This lavender butterfly baby dress is pure magic on a hook. One look at those lace wings and the soft A-line skirt, and you know it is the kind of piece that makes people stop and stare. I designed it so the big butterfly bodice works separately from the skirt, which keeps the whole project from feeling overwhelming. Ready to make an heirloom that looks boutique-level but sits right in your hands?
What Makes This Dress Special
The dress features a wide A-line skirt worked flat from the waist down, a large butterfly motif that forms the entire front bodice, and delicate scallop lace edging. Small butterfly appliques add extra charm along the hem. Pearl button closures run up the center back so dressing a wriggly baby stays easy.
Skill level sits at advanced beginner to intermediate. If you know the basic stitches and can follow a pattern carefully, you can make this. Time estimate runs 14 to 20 hours for experienced makers. First-timers should plan on 25 to 30 hours. No rush. Enjoy the process.
The modular construction is the real win here. You work each piece separately and assemble everything at the end. That approach makes the project far less intimidating than it looks at first glance.
Finished Measurements
This pattern fits size 6 to 12 months:
- Chest circumference (laid flat, doubled): approximately 18 inches / 46 cm
- Dress length from shoulder to hem: approximately 14 inches / 35.5 cm
- Skirt length from waist to hem: approximately 9 inches / 23 cm
- Bodice/yoke height: approximately 5 inches / 12.5 cm
Check your gauge early. Cotton yarn can shift a bit, and the skirt circumference depends on accurate sizing.
Materials You Will Need
Yarn: Worsted weight (weight category 4), 100% cotton or cotton-acrylic blend. You need approximately 400 yards / 366 meters total in a single lavender color.
Lily Sugar n Cream works beautifully (95 yards per 2.5 oz ball). Plan on about 5 balls. Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton is another solid choice (roughly 3 balls). Any smooth worsted weight that hits gauge will do. Skip fuzzy or textured yarns. The lace details need clean definition.
Hook: US size G-6 / 4.0 mm for all main sections. You may drop to US size F-5 / 3.75 mm for the small butterfly appliques if you want them a touch firmer.
Notions:
- Yarn needle for seaming and weaving ends
- Stitch markers (at least 6 locking style)
- Small pearl buttons, 4 to 6, approximately 8 mm diameter
- Pearl beads, approximately 8 to 12, 6 mm diameter (optional)
- Beading needle and thread to match yarn
- Sewing pins for blocking
- Blocking mat or padded surface
- Spray bottle or damp towels for wet blocking
- Scissors
- Ruler or tape measure
Gauge
With US G-6 / 4.0 mm hook and worsted weight cotton:
16 hdc x 12 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm worked flat in half double crochet (hdc). The turning chain counts as the first hdc.
Please check your gauge before beginning. If your swatch measures larger, go down one hook size. If smaller, go up one size. For the lace bodice sections, one shell (5 dc into same stitch) measures approximately 1 inch / 2.5 cm across and 0.5 inch / 1.25 cm tall.
Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions
Here is every abbreviation you will meet, explained in plain English:
- ch = chain: wrap yarn over hook and pull through the loop on your hook
- sl st = slip stitch: insert hook, yarn over, pull through stitch AND the loop on hook in one motion
- sc = single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops
- hdc = half double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 3 loops
- dc = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops
- tr = treble crochet: yarn over twice before inserting hook
- yo = yarn over: wrap the yarn over your hook
- sp = space
- ch-sp = chain space: the gap created by chain stitches in a previous row
- sk = skip: pass over the indicated stitch without working into it
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- beg = beginning
- rep = repeat
- rem = remaining
- RS = right side: the public-facing side of your work
- WS = wrong side: the inside of your work
- PM = place marker
- inc = increase: work 2 stitches into same stitch
- dec = decrease
- hdc2tog = half double crochet 2 together (decrease): yo, insert hook in next st, pull up loop (3 loops on hook), yo, insert hook in following st, pull up loop (5 loops on hook), yo, pull through all 5 loops
- dc2tog = double crochet 2 together (decrease)
- t-ch = turning chain
Special Stitches
These create the pretty lace effects:
- Shell Stitch: Work 5 double crochet (dc) all into the same stitch or space. This makes a lovely fan shape. When the pattern says “shell in next sp,” insert your hook into the chain space and complete all 5 dc there.
