Grab that sport weight cotton from your stash right now. You know the soft stuff you keep saving for a “special” project? This is it. Fifteen cheerful blue daisy granny squares join into a pretty table runner with a soft lace border that curves into gentle ovals at the ends. The petals pop, the mint frames them nicely, and the whole thing looks way fancier than the time it takes once you get the hang of it.
This design feels fresh for spring and summer tables. Yellow centers sit inside soft blue petals, then mint green turns the circle into a square, and light gray finishes the frame plus all the lace. The flat join method creates clean grid lines that look intentional, not messy. At about 14 inches wide by 24 inches long after blocking, it fits dining tables, console tables, or dressers without taking over the whole surface.
Honest talk: this is intermediate. You need to feel okay working in the round and building granny squares. The daisy petal cluster is a special stitch, so practice it a couple times first. If you’ve made a few regular granny squares already, you can level up here without too much drama.
Why This Runner Looks So Good on Any Table
The color mix just works. Bright yellow centers, soft blue petals, mint green frames, and light gray borders create a fresh look that never feels too loud. It brings spring energy without shouting about it.
What I love most is the lace edging. It turns a plain grid of squares into something softer and more organic. Extra shells at the short ends push the shape into those gentle ovals you see in the finished piece. Straight sides stay clean while the ends curve just enough to look elegant.
Size-wise, it’s practical. Substantial enough to make a statement yet small enough that it won’t fight with your centerpiece or place settings. IMO, it also works great as a dresser scarf or console accent if you want the daisy vibes in more than one room.
Materials You Actually Need
You need sport weight yarn (CYCA #2 / Fine), preferably 100% cotton or a cotton blend. Plan on about 800 yards total.
Break it down by color:
- Color A (Yellow): about 80 yards for the daisy centers
- Color B (Blue): about 300 yards for the petals
- Color C (Mint Green): about 150 yards for the square transition round
- Color D (Light Gray): about 270 yards for the outer frames and all the edging
Hook: US B-1 / 2.25 mm or US C-2 / 2.75 mm. Adjust until you hit gauge.
Notions:
- Yarn needle for weaving ends
- Scissors
- Blocking mats and rust-proof pins
- Stitch markers (optional but helpful for the lace)
- Spray bottle with water for wet blocking
Yarn Ideas That Work Well
Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK on a smaller hook works great. One ball each of Buttercup Yellow, Cornflower Blue, Spearmint, and two balls of Misty Grey should cover it.
Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in DK is another solid pick. It’s smooth, durable, and machine washable. Look for Goldenrod, Cornflower, Mint, and Silver.
Scheepjes Catona in 4-ply used with a slightly larger hook gives amazing stitch definition so those daisy petals really show.
Skip acrylic for this one. Cotton or linen blends block flat and keep the crisp drape you want in a table runner.
Gauge and Why It Matters
With the recommended hook you want 18 dc = 4 inches (10 cm) measured over a flat double crochet swatch after blocking.
One finished granny square through Round 4 should measure about 3.75 inches by 3.75 inches after joining and blocking.
Gauge matters here. If your squares run bigger than 3.75 inches, drop a hook size. If they come out smaller, go up a size. Fifteen squares at the right gauge in a 3-by-5 grid give you the finished size listed.
Skill Level and Time Estimate
Skill Level: Intermediate
You need comfort working in the round, building granny squares, joining motifs, and working a multi-round lace edging. The daisy petal stitch uses clusters around a center ring. Practice that special stitch a few times before you dive into all fifteen squares.
Time Estimate: 18 to 26 hours total
Once the petal rhythm clicks, each square takes about 30 to 45 minutes. Assembly and edging add another 5 to 8 hours. Not a weekend sprint, but totally doable in steady evenings.
Abbreviations and Special Stitches
Here’s the quick list so you can refer back without flipping around:
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
tr = treble crochet
ch-sp = chain space
sk = skip
yo = yarn over
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
Daisy Petal Cluster (DPC)
This creates one puff-like petal.
- Yarn over once.
