You know that feeling when a crochet project just hits different? Soft lilac yarn, a little butterfly right in the center, and those airy mesh panels that move like actual wings. This Lavender Dreams Butterfly Halter Top is that project. It looks fancy enough for a festival or beach day, yet the stitches stay friendly once you get going. Ready to make something that turns heads without turning your brain inside out?
What Makes This Butterfly Halter Top Special
Picture a structured bandeau-style bodice that actually supports you, worked in solid single crochet. From the bottom edge, two open diamond mesh panels drop down into pointed tails at the front and back. A crocheted butterfly applique sits front and center like the star of the show.
The color story keeps things dreamy: soft lilac as the main color, deeper violet for the butterfly wings and scallop edges, plus a touch of white or pale lavender for wing highlights. The contrast pops without screaming for attention.
Construction moves in a smart order. You build the bodice band first, attach the mesh panels working downward, add the scallop border, then finish with straps, ties, and the butterfly. Each piece builds on the last so nothing feels random.
Skill Level and Time Commitment
This one sits at intermediate. You need to feel comfortable with single crochet in rows, reading a decrease sequence, working a simple mesh stitch, adding a scallop border, and making a small applique with color changes.
If you have finished a few projects already, you can handle this. Take the mesh decreases one row at a time and you will be fine. Rushing those pointed ends is the only real way to get frustrated.
Plan for 14 to 20 hours of actual hook time at a normal intermediate pace. Blocking sits outside that number. The butterfly alone takes another 1 to 2 hours, but it is the fun part.
Finished Size and Fit Details
The pattern fits a 32 to 34 inch bust with a bit of give from the mesh panels.
Key measurements:
- Bodice band circumference: about 30 inches (76 cm) unstretched
- Bodice band height: 6 inches (15 cm)
- Each mesh panel length from bodice base to tip: about 14 inches (35.5 cm)
- Total height from top of bodice to lowest panel point: about 20 inches (51 cm)
Side ties give you another 2 to 3 inches of adjustment at the waist. That little extra makes the fit feel custom.
Want a different size? Later I share quick tips for going up or down a bit.
Materials You Will Need
Grab these before you start so nothing slows you down.
Yarn
- Main Color (MC): about 500 yards (457 m) DK weight in soft lilac
- Contrast Color (CC): about 80 yards (73 m) DK weight in deep violet
- Accent Color (AC): about 20 yards (18 m) DK weight in white or pale lavender for wing highlights
Good options include Lion Brand Pound of Love, Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, or Scheepjes Catona if you prefer cotton. Any DK that meets gauge works. Skip fuzzy yarns because they hide the pretty mesh. Cotton or cotton blends give the crispest look and feel nicest against skin in warm weather.
Hooks
- US size E-4 (3.50 mm) for the bodice and mesh panels
- US size D-3 (3.25 mm) for the butterfly (optional but helps definition)
Notions
- Yarn needle
- 6 to 8 locking stitch markers
- Scissors
- Rust-proof pins for blocking
- Sewing needle and matching thread if you want the butterfly extra secure
Gauge Check
With MC and E-4 hook: 18 sc x 22 rows = 4 inches x 4 inches (10 cm x 10 cm) in single crochet, blocked.
Mesh panel gauge: one mesh repeat (ch 1, sk 1, sc 1) over 3 stitches measures about 0.67 inches wide. One mesh row measures about 0.55 inches tall.
Match this gauge. A quick swatch now beats frogging later. Adjust your hook if needed.
Abbreviations and Special Stitches
All terms use US standards.
Abbreviations
beg – beginning
BLO – back loop only
ch – chain
ch-sp – chain space
CC – contrast color
AC – accent color
dc – double crochet
dec – decrease
FLO – front loop only
hdc – half double crochet
inc – increase (two sc in one stitch)
MC – main color
pm – place marker
rem – remaining
rep – repeat
rnd – round
RS – right side
sc – single crochet
sc2tog – single crochet two together
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
sp – space
st(s) – stitch(es)
t-ch – turning chain
WS – wrong side
yo – yarn over
Diamond Mesh Stitch (worked flat)
Row A (RS): Ch 2 (does not count as st), sc in first st, (ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in next st) across, turn.
