You spotted this airy lace overlay top and thought it looked way too fancy for your hook, right? Those soft fan motifs, the floaty handkerchief hem, and the dreamy lavender shade make it look like boutique gold. But here’s the real talk: this piece is totally doable once you get the rhythm of the stitches. Grab your favorite DK yarn and let’s make something that turns heads without the stress.
What Makes This Overlay Top So Special
This flowing, boho-style crochet lace overlay sits perfectly over a simple cami. It features repeating fan motifs that start at the bust and cascade down in one continuous piece. The openwork fabric drapes soft and pretty, while the hem falls into dramatic pointed corners that move when you walk.
You work two identical flat panels from the top down. Start with a foundation chain that covers the full bust. The bodice stays fitted with the fan-lace pattern, then the fabric flares out through increases at each side. That creates the eye-catching A-line silhouette.
No complicated seams here. Join the front and back with two short side seams and leave the skirt portion open. The four pronounced points at the hem form naturally from the geometry of the fan columns. Zero tricky short rows needed.
Thin adjustable spaghetti straps finish the romantic look. The whole design feels light, breezy, and perfect for warm days or layering under a jacket.
Skill Level and Time Commitment
This pattern sits at intermediate to advanced. You need steady tension across long foundation chains. You also need to understand fan and shell stitch repeats with offset placement, plus shaping through careful increases while keeping the repeats clean.
Comfortable with basic stitches and ready for a fun challenge? You can handle this.
Plan on about 18 to 26 hours for an average intermediate crocheter, depending on size. It’s a solid project for a few weekends or quiet Netflix evenings. Work both panels at the same time if you can—alternate every few rows to keep tension consistent.
Finished Measurements and Sizing Notes
This version is written for a size Medium (US 8/10).
Finished bust: 36 in / 91.5 cm (with roughly 2 in / 5 cm of ease from the open lace)
Finished length at center front: about 22 in / 56 cm from underarm to shortest hem point
Finished length at side points: about 28 in / 71 cm from underarm to longest hem point
Size tips appear later if you need to go smaller or larger. Always check your gauge first—this garment does not forgive guesswork.
Materials You’ll Need
Yarn: Roughly 600 yards / 549 meters of DK weight yarn (CYCA #3 Light) in lavender or soft lilac.
Good options include:
- Lion Brand Pound of Love in Lavender – 100% acrylic, clear stitch definition, budget-friendly
- Paintbox Yarns Simply DK in Dusty Lilac – smooth texture that lets the fans open nicely
- Cascade 220 Superwash Sport (worked at DK tension) in Soft Lilac – 100% superwash merino for beautiful drape and a soft halo
Pick a smooth, plied yarn. Fuzzy or bouclé yarns hide the openwork. Cotton blends work in warmer weather but offer less drape. Avoid stiff fibers. Always make a gauge swatch.
Hook: US Size E-4 (3.5 mm)
Notions:
- Yarn needle for weaving ends
- Scissors
- At least 6 stitch markers
- Rust-proof pins for blocking
- Blocking mat and spray bottle or basin
- 1.5 yards / 1.4 meters of thin ribbon, elastic cord, or adjustable spaghetti straps
- 4 small metal D-rings or slip rings (optional for adjustable straps)
- Measuring tape
Gauge Matters—Don’t Skip It
After blocking: 17 stitches and 10 rows = 4 in / 10 cm in the main fan lace pattern.
One full 12-stitch fan repeat measures about 2.8 in / 7 cm wide. Two rows measure about 1.6 in / 4 cm tall.
Gauge is non-negotiable here. A half-stitch difference per 4 inches can throw the finished width off by several inches. Swatch at least 6 in / 15 cm wide, block it, and measure before you start the real panels.
Abbreviations You’ll Use
Here are the shortcuts that show up throughout:
beg – beginning
ch – chain
ch-sp – chain space
cont – continue
dc – double crochet
dec – decrease
est – established
inc – increase
lp(s) – loop(s)
rem – remaining
rep – repeat
rnd – round
RS – right side
sc – single crochet
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
sp(s) – space(s)
st(s) – stitch(es)
t-ch – turning chain
WS – wrong side
yo – yarn over
Special Stitches Explained
These building blocks make the lace. Practice them a few times before you dive in.