- V-Stitch: Work (dc, ch 2, dc) all into the same stitch or space. This forms a V with a chain-2 space in the center.
- Picot: Ch 3, slip stitch into the first of those 3 chains. A small decorative loop that adds polish to edgings.
- Puff Stitch: (Yo, insert hook in stitch, pull up a loop to height of a dc) 4 times in the same stitch, yo, pull through all 9 loops on hook, ch 1 to lock. Creates a raised oval bubble perfect for the butterfly body.
- Scallop Edging: Working along a foundation edge, sc in first st, sk 2 sts, (shell in next st, sk 2 sts, sc in next st) repeat across.
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
Read these first. They save headaches later.
- The skirt is worked flat (back and forth in rows) beginning from the waist and expanding outward to the hem.
- The dress has a center back opening for easy dressing. Buttons and button loops close the back.
- The bodice butterfly is worked as a separate flat piece, then overlaid onto the upper skirt and seamed at the sides and waist.
- The upper butterfly wings extend above the bodice panel to form the shoulder straps. They do not connect at the shoulders but frame the neckline on each side.
- All turning chains are noted. The t-ch at the beginning of an hdc row counts as 1 hdc unless the pattern says otherwise.
- Stitch counts in parentheses at the end of each row show total working stitches.
- Right side is the public/outside face of the garment.
- Block all pieces before assembly. The lace bodice butterfly opens up dramatically when blocked wet.
- The small butterfly appliques are pinned in place before sewing so you can adjust their placement visually.
Step by Step Instructions
Section 1: The Skirt
The skirt works from the waist down. You start with a chain that forms the waist edge.
Foundation: ch 74.
Row 1 (RS): hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across. (72 hdc) The turning chain counts as 1 hdc here and throughout unless noted.
Row 2 (WS): ch 2, turn. hdc in each st across. (72 hdc)
Row 3 (RS): ch 2, turn. hdc in first 8 sts, inc in next st, (hdc in next 8 sts, inc in next st) 7 times. Check: 8 increases added. (80 hdc)
Row 4 (WS): ch 2, turn. hdc in each st across. (80 hdc)
Row 5 (RS): ch 2, turn. hdc in first 9 sts, inc in next st, (hdc in next 9 sts, inc in next st) 7 times. 8 increases. (88 hdc)
Row 6 (WS): ch 2, turn. hdc in each st across. (88 hdc)
Row 7 (RS): ch 2, turn. hdc in first 10 sts, inc in next st, (hdc in next 10 sts, inc in next st) 7 times. 8 increases. (96 hdc)
Row 8 (WS): ch 2, turn. hdc in each st across. (96 hdc)
Row 9 (RS): ch 2, turn. hdc in first 11 sts, inc in next st, (hdc in next 11 sts, inc in next st) 7 times. 8 increases. (104 hdc)
Row 10 (WS): ch 2, turn. hdc in each st across. (104 hdc)
Row 11 (RS): ch 2, turn. hdc in first 12 sts, inc in next st, (hdc in next 12 sts, inc in next st) 7 times. 8 increases. (112 hdc)
Row 12 (WS): ch 2, turn. hdc in each st across. (112 hdc)
Row 13 (RS): ch 2, turn. hdc in first 13 sts, inc in next st, (hdc in next 13 sts, inc in next st) 7 times. 8 increases. (120 hdc)
Row 14 (WS): ch 2, turn. hdc in each st across. (120 hdc)
Row 15 (RS): ch 2, turn. hdc in first 14 sts, inc in next st, (hdc in next 14 sts, inc in next st) 7 times. 8 increases. (128 hdc)
Row 16 (WS): ch 2, turn. hdc in each st across. (128 hdc)
Row 17 (RS): ch 2, turn. hdc in first 15 sts, inc in next st, (hdc in next 15 sts, inc in next st) 7 times. 8 increases. (136 hdc)
Row 18 (WS): ch 2, turn. hdc in each st across. (136 hdc)
Row 19 (RS): ch 2, turn. hdc in first 16 sts, inc in next st, (hdc in next 16 sts, inc in next st) 7 times. 8 increases. (144 hdc)
Row 20 (WS): ch 2, turn. hdc in each st across. (144 hdc)
Row 21 (RS): ch 2, turn. hdc in first 17 sts, inc in next st, (hdc in next 17 sts, inc in next st) 7 times. 8 increases. (152 hdc)
Row 22 (WS): ch 2, turn. hdc in each st across. (152 hdc)
Row 23 (RS): ch 2, turn. hdc in first 18 sts, inc in next st, (hdc in next 18 sts, inc in next st) 7 times. 8 increases. (160 hdc)
Row 24 (WS): ch 2, turn. hdc in each st across. (160 hdc)
Do not fasten off. You will return to work the hem edging after assembly.
