Ever spotted a dress that made you stop scrolling and whisper “I need that”? This mint green crochet daisy dress does exactly that. It pairs a fitted bodice with a flowy pineapple lace skirt and cute daisy appliques at the neckline and hem.
Good news: the pattern is free, and I’m walking you through every single stitch. Fair warning though, this is a big project. We’re talking 60 to 90 hours of hook time. But trust me, the result is worth every minute.
Let’s get into it.
Why This Daisy Dress Deserves Your Hook
This dress nails everything a summer garment should do. The fitted bodice holds its shape and supports you. The lace skirt lets air move through, so you stay cool even on the hottest days.
The sweetheart neckline flatters pretty much every body type. And the adjustable straps? They let you fine-tune the fit instead of crossing your fingers and hoping.
The pineapple lace stitch creates that gorgeous open texture in the skirt. Never tried pineapple lace before? Don’t panic. It looks complicated, but it follows a logical rhythm once you get going.
The daisy appliques are a separate project on their own. You crochet them last and sew them on. That means you control the placement. Want more daisies? Add more. Want them in a different color? Go wild.
What You’ll Need to Get Started
Before you buy anything, read through this whole section. Choosing the wrong yarn will ruin the drape, and this dress lives or dies by its drape.
Yarn Requirements
Here’s the full breakdown:
- Main Color (MC): About 1,800 yards of DK weight 100 percent cotton in mint green
- Contrast Color 1 (CC1): About 200 yards of DK weight cotton in white (daisy petals)
- Contrast Color 2 (CC2): About 50 yards of DK weight cotton in yellow (daisy centers)
- Contrast Color 3 (CC3): About 30 yards of DK weight cotton in sage or leaf green (leaves and daisy bases)
Yarn Brands That Work Well
Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in Mint and White is a solid pick. It’s mercerized, which gives you crisp stitch definition for lace work.
Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK in Spearmint and Paper White drapes beautifully for garments and comes in tons of colors.
Drops Safran in Mint and Off White has a soft matte finish that photographs like a dream.
Whatever brand you choose, pick a smooth, tightly plied DK cotton or cotton blend with low stretch. Skip wool and acrylic blends here. Cotton’s drape and stitch definition are what make the pineapple lace open correctly.
Tools You’ll Need
- US E-4 / 3.5 mm hook (bodice)
- US F-5 / 3.75 mm hook (skirt and mesh waistband)
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch markers (lots of them)
- Blocking mats and pins
- Measuring tape
- Scissors
Sizing and Gauge (Don’t Skip This Part)
This pattern is written for Women’s size Medium.
Now, gauge. I need you to take this seriously. Even a tiny difference will make the dress way too big or way too small. Nobody wants to discover that after 80 hours of work.
With the E-4 hook and MC:
- 18 single crochet x 22 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm
With the F-5 hook and MC:
- One pineapple repeat (15 stitches wide) x 6 rows = about 3.5 inches / 9 cm wide and 2.5 inches / 6.4 cm tall
Daisy applique finished size: about 3 inches / 7.5 cm across.
Make multiple swatches. Wash them. Block them. Then measure again. This step saves you from heartbreak later, I promise.
Stitches and Abbreviations You’ll Use
Here’s your cheat sheet for every stitch in this pattern:
- ch = chain: Yarn over, pull through loop on hook
- sc = single crochet: Insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops), yarn over, pull through both
- dc = double crochet: Yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop (3 loops), yarn over, pull through 2, yarn over, pull through 2
- hdc = half double crochet: Yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop (3 loops), yarn over, pull through all 3
- tr = treble crochet: Yarn over twice, insert hook, pull up a loop (4 loops), yarn over, pull through 2 three times
- sl st = slip stitch: Insert hook, yarn over, pull through everything
- sk = skip
- sp = space
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- rnd = round
- rs / ws = right side / wrong side
- pm = place marker
- rep = repeat
- beg = beginning
- rem = remaining
Special Stitches Explained
sc2tog (single crochet 2 together): Insert hook into next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops). Insert hook into following stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops). Yarn over, pull through all 3. One stitch decreased.
dc2tog (double crochet 2 together): Yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 (2 loops). Yarn over, insert hook into next stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 (3 loops). Yarn over, pull through all 3. One decrease made.
Extended Single Crochet (esc): Insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops). Yarn over, pull through first loop only (2 loops). Yarn over, pull through both loops. Slightly taller than a normal sc. Used in the waistband mesh.