- Insert hook into the designated stitch or space.
- Yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook).
- Yarn over once more.
- Insert hook into the same stitch or space again.
- Yarn over and pull up a loop (5 loops on hook).
- Yarn over and draw through all 5 loops. One DPC made.
- Chain 1 to lock the petal.
Note: The closing chain 1 does not count as a stitch. The DPC itself counts as 1 stitch.
3-Double Crochet Cluster (3dc-cl)
- Yarn over, insert hook into the space or stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops only (3 loops on hook).
- Yarn over, insert hook into the same space, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops only (4 loops on hook).
- Yarn over, insert hook into the same space, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops only (5 loops on hook).
- Yarn over and draw through all 5 loops. 3dc-cl made.
Shell Stitch
5 dc worked into the same stitch or space. Creates a fan shape used in the lace edging.
V-Stitch
(dc, ch 2, dc) worked into the same stitch or space.
Picot
Ch 3, sl st into the first ch made. Creates a small decorative bump.
Joining Slip Stitch (JSS)
Used for the flat join. Insert hook through the corresponding stitch of the adjacent square (both loops), draw up a loop, and complete as a slip stitch.
Pattern Notes Before You Start
- Each granny square works entirely in the round, starting with a magic ring or a foundation chain ring.
- All rounds face the right side unless noted. Do not turn between rounds of one square.
- Color changes happen at the joining slip stitch at the end of each round. Fasten off the old color and join the new one with a standing stitch or slip stitch.
- Make 15 identical granny squares. Arrange them in a 3-wide by 5-long grid.
- Squares join with the flat slip stitch method on Round 5 (the gray joining round).
- Weave in ends as you finish each square. Do not leave them all for the end—color changes pile up fast.
- Prefer a chain ring? Ch 4 and sl st to the first ch to form the ring, then work Round 1 into it.
Granny Square Instructions (Make 15)
Each square uses Color A (Yellow) for Round 1, Color B (Blue) for Rounds 2 and 3, Color C (Mint Green) for Round 4, and Color D (Gray) for the outer frame.
Round 1 (Color A, Yellow)
Make a magic ring.
Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch).
Work 12 DPC into the ring, each followed by ch 1.
After the 12th DPC, sl st to the top of the first DPC to close.
Do not fasten off yet. Pull the magic ring tail to close the center.
Stitch count: 12 DPC with 12 ch-1 spaces between them.
Round 2 (Color B, Blue)
Fasten off Color A. Join Color B with a sl st into any ch-1 space between DPC petals.
Work a standing dc or ch 3 (counts as first dc) into the same ch-1 space.
Work 1 dc into the same ch-1 space. (2 dc in first space.)
*Work 2 dc into the next ch-1 space. Rep from * around all 12 ch-1 spaces.
Sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3 (or first standing dc) to close.
Stitch count: 24 dc (2 dc in each of 12 ch-1 spaces)
Round 3 (Color B, Blue)
Do not fasten off. Continue in Color B.
Ch 1. Sl st into the space between the first pair of dc from Round 2 (the gap between any 2-dc group and the next).
There are 12 between-group spaces and 12 on-top-of-group positions. Work as follows:
(In the between-group space: sc 1, ch 2, sc 1). This forms a small arch between petals.
(In the next 2 dc of the group on top: DPC into the first dc, ch 1, DPC into the second dc, ch 1). These two DPCs form a wider petal pair.
Rep from * around all 12 between-group spaces and 12 groups.
Sl st to the first sc to close.
Stitch count: 12 sc, 12 ch-2 arches, 24 DPC (2 per group), 24 ch-1 spaces
Checkpoint: After Round 3 your daisy should look circular, about 1.75 to 2 inches across, with a yellow center ringed by blue petals.
Round 4 (Color C, Mint Green)
Fasten off Color B. Join Color C with a standing dc or sl st + ch 3 into any ch-2 arch from Round 3.
This round turns the circle into a square. The 12 ch-2 arches divide into 4 groups of 3. The middle arch of each group gets the corner treatment.