Row B (WS): Ch 2 (does not count as st), sc in first st, (ch 1, sk ch-1 sp, sc in next sc) across, turn.
Repeat Rows A and B. The ch-2 never counts as a stitch. Always sc into the real first stitch.
Scallop Border Stitch
Join CC with sl st in first st. Ch 1, sc in same st. Skip 1 st or sp, work 5 dc in next st or sp (shell made). Skip 1 st or sp, sc in next st or sp. Repeat the shell sequence across. Fasten off.
The edge stitch count needs to be a multiple of 4 plus one edge sc at each end for even shells.
Pattern Notes Before You Start
The bodice band works flat as a rectangle, then gets seamed into a tube. Mesh panels work as separate flat triangles, one front and one back. Each attaches to the base of the bodice and decreases at both edges for the pointed shape. Side ties go at the side seams. The neck strap attaches at the center front top and ties at the back. The butterfly is made separately and sewn on last.
All stitch counts sit in parentheses at the end of rows. Right side is the public side. The ch-2 turning chain in mesh rows does not count as a stitch.
Step-by-Step Pattern Instructions
Section 1: Bodice Band
With MC and E-4 hook, ch 137.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (136 sc)
Rows 2–15: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (136 sc)
After Row 15 do not turn. Fasten off, leaving a 24-inch sewing tail.
Checkpoint: Band should measure about 6 inches tall and 30 inches wide. Check gauge if it differs.
Fold so short side edges meet, RS facing out. Whip stitch or mattress stitch the short edges together. This seam becomes the left side. Weave in ends. Top edge gets the halter strap later. Bottom edge gets the mesh panels.
Section 2: Front Mesh Panel
With the side seam on the left, mark the front 68 stitches across the base edge.
Setup Row: With RS facing, attach MC to the right-hand end of those 68 stitches. Working into the foundation chain loops, ch 2 (does not count as st), sc in first st, (ch 1, sk 1, sc in next st) across, turn. (34 sc, 33 ch-1 sps)
Each decrease row removes 1 sc from each end. Decreases happen every RS row. The panel goes from 34 sc down to 2 sc at the tip.
Panel Row 1 (WS): Ch 2, sc in first st, (ch 1, sk sp, sc in next sc) across, turn. (34 sc, 33 ch-sps)
Panel Row 2 (RS, decrease): Ch 2, sc2tog over first sc and ch-1 sp, sc in next sc, (ch 1, sk sp, sc in next sc) across until 2 sc and 1 sp remain, ch 1, sk sp, sc2tog over last sc and next sp. Turn. (32 sc, 31 ch-sps)
Continue alternating plain WS rows and decrease RS rows. Stitch counts drop like this:
Panel Rows 3-4: 32 sc to 30 sc
Panel Rows 5-6: 30 sc to 28 sc
Panel Rows 7-8: 28 sc to 26 sc
Panel Rows 9-10: 26 sc to 24 sc
Panel Rows 11-12: 24 sc to 22 sc
Panel Rows 13-14: 22 sc to 20 sc
Panel Rows 15-16: 20 sc to 18 sc
Panel Rows 17-18: 18 sc to 16 sc
Panel Rows 19-20: 16 sc to 14 sc
Panel Rows 21-22: 14 sc to 12 sc
Panel Rows 23-24: 12 sc to 10 sc
Panel Rows 25-26: 10 sc to 8 sc
Panel Rows 27-28: 8 sc to 6 sc
Panel Rows 29-30: 6 sc to 4 sc
Panel Row 31 (WS): (4 sc, 3 ch-sps)
Panel Row 32 (RS, final decrease): Ch 2, sc2tog, ch 1, sc2tog. Turn. (2 sc, 1 ch-sp)
Panel Row 33 (WS, final point): Ch 2, sc2tog over 2 sc. (1 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a 6-inch tail. Weave in end. Panel should measure about 14 inches from top to tip.
Section 3: Back Mesh Panel
Work exactly the same as the front panel on the remaining 68 stitches of the bodice base edge.
Section 4: Scallop Border
With RS facing, attach CC to the top right corner of one panel’s right slanted edge. Work sc evenly along the edge (about 1 sc into each row end and each ch-2 space). Aim for about 33 sc along the right edge, 1 sc at the bottom point, and 33 sc along the left edge (65 sc total).