Fan Stitch (also called Shell)
Work 7 double crochet stitches all into the same stitch or space. This creates one fan unit. It counts as 7 stitches when measuring but only occupies one stitch or space of the row below. Think of it as a little burst of stitches from a single point.
V-Stitch (V-st)
Work (dc, ch 2, dc) all into the same stitch or space. This forms a small open V and counts as 2 dc with one ch-2 space in the middle.
Beginning Fan (Beg-Fan)
At the start of a row, ch 3 (counts as first dc), then work 6 more dc into the same stitch or space. You get a full 7-dc fan right at the edge.
Pineapple Shell Cluster (PSC)
This creates the gathered crown effect at the top of each fan column.
Step 1: Yarn over, insert hook into the designated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops. You now have the first leg of a dc.
Step 2: Repeat Step 1 three more times into the same stitch. You now have 5 loops on your hook.
Step 3: Yarn over and draw through all 5 loops. Chain 1 to close.
It feels a little awkward the first few times. After a couple of rows it becomes automatic.
Transitional Chain Bridge (TCB)
Chain 3, then slip stitch into the top of the next fan stitch or PSC. This connects the fan columns horizontally between motifs.
Pattern Notes Before You Start
- Work two identical flat panels (front and back). Join them with a simple single crochet seam up each short side edge, leaving the top open for straps.
- The top is not reversible. The right side faces you on every right-side row. Turn at the end of each row unless told otherwise.
- The lace uses a 12-stitch repeat. The medium foundation gives 96 working stitches—exactly 8 full fan repeats per panel.
- Bodice section (Rows 1–14) has no increases. Keep the 96-stitch count for a fitted bust and ribcage.
- Skirt section (Rows 15 onward) adds gradual width increases for the dramatic A-line flare.
- The handkerchief hem forms naturally from the fan columns. No extra shaping needed.
- Chain 4 at the start of any row that needs a dc plus ch-1. Chain 3 at the start of any row that begins with a plain dc (counts as dc throughout).
- Block aggressively. This lace opens up dramatically with wet blocking, and the finished measurements assume a fully blocked piece.
- Work both panels at the same time if possible. Switch every few rows to keep tension even.
Crochet Pattern Instructions
Front Panel
Foundation Chain
Ch 116.
This creates a foundation of 116 chains. You will work into specific chains to produce 96 working stitches in the established pattern. The extra chains account for turning chains and skipped base chains in the fan setup.
Row 1 (RS, Setup Row)
Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch. (2 sc made)
Sk 2 ch, work Fan in next ch (7 dc), sk 2 ch, sc in next ch, sk 2 ch, V-st in next ch (dc, ch 2, dc), sk 2 ch, sc in next ch.
Rep from * to * across, ending with sc in last ch.
Count check: You should have 8 fans, 8 V-sts, and 17 sc across the row. This equals 8 fan units established across the panel.
Row 2 (WS)
Ch 1, turn. Sc in first sc.
Ch 3, PSC over center 3 dc of Fan below (insert into 3rd, 4th, and 5th dc of the fan), ch 3, sc in next sc, sc in ch-2 sp of V-st, sc in next sc.
Rep from * to * across, end sc in last sc.
Stitch count: 8 PSC, 16 ch-3 arches (each side of PSC), 57 sc total including the 8 sc worked into V-st ch-2 sps.
Row 3 (RS)
Ch 3 (counts as dc), turn. 3 dc in first sc (this creates a half fan at the edge).
Sc in top of PSC, Fan in next sc (the sc that sits over the V-st ch-sp from 2 rows below), sc in top of next PSC.
Rep from * to * across, end 4 dc in last sc (half fan at edge).
Stitch count: 8 full fans in body, 2 half-fans at edges, 16 sc between fans.
Row 4 (WS)
Ch 1, turn. Sc in top of ch-3 edge dc.