CHECKPOINT: After Row 24, your skirt should measure approximately 8 inches / 20 cm from foundation chain to current row edge. Width at Row 24 should be approximately 16 to 17 inches / 40.5 to 43 cm laid flat.
Set the skirt aside. Fasten off if you prefer, leaving a 12-inch tail for joining later.
Section 2: The Bodice Butterfly
This is the star of the show. Four wing sections worked flat, joined at a center body column, then edged. The butterfly sits on the front bodice with the upper wings extending up to form the straps.
Bodice Center Body Column
Ch 7.
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (6 sc)
Rows 2 through 16: ch 1, turn. sc in each st across. (6 sc)
After Row 16 you have a narrow rectangle approximately 5.5 inches / 14 cm tall. This is the butterfly body. Fasten off and set aside.
Upper Right Wing
Foundation: Ch 37.
Row 1 (RS): dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in next 2 ch, (sk 2 ch, shell in next ch, sk 2 ch, dc in next 3 ch) 4 times. (4 shells, 5 groups of 3 dc) Total working sts: (35 dc)
Row 2 (WS): ch 3, turn. dc in each dc and shell st across, working 3 dc across each shell top (compress to 3 dc on the return row to maintain shape). (35 dc)
Row 3 (RS): ch 3, turn. dc in first 2 dc, (sk 2 dc, shell in next dc, sk 2 dc, dc in next 3 dc) across, end dc in last 2 dc. (4 shells) (35 dc)
Row 4 (WS): rep Row 2. (35 dc)
Row 5 (RS): ch 3, turn. dc2tog over first 2 sts (decrease at wing tip edge), dc in next dc, (sk 2, shell in next dc, sk 2, dc in next 3 dc) 3 times, sk 2, shell in next dc, sk 2, dc in next 2 dc, dc2tog over last 2 sts. (33 dc, 4 shells inside)
Row 6 (WS): ch 3, turn. dc2tog, dc across compressing shells to 3 dc, dc2tog at end. (31 dc)
Row 7 (RS): ch 3, turn. dc2tog, dc in next dc, (sk 2, shell in next dc, sk 2, dc in next 3 dc) across adjusting to fit 31 sts with 3 shells, dc2tog at end. (29 dc)
Row 8 (WS): ch 3, turn. dc2tog, dc across (compress shells), dc2tog. (27 dc)
Row 9 (RS): ch 3, turn. dc2tog, dc in next dc, (sk 2, shell in next dc, sk 2, dc in next 2 dc) across for 2 shells, end dc2tog. (25 dc)
Row 10 (WS): ch 3, turn. dc2tog, dc across, dc2tog. (23 dc)
Row 11 (RS): ch 3, turn. dc2tog, (sk 2, shell in next dc, sk 2, dc in next 3 dc) once, (sk 1, shell in next dc, sk 1, dc in next 2 dc) once, dc2tog. (21 dc, 2 shells)
Row 12 (WS): ch 3, turn. dc2tog, dc across, dc2tog. (19 dc)
Do not fasten off. Proceed to wing edging.
Upper Left Wing
Work exactly as Upper Right Wing. The mirroring happens during assembly when you place the left wing on the opposite side of the body column.
Lower Right Wing
Foundation: Ch 25.