Starting position: standing dc into the first ch-2 arch (a side arch, not a corner).
Into starting arch: (dc, ch 1, dc).
Into next ch-2 arch (corner): (3dc-cl, ch 2, 3dc-cl).
Into next ch-2 arch: (dc, ch 1, dc).
You’ve completed one full side. Rep the 3-arch sequence (side, corner, side) for the remaining 3 sides:
(dc, ch 1, dc) into next arch. (3dc-cl, ch 2, 3dc-cl) into next arch (corner). (dc, ch 1, dc) into next arch.
Rep from * 3 more times.
Sl st to the top of the beginning standing dc (or ch-3) to close.
Stitch count: 4 ch-2 corner spaces, 4 ch-1 side spaces, 16 dc, 8 cluster stitches.
Round 5 (Color D, Gray)
Fasten off Color C. Join Color D into any corner ch-2 space.
Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Into the same corner ch-2 sp: (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc).
Along the side to the next corner:
Dc into each dc across (4 dc).
Dc into the ch-1 side space (1 dc).
Dc into each dc across (4 dc).
(So 9 dc total between corners.)
Into corner ch-2 sp: (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc).
Rep from * around all 4 sides and 4 corners.
Sl st to top of beginning ch-3 to close.
Stitch count per side between corners: 9 dc
Stitch count per corner: (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc)
Total: 60 dc + 4 ch-2 corner spaces
Fasten off. Weave in all ends.
Checkpoint: Each finished square should measure 3.5 to 3.75 inches edge to edge. All 15 need to match within 1/8 inch. Block individual squares if needed before joining.
Joining the Squares
Arrange the 15 squares in a 3-column by 5-row grid, right sides facing up. Keep the grain (corner ch-2 spaces pointing the same way) consistent across every square.
Flat Slip Stitch Join Method
Hold 2 squares with wrong sides together so right sides face outward.
Join Color D to the corner ch-2 space of both squares.
Along the shared edge, sl st through corresponding stitches of both squares:
Sl st into corner ch-2 sp of both.
Sl st into each dc across (9 dc per side).
Sl st into the next corner ch-2 sp of both.
This creates a visible flat seam ridge on the right side that forms the grid lines.
Join Order
Step 1: Join the 3 squares of Row 1 along their shared vertical seams (2 joins).
Step 2: Repeat for Rows 2, 3, 4, and 5 (10 vertical joins total).
Step 3: Join Row 1 to Row 2 along the full-width horizontal seam. At intersections, sl st through the junction point and keep going.
Step 4: Continue joining the remaining horizontal seams (4 horizontal joins total).
Total joins: 14 seam joins.
At each 4-way intersection where four corners meet, insert the hook through all 4 corner ch-2 spaces at once and work 1 sl st. This keeps holes from forming.
Stitch count along each joined edge: 11 sl sts (1 at each corner ch-2 + 9 across the dc stitches).
Checkpoint: After all joins the assembled runner should measure about 11.25 inches wide by 18.75 inches long before edging. Lay it flat and check that nothing puckers or ripples.
Lace Edging
Work the lace edging in Color D (Gray) around the entire outer perimeter in 4 rounds.
Edging Round 1 (Color D, Right Side Facing)
Join Color D into any outer corner ch-2 space.
Ch 1. Sc into the same space.
Work sc evenly around:
Long sides: Sc into each dc across each square’s outer edge. Sc into each join point. At corner ch-2 spaces that fall on the straight side (not the runner’s own corners): work (sc, ch 1, sc).
At the 4 outer corners of the runner: work (sc, ch 2, sc) into the corner ch-2 space.
Short ends: Work the same as the long sides across the 3 squares.
Sl st to the first sc to close.
Stitch count: 188 sc + 8 ch-1 sp + 4 ch-2 corner sp
Edging Round 2 (Color D, Right Side Facing)
Sl st to move into the next sc. Ch 3 (counts as first dc).
Along straight sections: *(Sk 2 sc, shell of 5 dc into next sc, sk 2 sc, sc into next sc). Rep from * across, adjusting the final repeat if needed to land at the corner.