Ch 3, PSC over center 3 dc of Fan, ch 3, sc in sc, sc in sc, sc in sc.
Rep from * to * across, end sc in top of t-ch.
Counts mirror Row 2.
Rows 5 through 14
Rep Rows 3 and 4 alternately (5 more RS rows and 5 more WS rows), keeping all pattern repeats exactly as set. Do not increase.
At the end of Row 14 you will have completed 7 full RS rows and 7 full WS rows in the bodice section.
CHECKPOINT 1: After Row 14, your panel should measure approximately 6 in / 15 cm tall from foundation chain to working edge and approximately 18 in / 45.7 cm wide. If your panel is significantly narrower or wider, check your fan stitch tension before proceeding.
Skirt Section (Rows 15 through 36)
In the skirt section, the fans at each outer edge expand outward by adding chain bridges and extra fans at the sides. One new fan repeat is added at each outer edge every 4 rows.
Row 15 (RS, First Expansion Row)
Ch 6, sl st into first sc of previous RS row to create an extension at the left edge. Now work across exactly as Row 3 but at the right edge, after the final fan, ch 3 and work Fan into the sc below the ch-3 bridge you just made.
You have added one fan unit at each edge.
Stitch count: 10 fans total (8 center, 1 new left, 1 new right), 18 sc between fans, 2 ch-3 bridges at extensions.
Row 16 (WS)
Work as Row 4 across all 10 fan units, including the new edge fans.
Stitch count: 10 PSC with corresponding sc and ch-3 arches.
Rows 17 and 18
Work as Rows 3 and 4 across all 10 fans with no new increases.
Row 19 (RS, Second Expansion Row)
Add one fan at each outer edge using the same ch-6 extension and bridge technique as Row 15.
Stitch count: 12 fans total.
Row 20 (WS)
Work as Row 4 across all 12 fans.
Rows 21 and 22
Work as Rows 3 and 4 across 12 fans with no new increases.
Row 23 (RS, Third Expansion Row)
Add one fan at each outer edge.
Stitch count: 14 fans total.
Row 24 (WS)
Work as Row 4 across 14 fans.
Rows 25 and 26
Work as Rows 3 and 4 across 14 fans.
Row 27 (RS, Fourth Expansion Row)
Add one fan at each outer edge.
Stitch count: 16 fans total.
Row 28 (WS)
Work as Row 4 across 16 fans.
Rows 29 and 30
Work as Rows 3 and 4 across 16 fans.
Row 31 (RS, Fifth Expansion Row)
Add one fan at each outer edge.
Stitch count: 18 fans total.
Row 32 (WS)
Work as Row 4 across 18 fans.
Rows 33 and 34
Work as Rows 3 and 4 across 18 fans.
Row 35 (RS, Sixth Expansion Row)
Add one fan at each outer edge.
Stitch count: 20 fans total.
Row 36 (WS)
Work as Row 4 across 20 fans.
CHECKPOINT 2: After Row 36, your panel should measure approximately 22 in / 56 cm tall at center and approximately 30 in / 76 cm wide at the widest fan span before the points drop below the main body. The outer two fan columns on each side will naturally hang lower than the center, forming the beginning of the handkerchief points.
Hem Finishing Rows (Rows 37 and 38)
Row 37 (RS)
Work as Row 3 across all 20 fans. At the end of this row, the outer fan columns are at their lowest natural position. Do not add more fans.
Row 38 (WS)
Work as Row 4 across all 20 fans. Fasten off, leaving a 6 in / 15 cm tail.
The hem is now complete. The four outer fan columns form the handkerchief points. The center of the hem is slightly shorter, creating that beautiful scalloped-to-point transition.
Back Panel
Work the Back Panel exactly as the Front Panel, following all rows from Foundation Chain through Row 38. The two panels are identical.
Joining the Panels and Adding Straps
Hold the Front and Back panels with RS facing outward (WS together). Align the short side edges that run vertically along the sides of the body when worn.
Side Seams
Working with RS facing, attach yarn at the underarm point (the top corner of the side edge) with a sl st. Work sc seam along the side edge for approximately 12 in / 30.5 cm downward (approximately 14 rows of the bodice section). Fasten off.