Scallop Border Row: Sl st to first sc, ch 1, sc in first sc, (skip 1 sc, 5 dc in next sc, skip 1 sc, sc in next sc) across. (16 scallop shells)
Fasten off. Repeat on the second panel.
Section 5: Side Ties
Make 4 ties. For each: Ch 50 (about 9 inches). Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Fasten off, leaving a 10-inch sewing tail.
Attach pairs of ties at each side of the bodice, roughly at row 7 or 8. Sew through several stitches so they stay put.
Section 6: Halter Neck Strap
With MC and E-4 hook, ch 160 (about 28 inches). Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Fasten off, leaving 10-inch tails on both ends.
Sew one end to the top-right front corner of the bodice through 4 to 5 stitches. Repeat on the top-left front corner. The strap goes up, behind the neck, and ties in a bow.
Section 7: Butterfly Applique
Use MC, CC, and AC with the smaller D-3 hook if you have it.
Upper Wings (make 2)
With CC, ch 4, join with sl st to form a ring.
Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in ring, ch 2, 3 dc in ring, ch 2, 3 dc in ring, ch 2, 3 dc in ring, ch 2, sl st to top of ch-3. (4 groups of 3 dc, 4 ch-2 sps)
Round 2: Sl st across to first ch-2 sp, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same ch-2 sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in last ch-2 sp, ch 1, sl st to top of ch-3. Fasten off CC.
Round 3: Join AC with sl st in any ch-2 corner sp, ch 1, (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) in each ch-2 sp around, sc in each dc and ch-1 sp around. Sl st to first sc. Fasten off AC.
Lower Wings (make 2)
With CC, ch 4, join with sl st to form a ring.
Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in ring, ch 2, 3 dc in ring, ch 2, 3 dc in ring, ch 2, sl st to top of ch-3. (3 groups of 3 dc, 3 ch-2 sps)
Round 2: Sl st to first ch-2 sp, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in last sp, ch 1, sl st to top of ch-3. Fasten off CC.
Round 3: Join AC and work the same as upper wing Round 3. Fasten off AC.
Butterfly Body
With CC, ch 10. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (9 sc) Fasten off, leaving a sewing tail.
With MC, join at top of body and ch 6, fold and sl st to base to form left antenna. Ch 6, fold and sl st to same base for right antenna. Fasten off.
Assemble the Butterfly
Sew the two upper wings together along their straight edges. Place lower wings below, slightly overlapping at center, and sew. Lay the body vertically over the center join and sew through all layers. Attach the antennas at the top.
Sew the finished butterfly to the center front of the bodice, about two rows down from the top edge and centered.
Size Customization Tips
To size up for a 36 to 38 inch bust: Chain 153 instead of 137. Each mesh panel starts with 76 stitches and needs 36 decrease rows plus the point row.
To size down for a 28 to 30 inch bust: Chain 121. Each mesh panel starts with 60 stitches and needs 28 decrease rows.
Adjust bodice height by adding or removing plain sc rows. Every 2 rows changes height by about 0.36 inches.
Lengthen or shorten panels by adding or removing decrease rows. Always keep a plain WS row between decrease rows.
Finishing, Blocking, and Care
Weave in every end on the wrong side, going at least an inch in different directions.
Hand wash in cool water with gentle soap. Do not wring. Roll in a towel to remove water. Pin flat on blocking mats, gently stretching the mesh open. Pin each scallop point so the border looks sharp. Dry fully (12 to 24 hours).
For acrylic: Machine wash cold on gentle in a mesh bag. Lay flat to dry. No tumble dry, iron, or dry cleaning.
For cotton: Hand wash cool and lay flat. A light iron with a damp cloth works if needed.
Store flat or loosely folded. Hanging can stretch the mesh over time.
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You Did It!
There you go. Your own Lavender Dreams Butterfly Halter Top ready for sunshine, festivals, or just feeling a little extra on a regular Tuesday. The butterfly always gets the compliments. FYI, the mesh panels move so nicely once blocked.
If you make one, share your color choices or any tweaks you tried. Happy hooking from the Sumara Patterns crew!