Row 1 (RS): dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in next dc, (sk 2 ch, shell in next ch, sk 2 ch, dc in next 3 ch) twice, sk 2 ch, shell in next ch, sk 2 ch, dc in last 2 ch. (3 shells, 4 anchor groups) (24 dc total)
Row 2 (WS): ch 3, turn. dc2tog, dc across compressing shells to 3 dc, dc2tog. (22 dc)
Row 3 (RS): ch 3, turn. dc2tog, dc in next dc, (sk 2, shell in next dc, sk 2, dc in next 3 dc) twice, dc2tog. (20 dc, 2 shells)
Row 4 (WS): ch 3, turn. dc2tog, dc across, dc2tog. (18 dc)
Row 5 (RS): ch 3, turn. dc2tog, dc in next dc, (sk 2, shell in next dc, sk 2, dc in next 3 dc) once, sk 2, shell in next dc, dc2tog. (16 dc, 2 shells)
Row 6 (WS): ch 3, turn. dc2tog, dc across, dc2tog. (14 dc)
Row 7 (RS): ch 3, turn. dc2tog, sk 2, shell in next dc, sk 2, dc in next dc, shell in next dc, dc2tog. (12 dc, 2 shells)
Row 8 (WS): ch 3, turn. dc2tog, dc across, dc2tog. (10 dc)
Row 9 (RS): ch 3, turn. dc2tog, dc in next 6 dc, dc2tog. (8 dc)
Do not fasten off. Proceed to lower wing edging.
Lower Left Wing
Work as Lower Right Wing.
Wing Edging
All four wing pieces get the same scallop/shell edging before assembly.
With RS facing, join yarn at the corner of any wing at the lowest point of the piece.
Round 1 (edging): ch 1, sc evenly around all edges of the wing. Work 1 sc per dc post, 2 sc across each shell top, and 3 sc in each corner point. When you reach the flat base edge, work 1 sc per foundation chain stitch. Join with sl st to first sc. Adjust your count so it is divisible by 6. For the upper wing, aim for approximately 96 sc. For the lower wing, aim for approximately 60 sc.
Round 2 (scallop shell edging): ch 1, (sc in first sc, sk 2 sc, shell in next sc, sk 2 sc) around. Join with sl st to first sc.
Round 3 (picot finish, upper wings only): ch 1, sc in first st, (sc in each dc of shell, picot after 3rd dc of shell, sc in remaining shell dc, sc in sc between shells) around. Join and fasten off.
On lower wings, fasten off after Round 2 without the picot round.
Assembling the Butterfly Bodice
Lay all four wing pieces and the center body column on a flat surface.
Step 1: Position the body column vertically. The top 6 rows will sit above the wing attachment point. The bottom 4 rows extend below the lower wings.
Step 2: With yarn needle, whipstitch the inner straight edge of the Upper Right Wing to the right side of the body column, beginning at Row 4 of the column and ending at Row 14. (10 rows of attachment)
Step 3: Attach Upper Left Wing to left side of the column, mirroring Step 2.
Step 4: Attach Lower Right Wing to right side of the column, beginning at Row 10 of the column and ending at Row 16.
Step 5: Attach Lower Left Wing to left side of the column, mirroring Step 4.
Butterfly Body Detail
Using the puff stitch, work 3 to 5 puff stitches in a vertical line down the center of the body column, spacing them approximately 1 inch apart. If you want pearl beads, use a beading needle and thread to sew one 6 mm pearl bead between each puff stitch.
Section 3: Assembling Skirt and Bodice
Step 1: Lay the skirt flat on your blocking surface, RS facing up. The foundation chain is the waist edge (top). The Row 24 edge is the hem (bottom).
Step 2: Center the butterfly bodice on the front of the skirt, aligning the bottom of the body column with the waist edge. The lower wings should rest on the upper skirt front, approximately Row 2 to Row 6.
Step 3: Pin the butterfly bodice in place. The center body column should line up with the center front of the skirt.
Step 4: With yarn needle and matching yarn, whipstitch the bottom edge of the butterfly to the waist edge of the skirt. Work carefully so the seam stays invisible from the RS.
Step 5: The upper wings extend upward above the waist edge to form the shoulder straps. No extra seaming is needed at the upper wings.
Section 4: Waistband Finish
With RS facing, join yarn at the right back edge of the skirt at the waist.
Row 1: ch 1, sc evenly across the entire top (waist) edge, working 1 sc per foundation chain stitch, but skipping behind the butterfly bodice section. Work sc across the back. Total working sts across the back and two side sections: approximately (42 sc)
Row 2: ch 1, turn. sc in each sc across. (42 sc)
Do not fasten off.
Section 5: Back Opening and Button Loops
The dress has a center back opening from waist to shoulder.