Repeat on the opposite side edge.
Important: Seam only the bodice portion of the side edges (the first 14 rows). Leave the skirt section open. The skirt flares freely from the waist downward on both the front and back, with open side vents that allow the handkerchief hem to move beautifully.
Top Edge Finishing
With RS facing, attach yarn at the top corner of the front panel. Work one row of sc evenly across the top edge of the front panel (approximately 1 sc per row-end dc and 1 sc per sc row-end stitch). Work 3 sc into each corner.
Repeat across the back panel top edge. Fasten off.
Straps
Each shoulder has two parallel straps (4 straps total).
Positioning: The straps attach approximately 2.5 in / 6.3 cm in from each outer top corner of the panels, with the two straps at each shoulder spaced approximately 1 in / 2.5 cm apart.
Crocheted Cord Strap (make 4)
Ch 90 (approximately 14 in / 35.5 cm unstretched, enough for adjustment).
Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across.
Fasten off, leaving 8 in / 20 cm tails at each end for attaching.
Using the tail ends, thread each strap through the top edge sc stitches at the marked strap positions and knot securely on the WS, or attach to D-rings for adjustability.
If using purchased ribbon or cord straps, cut four lengths of approximately 16 in / 40.5 cm each and attach as above, knotting or sewing on the WS.
Size Customization Tips
To size down to a Small (bust 32 to 34 in / 81 to 86 cm): Begin with Ch 104 (foundation for 7 fan repeats across, or 84 working stitches). All row instructions stay the same. The finished bust measurement will be approximately 32 in / 81 cm total when seamed.
To size up to a Large (bust 40 to 42 in / 101.5 to 106.5 cm): Begin with Ch 128 (foundation for 9 fan repeats, or 108 working stitches). All row instructions stay the same. The finished bust measurement will be approximately 40 in / 101.5 cm total.
For each size above Large, add 12 chains to the foundation (one additional fan repeat) per size step, increasing the finished bust by approximately 2.75 in / 7 cm per repeat added.
For length adjustments: Each additional pair of rows (one RS, one WS) in the bodice section adds approximately 0.8 in / 2 cm to the bodice length. Each additional expansion cycle (4 rows) in the skirt section adds approximately 1.5 in / 3.8 cm to the center length and approximately 2.5 in / 6.3 cm to the point length.
Finishing, Blocking, and Care
Wet blocking is essential for this pattern. Lace will not open properly without it.
Step 1: Weave in all ends securely on WS before blocking.
Step 2: Fill a basin with cool water and a drop of gentle wool wash or baby shampoo. Submerge the completed top (both panels joined) and press gently to saturate. Do not wring.
Step 3: Remove the top from the water and press gently between two clean towels to remove excess water.
Step 4: Lay the piece flat on a blocking mat. Pin the top edge straight across. Pin each fan point of the hem to the blocking mat, stretching the points gently downward to accentuate the handkerchief effect. Use as many pins as needed to hold the scalloped hem edge open and even.
Step 5: Allow to dry completely flat (24 to 48 hours depending on yarn fiber content). Do not move until fully dry.
Step 6: Once dry, the fans will be open and the lace will be clearly defined. Remove pins and admire your work.
Care Instructions
For acrylic yarns: Machine wash on gentle cycle in cold water. Lay flat to dry. Do not tumble dry. Do not iron directly.
For wool or wool-blend yarns: Hand wash only in cool water with wool-safe detergent. Lay flat to dry. Do not wring, twist, or hang.
Store folded flat, not on a hanger, to prevent the lace fabric from stretching out of shape over time.
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You Made It—Now Wear It Proud
There you go. You just created a stunning lace overlay top that looks way more complicated than it actually is. Watching those fan motifs grow row after row feels pretty satisfying, doesn’t it?
Wear it over a simple tank, pair it with jeans or a flowy skirt, and enjoy the compliments. If you run into any sticky spots along the way, the stitch explanations above should help you through. Happy hooking, and enjoy your new favorite warm-weather piece from Sumara Patterns.