Shell Stitch: Work 5 dc into the same stitch or space.
Reverse Single Crochet (rsc): Working right to left (opposite of normal), insert hook into stitch to the right, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both. Used for strap edging.
Pineapple Cluster (PC): Insert hook into space, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2. That’s one incomplete dc. Work 4 more incomplete dc into the same space (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, pull through all 6 at once.
Pattern Notes Before You Start
Read these ten notes first. They’ll save you from confusion later:
- The bodice works flat in rows, gets seamed at one side, then joins for the skirt worked in the round.
- The sweetheart neckline uses short row decreases at center front. The back neckline stays straight.
- Straps are made separately and sewn to the inside top edge.
- Skirt increases happen in defined increase rounds, separated by plain rounds, creating a gradual A-line flare.
- The pineapple lace starts at the waist after a short mesh transition and continues to the hem.
- Daisy appliques are crocheted separately and sewn on after blocking.
- The pineapple repeat is a multiple of 15 stitches plus 6 for the foundation.
- Don’t pull too tight on chain spaces in the lace skirt, or the lace won’t open properly.
- Don’t touch the F-5 hook until instructed. The bodice uses only the E-4.
- All rounds join with a sl st to the first stitch unless noted. After joining, chain 1 for sc rounds or chain 3 for dc rounds.
Step by Step: Crocheting the Dress
Part One: The Bodice
The bodice works flat, back and forth, starting at the upper front edge. The sweetheart shaping creates a gentle V dip at center front.
Front Bodice Panel
With E-4 hook and MC, chain 83.
Foundation Row (ws): Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (82 sc)
Sweetheart Shaping: Work the right cup first (stitches 1 through 38), then the left cup (stitches 45 through 82). Leave stitches 39 through 44 unworked at center for the V.
Right Front Cup
Row 1 (rs): Ch 1, sc in first 38 sts. Turn. (38 sc)
Row 2 (ws): Ch 1, sc2tog, sc to end. Turn. (37 sc)
Row 3 (rs): Ch 1, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (36 sc)
Row 4 (ws): Ch 1, sc2tog, sc to end. Turn. (35 sc)
Row 5 (rs): Ch 1, sc in all sts. Turn. (35 sc)
Row 6 (ws): Ch 1, sc in all sts. Turn. (35 sc)
Cut yarn. Place sts on holder.
Left Front Cup
Rejoin MC at stitch 45 with rs facing.
Row 1 (rs): Ch 1, sc in each of next 38 sts. Turn. (38 sc)
Row 2 (ws): Ch 1, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (37 sc)
Row 3 (rs): Ch 1, sc2tog, sc to end. Turn. (36 sc)
Row 4 (ws): Ch 1, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (35 sc)
Row 5 (rs): Ch 1, sc in all sts. Turn. (35 sc)
Row 6 (ws): Ch 1, sc in all sts. Turn. (35 sc)
Join Cups and Continue Front Bodice
Joining Row (rs): Ch 1, sc across left cup (35 sts), ch 6 across center gap, sc across right cup (35 sts). Turn. (76 sc + 6 ch = 82 working sts)
Row 8 (ws): Ch 1, sc in each st and each ch across. Turn. (82 sc)
Rows 9 through 42: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (82 sc each row)
This gives you about 6.2 inches of bodice below the cup shaping.
Waist Shaping
Row 43: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc 19, sc2tog, sc 18, sc2tog, sc 19, sc2tog, sc to end. Turn. (78 sc)
Row 44: Ch 1, sc in all sts. Turn. (78 sc)
Row 45: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc 18, sc2tog, sc 16, sc2tog, sc 18, sc2tog, sc to end. Turn. (74 sc)
Row 46: Ch 1, sc in all sts. Turn. (74 sc)
Row 47: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc 17, sc2tog, sc 14, sc2tog, sc 17, sc2tog, sc to end. Turn. (70 sc)
Row 48: Ch 1, sc in all sts. Turn. (70 sc)
Row 49: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc 16, sc2tog, sc 12, sc2tog, sc 16, sc2tog, sc to end. Turn. (66 sc)
Row 50: Ch 1, sc in all sts. Turn. (66 sc)
Row 51: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc 15, sc2tog, sc 10, sc2tog, sc 15, sc2tog, sc to end. Turn. (62 sc)
Row 52: Ch 1, sc in all sts. Turn. (62 sc)
Row 53: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc 14, sc2tog, sc 8, sc2tog, sc 14, sc2tog, sc to end. Turn. (58 sc)
Checkpoint: You should have 58 sts and about 11 inches from the top edge.
