Forget plain market bags. This Daisy Garden Tote turns twenty-five puffy three-dimensional daisy squares into a cheerful front panel that feels like carrying a little garden on your arm. Pair it with a clean mint back and simple gusset, add picot edging and firm handles, and you end up with a roomy tote that works for groceries, beach days, or hauling your current WIP. Every square is small and portable, so you can stitch a few while the TV plays in the background.
About This Crochet Pattern
This Daisy Garden Tote sits firmly in the confident beginner zone. If you handle basic stitches in the round and feel okay joining granny squares, you can make this bag. Construction breaks into clear chunks: crochet the daisy squares, join them into a front panel, work the plain back and gusset, then assemble everything.
Finished size lands at 12 inches wide by 13 inches tall by 3 inches deep. Expect 12 to 16 hours total. The pattern uses worsted weight cotton for crisp stitch definition and handles that actually hold their shape. Cotton also washes well, so this tote earns its keep in everyday life.
Materials and Tools You Will Need
Gather these before you start:
- Mint green (main color/MC): about 330 yards / 300 meters
- White (petals/CW): about 90 yards / 82 meters
- Golden yellow (centers/CY): about 45 yards / 41 meters
- Sage green (square edging/CG): about 120 yards / 110 meters
Solid yarn picks include Lily Sugar’n Cream, Paintbox Yarns Cotton Aran, or Cascade Ultra Pima. Grab a 4.0 mm (US G/6) hook, tapestry needle, stitch markers, and scissors. Optional cotton cord about 1 inch wide gives the handles extra firmness if you want zero stretch.
Gauge Information
Check gauge early so your finished tote matches the numbers.
One finished daisy square measures about 2.4 inches / 6 cm across with a 4.0 mm hook. For the solid fabric on the back and gusset, 16 stitches by 12 rows equals 4 inches / 10 cm in half double crochet.
Squares running large? Drop a hook size. Running small? Go up. Nail the square size and the rest follows.
Abbreviations and Terms
This pattern sticks to US crochet terms. Here’s the full list:
- ch = chain
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- tr = treble crochet
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp = space
- rep = repeat
- MC/CW/CY/CG = main color / contrast white / contrast yellow / contrast green
UK crocheters: sc equals dc, hdc equals htr, dc equals tr, tr equals dtr. Hook size and gauge stay the same.
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
Read these once so you avoid head-scratching later.
- The front panel uses 25 daisy squares joined in a 5-across by 5-down grid.
- The back panel and side/base gusset work as plain half double crochet panels for structure.
- Work the daisy petals slightly loosely so they pop up nicely.
- The turning ch-2 at the start of an hdc row does not count as a stitch unless noted.
- Every round and row ends with its stitch count. Check as you go.
Special Stitches Explained
A few techniques show up often. Here’s how each one works.
Magic Ring
Make an adjustable loop for the yellow center. Work your stitches into the ring, then pull the tail tight to close the hole completely. Neat center, zero gap.
Daisy Petal
This creates one raised petal worked entirely into one stitch of the yellow center: Ch 3, (tr, ch 1, tr) in same st, ch 3, sl st in same st. The chains and trebles form a puffy petal that stands up from the background.
Picot
Tiny decorative bobble for the top edge: Ch 3, sl st into the first of those 3 chains.
Invisible Join
Finish a round seamlessly. Cut yarn leaving a tail, thread the needle, and sew under the V of the first stitch. Smooth, invisible closure.
Want fluffier daisies? Use a hook half a size smaller for the white petal round only. The tighter petals stand up taller against the green square. IMO, that little tweak makes a big visual difference.
How to Crochet the Daisy Square (Make 25)
Each square runs in three color stages: yellow center, raised white petals, then sage green frame. These work up fast and travel well in a project bag.
Round 1: Yellow Center
With CY (golden yellow), make a magic ring. Ch 1. Work 8 sc into the ring. Pull tight. Join with sl st to the first sc.
(8 sc)
Round 2: White Petals
Join CW (white) to any sc with a sl st. In each sc around, work one petal: Ch 3, (tr, ch 1, tr) in same sc, ch 3, sl st in same sc, sl st in next sc. Repeat in all 8 stitches. Fasten off CW.
(8 petals)
Round 3: Sage Square Begins
Join CG (sage green) behind the petals in any petal tip (the ch-1 space). Corner: (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in this petal tip. Ch 1. Side: 2 dc in next petal tip. Ch 1. Repeat [corner, ch 1, side, ch 1] around all 8 petals.
(24 dc, 4 corner spaces)
Round 4: Complete the Square
Join CG in any corner ch-2 space. In each corner: (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc). Along each side: ch 1, 2 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, 2 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1. Continue around. Join with sl st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for joining.
(32 dc, 4 corners)
Make 25 squares total. Lay them out in a 5 by 5 grid before joining so the petals sit evenly.
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Joining the Front Panel
Join the 25 squares into a 5 by 5 panel using the whip stitch method through back loops only. This keeps the seams soft and flat so the daisies stay raised and visible.
- Place two squares right sides together. Using CG and a tapestry needle, whip stitch through the back loops across one edge, matching stitch for stitch (about 14 stitches per side).