Right Back Band
Row 1: With RS facing, join yarn at the top right back corner. ch 1, sc evenly down the right back edge, working approximately 2 sc per row. (40 sc)
Row 2: ch 1, turn. sc in each sc across. (40 sc)
Row 3 (button loops): ch 1, turn. sc in first 4 sc, (ch 3, sk 2 sc, sc in next 6 sc) 4 times, sc to end. 4 button loops created.
Row 4: ch 1, turn. sc in each sc and 3 sc in each ch-3 loop across.
Fasten off.
Left Back Band
Work Rows 1 and 2 as Right Back Band. On Row 3, work all sc with no button loops. Fasten off.
Sew buttons to left back band aligned with the button loops.
Section 6: Hem Scallop Edging
With RS facing, join yarn at the right back lower corner of the skirt.
Round 1: ch 1, sc in each hdc across the hem edge. (160 sc)
Note: 160 is not evenly divisible by 6. Work inc in 2 evenly spaced stitches to get (162 sc), which gives you 27 repeats.
Round 2 (scallop): (sc in first sc, sk 2 sc, shell in next sc, sk 2 sc) 27 times. Join. (27 shells, 27 sc)
Round 3 (picot shell caps): ch 1, (sc in first sc, sc in each of first 2 dc of shell, picot, sc in next dc of shell, picot, sc in last 2 dc of shell) around. Join. Fasten off.
Section 7: Small Butterfly Appliques
Make 5 small butterflies:
Magic ring or ch 4 joined to ring.
Round 1: ch 1, 8 sc in ring, join. (8 sc)
Round 2 (upper wings): ch 5, dc in same st, (dc, ch 2, dc, ch 5, dc) in next st, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next st, ch 5, sl st in same st. Fasten off leaving tail for seaming.
Round 2 (lower wings): Rejoin yarn at opposite side of ring. Ch 3, (dc, ch 2, dc) in same st, ch 3, sl st in next st. Ch 3, sl st in next st. (dc, ch 2, dc) in next st, ch 3, sl st in base ring. Fasten off.
Body: With yarn threaded on needle, wrap yarn 4 times around center ring and cinch. Attach pearl bead if desired.
Placement: Position 3 butterflies along the hem, evenly spaced, approximately 2 inches above the scallop edging. Position 1 small butterfly at the center of each lower wing of the bodice butterfly.
Using yarn needle and matching yarn, sew each applique flat against the skirt surface with small invisible stitches at each wing tip and body center.
Blocking Your Finished Dress
Blocking is essential. The lace bodice butterfly and wing lobes open up dramatically when blocked wet.
- Soak all pieces in lukewarm water for 15 to 20 minutes.
- Gently squeeze out excess water (do not wring).
- Lay flat on your blocking mat and pin to measurements.
- Pay special attention to the wing lobes, pinning each scallop point to open up the lace.
- Allow to dry completely before removing pins.
Tips for Success
Take your time with the butterfly wings. They look complicated, but if you work row by row and count your stitches, the shaping becomes clear.
Block before assembly. It is much easier to sew pieces together when they are blocked flat and relaxed.
Use locking stitch markers. Mark your increase positions on the skirt rows so you do not lose track.
Do not skip the gauge swatch. This dress needs accurate sizing, and cotton yarn can behave differently from acrylic.
Pin the appliques before sewing. Move them around until the placement looks balanced, then sew them down.
Related Articles:
- Peach Blossom Bow Crochet Vest Free Crochet Pattern
- Navy Anchor Nautical Baby Blanket Free Crochet Pattern
- Rapunzel Purple Princess Baby Dress Free Crochet Pattern
Final Thoughts
This baby dress creates a truly special garment. The simple skirt construction paired with intricate lace details gives you the best of both worlds. You get the calm, meditative rows of the skirt, then the excitement of building those beautiful butterfly wings.
Every baby shower needs a gift that makes everyone stop and ask, “You MADE that?” This dress is that gift. The modular construction means you can work on pieces in short sessions, then bring everything together at the end for a dramatic reveal. And when you finally sew that last butterfly applique in place and step back? That feeling is worth every stitch.
Happy hooking from the Sumara Patterns team. Tag us if you make one. We love seeing these come to life in your hands.