Rows 54 through 62: Ch 1, sc in all sts. Turn. (58 sc each row)
These 9 rows hold the narrow waist section.
Waist Expansion
Row 63: Ch 1, sc 14, 2 sc in next st, sc 28, 2 sc in next st, sc to end. Turn. (60 sc)
Row 64: Ch 1, sc in all sts. Turn. (60 sc)
Row 65: Ch 1, sc 14, 2 sc in next st, sc 29, 2 sc in next st, sc to end. Turn. (62 sc)
Row 66: Ch 1, sc in all sts. Turn. (62 sc)
Row 67: Ch 1, sc 14, 2 sc in next st, sc 31, 2 sc in next st, sc to end. Turn. (64 sc)
Row 68: Ch 1, sc in all sts. Turn. (64 sc)
Don’t cut yarn. Set the front bodice aside.
Back Bodice Panel
With E-4 hook and MC, chain 83.
Foundation Row (ws): Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (82 sc)
Rows 1 through 42: Ch 1, sc in all sts. Turn. (82 sc each row)
The back neckline is straight, no cup shaping needed.
Work waist shaping rows 43 through 68 exactly as written for the front.
Cut yarn, leaving a 24-inch tail for seaming.
Seaming the Bodice
Hold wrong sides together. Using the long tail and tapestry needle, mattress stitch the left side seam from the bottom up to within 3 inches of the top. Leave that top 3 inches open for the armhole. Seam the second side the same way.
Checkpoint: The bodice should measure about 12.5 to 13 inches tall. The waist should be around 25 inches around. The bottom opening should be around 28 inches around.
Part Two: Neckline Edging
With E-4 hook and MC, join at center back neck edge with rs facing.
Rnd 1: Sc evenly around the entire neckline, about 1 sc per row end on the straight back and sides, following the sweetheart curve naturally at front. Approx. 148 sc. Join with sl st to first sc. (148 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (148 sc)
Mark strap positions: Front straps start 12 sts from each armhole edge on the front neckline. Back straps start 12 sts from each armhole edge on the back neckline.
Part Three: Shoulder Straps (Make 2)
With E-4 hook and MC, chain 7.
Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (6 sc)
Rows 2 through 80: Ch 1, sc in all sts. Turn. (6 sc each row)
This gives about 14.5 inches of strap. Adjust for your fit.
Edging: Work 1 row rsc along each long edge.
Sew straps to bodice at marked positions.
Part Four: Armhole Edging
With E-4 hook and MC, join at bottom of armhole with rs facing.
Rnd 1: Sc evenly around armhole. About 38 sc per armhole. Join. (38 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (38 sc)
Cut yarn and weave in ends.
Part Five: Mesh Waistband Transition
Switch to F-5 hook. Join MC at any st of the bottom opening of the bodice with rs facing.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in each st around the bottom opening. Join. (128 sc)
Rnd 2 (mesh): Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), skip 1 st, dc in next st, (ch 1, skip 1, dc in next st) around. Join to third ch of beg ch-4. (64 dc + 64 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 3 (mesh): Ch 4, dc in next ch-1 sp, (ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp) around. Join to third ch of beg ch-4.
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in each dc and each ch-1 sp around. Join. (128 sc)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in each st, placing 2 sc in every 8th st to begin flaring. Join. (144 sc)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in each st, working 2 sc into every 16th st until 6 extra sts are added. Join. (150 sc)
The pineapple repeat of 15 fits evenly 10 times around with 150 stitches.
Part Six: Pineapple Lace Skirt
All skirt rounds use the F-5 hook and MC.
Rnd 7 (setup for lace): Ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2), skip 2 sts, dc in next st, (ch 2, skip 2, dc in next st) rep around to last 2 sts, ch 2, skip 2. Join to third ch of beg ch-5. (50 dc + 50 ch-2 sps)
Pineapple Lace Pattern
The pineapple motif works over a 15 stitch base and grows over 10 rounds before decreasing. The full skirt uses 6 tiers of pineapples. Each tier equals 10 rounds.