- Join 5 squares side by side into a horizontal row. Make 5 rows total.
- Lay the 5 rows in order and whip stitch them together, lining up every corner so the grid stays square.
- Weave in all join tails on the wrong side as you go.
Prefer no seams? Join as you go on Round 4 by slip stitching corner ch-2 spaces to the neighboring square.
Crocheting the Back Panel
The back is a simple rectangle of half double crochet that matches the size of your joined daisy front.
With MC (mint green), chain 49. Row 1: Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Turn. (48 hdc). Rows 2 through 36: Ch 2, hdc in each st across. Turn. Fasten off. Your panel should measure about 12 inches by 12 inches.
Crocheting the Gusset
One long strip wraps up one side, across the bottom, and down the other side. This gives the tote its depth.
With MC, chain 13. Row 1: Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Turn. (12 hdc). Rows 2 through 108: Ch 2, hdc in each st across. Turn. Fasten off. The strip measures roughly 3 inches wide by 36 inches long.
Assembling the Bag Body
This is the satisfying part where everything clicks.
- With MC and tapestry needle, pin the gusset around the front panel. Start at one top corner, go down one side, across the base, and up the other side.
- Whip stitch the gusset to the front panel, easing gently around the two base corners.
- Attach the back panel to the open edge of the gusset the same way, leaving the top open.
Take your time at the corners. A little patience here creates clean, professional seams.
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Adding the Top Edging
The top edging finishes the bag with a pretty picot scallop border.
Round 1: Join MC at a top side seam. Work an even round of sc around the entire top opening, keeping the count a multiple of 4. Join with sl st. (approximately 120 sc).
Round 2 (Picot Scallop): Ch 1. *Sc in next 3 sc, picot (ch 3, sl st in first ch).* Repeat around. Join and fasten off. (30 picots).
Making the Handles (Make 2)
Work the handles as firm tubes. For extra body that prevents stretching, crochet around a length of cotton cord if you like.
With MC, chain 6. Sl st to first ch to form a ring. Round 1: Sc in each ch around. (6 sc). Rounds 2 through 110: Sc in each st around in a continuous spiral. Do not join. The tube should measure about 22 inches / 56 cm. Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Attaching the Handles
Position one handle’s ends on the front of the bag, about 3 inches in from each side seam, just below the picot edge. Push each end through to the inside and stitch firmly through several stitches. Reinforce with a few extra passes. Repeat with the second handle on the back so both line up when the bag hangs.
Finishing Your Tote
Almost done. These last steps give the bag a polished look.
- Weave in every remaining end on the wrong side and trim closely.
- Turn the bag inside out and gently steam block the seams flat. Avoid pressing directly on the raised daisies.
- Reshape the base into a flat rectangle and let dry fully.
- Optional: Cut a piece of plastic canvas to fit the base for a firmer bottom.
Care Instructions
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap. Do not wring. Press out water by rolling in a towel, then lay flat to dry. Reshape as it dries. Keep away from high heat and direct sunlight to protect those bright colors.
Customizing Your Size
This pattern flexes easily because it builds from modular squares and plain panels.
- Smaller tote or handbag: Join a 4 by 4 grid (16 squares). Shorten the back panel to 38 hdc wide and the gusset to about 28 inches.
- Larger beach bag: Use a 6 by 6 grid (36 squares). Widen the back panel to 58 hdc and lengthen the gusset to roughly 44 inches.
- Taller bag: Add extra plain hdc rows in MC between the daisy panel and the top edging.
Swap the mint for soft gray or dusty rose if you want a different vibe. The structure stays the same; the personality is all yours.
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FAQ’s
Can I use acrylic yarn instead of cotton?
You can, but the bag will drape more and the handles may stretch over time. Cotton gives better structure and stitch definition. If acrylic is what you have on hand, go for it and consider adding the plastic canvas base plus cord inside the handles.
How do I keep the daisy petals from flattening?
Work the white petal round slightly loosely and use a smaller hook if you want extra height. Avoid heavy blocking on the petals themselves. Steam the seams only and let the daisies stay raised.
Is the magic ring necessary?
It gives the cleanest center with no hole. If you prefer, start with a chain-2 and work the 8 sc into the first chain, then pull tight. Both methods work; the magic ring just looks neater.
What if my front panel ends up a different size than the back?
Check gauge on the squares early. If the panel still varies, add or remove a few hdc rows on the back panel until the edges match. A slight difference disappears once you sew the gusset on.
Can I line the tote?
Absolutely. Cut fabric to fit the finished dimensions, sew a simple bag shape, and hand-stitch it inside. Add a pocket while you’re at it for keys or phone.
How long should the handles be for a longer drop?
Work more rounds on the tube. Every extra 10 rounds adds roughly 2 inches of length. Test the drop against your body before sewing them on permanently.
Final Thoughts
There you go—a bright, practical Daisy Garden Tote that actually gets used and always draws compliments. Grab your cotton, start those little yellow centers, and watch the garden grow square by square. Once the first few daisies sit finished, the rest of the project moves with satisfying speed. Happy stitching.