At each of the 4 corner ch-2 spaces: (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into the ch-2 space. This double-fan starts rounding the short ends.
At the short ends: Work the shell pattern, but add an extra shell at the midpoint of each short end. At the center sc of each short end, work (5 dc, ch 1, 5 dc) into the same center sc instead of a standard shell.
Sl st to the top of beginning ch-3 to close.
If the shell repeat does not divide evenly, work sc into the extra stitches so the shells stay symmetrical.
Edging Round 3 (Color D, Right Side Facing)
Sl st to move into the center dc of the first shell from Round 2.
Ch 1. Sc into the same st.
*Ch 4. Sc into the center dc of the next shell. Rep from * across straight sections.
Into each sc from Round 2 (between shells): ch 4, sc into the sc.
At corners: work (sc, ch 4, sc, ch 4, sc) into the ch-2 corner spaces from Round 2.
At the special double-shell at short-end centers: work (sc, ch 5, sc) into the ch-1 space between the two 5-dc groups.
Sl st to first sc to close.
Edging Round 4 (Color D, Right Side Facing)
This is the final scallop and picot round.
Sl st into first ch-4 arch.
Ch 1. Into each ch-4 arch: (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc). This makes a scallop shell.
Into each ch-5 arch at the oval end centers: (sc, hdc, 4 dc, hdc, sc). Slightly larger scallop.
At each corner ch-4 arch: work (sc, hdc, 3 dc, picot, 2 dc, hdc, sc) to keep the rounding flat.
Sl st to first sc to close. Fasten off. Weave in all ends.
Checkpoint: After the 4-round lace edging the runner should measure about 14 inches wide by 24 inches long with rounded oval ends and straight long sides.
Size Customization Tips
Want it longer? Add squares in multiples of 1 row (3 extra squares per row). Each added row adds about 3.75 inches before edging. Increase Color B and Color D by roughly 80 yards per extra row.
Want it wider? Add squares in multiples of 1 column (5 extra squares per column). Each added column adds about 3.75 inches. Increase Color B and Color D by about 65 yards per extra column.
Prefer a round doily? Arrange 9 squares in a 3-by-3 grid and work the edging with extra corner shells at all 4 corners. Total yarn drops to about 540 yards.
To change overall size without changing the grid, switch yarn weight. DK weight at matching gauge makes a runner about 20% larger. Fingering/4-ply makes it 15–20% smaller.
Finishing and Blocking
Blocking makes a huge difference. It opens the lace and evens out the squares.
- Weave in every remaining end on the wrong side.
- Fill a basin with cool water and mild wool wash or plain water.
- Submerge the runner and gently press out air. Do not wring or twist.
- Lift it out and press between two clean towels to remove excess water.
- Lay the runner on blocking mats wrong side up.
- Pin it to the finished size: 14 inches wide, 24 inches long. Place pins every 0.5 inch along the scallops, pulling each peak outward.
- At the short oval ends, add extra pins in a gentle curve.
- Let it dry completely before removing pins (usually 12–24 hours).
Care Instructions
Hand wash in cool water with mild detergent. If you used 100% cotton, you can machine wash on delicate in a mesh bag. Skip hot water—it can shrink cotton. Lay flat to dry. Do not tumble dry. If needed, press with a cool iron through a damp cloth to restore the blocked shape.
Related Articles:
- Coral Camellia Net Market Bag Free Crochet Pattern
- Navy Blue Nautical Bow Handbag Free Crochet Pattern
- Charcoal Gray Modern Clutch Free Crochet Pattern
Final Thoughts
This Blue Daisy Granny Square Table Runner looks impressive, yet it’s really just the same square repeated fifteen times. Once the petal clusters feel natural, you’ll knock them out while streaming your favorite show. The finished piece makes a thoughtful gift for housewarmings, weddings, or Mother’s Day—or keep it and let your own table enjoy the upgrade.
Happy stitching. Your table is about to look a whole lot prettier.