Rnd 8: Sl st into first ch-2 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in same sp, ch 1, (3 dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 1) around. Join to top of beg ch-3. (50 groups of 3 dc, 50 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc in space between dc groups, ch 5, (sc in next space between groups, ch 5) around. Join. (50 sc + 50 ch-5 sps)
Rnd 10 (begin pineapples): Sl st into first ch-5 sp, ch 3, 6 dc in same sp. (ch 2, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 2, 7 dc in following ch-5 sp) rep around to last two sps, ch 2, sc in next sp, ch 2. Join to top of beg ch-3. (25 fans of 7 dc + 25 sc anchors)
Rnd 11: Sl st to top of fan, ch 3, 2 dc in same top dc. Ch 2, sk 2 dc, sc in next (center) dc, ch 2, sk 2 dc, 3 dc in last dc of fan, ch 1. Working over to next fan: ch 1, 3 dc in first dc of next fan, ch 2, sk 2, sc in center dc, ch 2, sk 2, 3 dc in last dc, ch 1. Rep around. Join.
Rnd 12: Sl st to top of 3-dc group, ch 3, dc in same st, ch 2, sc in next sc, ch 2, 2 dc in top of next 3-dc group, ch 3, 2 dc in top of following 3-dc group, ch 2, sc in sc, ch 2, 2 dc in 3-dc group, ch 3. Rep around. Join.
Rounds 13 through 17 (pineapple close): Each round, work the sc at the tip of each arch and reduce the dc count in each pineapple column by 1 dc on each side per round. By round 17, each pineapple closes to a single sc at its tip.
Tier Increases and Remaining Tiers
Rnd 18 (Tier increase): Work 7 dc into each ch-5 arch around, ch 2 between fans, working 1 sc into arch separators. Add 10 extra arch spaces evenly. (60 arch spaces total)
Tier 2 (rounds 19 through 28): Repeat the pineapple lace sequence over 60 fan positions.
Rnd 29: Add 10 more arch spaces evenly. (70 arch spaces)
Tier 3 (rounds 30 through 39): Pineapple sequence over 70 fan positions.
Rnd 40: Add 10 more arch spaces evenly. (80 arch spaces)
Tier 4 (rounds 41 through 50): Pineapple sequence over 80 fan positions.
Rnd 51: Add 10 more arch spaces evenly. (90 arch spaces)
Tier 5 (rounds 52 through 61): Pineapple sequence over 90 fan positions.
Rnd 62: Add 10 more arch spaces evenly. (100 arch spaces)
Tier 6 (rounds 63 through 72): Pineapple sequence over 100 fan positions.
Checkpoint: The skirt should measure about 20 inches long. The hem should measure between 50 and 56 inches around.
Hem Arch Edging
Rnd 73: Into each ch-5 arch at hem: (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc), sc in each sc anchor between arches. Join. This creates a scalloped edge for the daisy appliques.
Cut yarn and weave in ends.
Part Seven: Daisy Appliques
The dress uses two sizes of daisy. Large daisies border the hem. Smaller daisies decorate the neckline. Each daisy has white petals (CC1), a yellow center (CC2), and optional green leaves (CC3).
Work the daisy petals using the Daisy Petal stitch: Chain 8, sl st into the first ch to form a ring. Into the ring: (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc). That’s one petal.
Make about 15 to 20 large daisies for the hem and 8 to 10 smaller ones for the neckline.
Finishing Your Dress
Block the whole dress before attaching anything. Pin it to blocking mats, spray with water, and let it dry completely.
Pin the daisy appliques around the neckline and hem. Space them evenly. Sew each daisy securely with matching thread and a tapestry needle.
Weave in all remaining ends. Add an optional lining if you want more opacity.
Tips for Success
Take gauge seriously. I can’t say this enough. A dress that doesn’t fit after 60 plus hours of work is genuinely painful.
Mark your rounds. Pineapple lace gets disorienting fast. Use stitch markers generously.
Block aggressively. Cotton relaxes a lot when wet blocked. The lace will open beautifully with proper blocking.
Try it on as you go. After finishing the bodice, try it on before starting the skirt. Fixing fit issues at that stage is way easier.
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Final Thoughts
This Mint Meadow Crochet Daisy Dress is a true labor of love. It’s not a weekend project, and it’s not for total beginners. But if you’re ready for a challenge, the payoff is a stunning handmade dress you’ll wear all summer.
Every hour you put in shows in the final piece. The fitted bodice, the flowing pineapple lace, those sweet daisy details. It all comes together into something special.
If you make this dress, I’d love to see it. Tag Sumara Patterns on Instagram or drop a photo in the comments. Seeing your creations is honestly the best part of sharing patterns.
Save this pattern to your Pinterest boards so you can find it when you’re ready to start. And leave a comment below if you have any questions along the way. Happy crocheting!
