Ever spotted a morpho butterfly and wished you could wear that shimmering blue? These Ocean Blue Butterfly Dangle Earrings capture exactly that magic in thread crochet. They are delicate, dimensional, and surprisingly lightweight. Best of all, the free pattern below walks you through every single stitch.
FYI, this is an intermediate project, but don’t let that scare you. If you can work a double crochet and a chain, you already have the core skills. Ready to make a pair?
Why These Butterfly Earrings Deserve a Spot in Your Queue
Thread crochet jewelry looks fancy. It also looks intimidating. Those tiny stitches and fine hooks can seem fussy, right?
Here is the truth: this pattern is easier than it looks. Each butterfly comes together from two separate wing pieces joined at the center. That means you never juggle too many stitches at once. The wings stay flat and manageable the whole way through.
The variegated thread does all the color work for you. No mid-row color changes. No weaving in dozens of ends. Just let that blue, teal, and white thread shift naturally as you stitch.
Finished size: each butterfly measures about 1.75 inches wide by 1.5 inches tall, not counting the ear wire or antennae. The full drop from hook to butterfly bottom is roughly 2.5 inches.
Time estimate: plan for 2 to 3 hours per pair, assembly included. Experienced thread crocheters might finish closer to 1.5 hours.
Skill level: intermediate. You should feel comfortable with shell stitches, working into chain spaces, slip stitch joins, and assembling beads and wire.
Gather Your Materials First
Collecting your supplies before you start makes everything smoother. Here is your full shopping list for one pair.
Crochet Thread
Grab size 10 cotton crochet thread in a variegated blue, teal, and white colorway. You need about 15 yards per earring, so 30 yards total for the pair.
Thread ideas:
- Lizbeth Size 10 Crochet Thread in a variegated ocean colorway such as “Ocean Turquoise” gives excellent stitch definition.
- DMC Cebelia Size 10 Cotton Thread is usually solid, but you can pair two shades like DMC 3846 (light bright turquoise) and 995 (dark electric blue) for a similar look.
- Aunt Lydia’s Classic Crochet Thread Size 10 in a variegated colorway like “Monet” works beautifully too.
Skip polyester thread for this project. It slips around and resists blocking, which makes shaping the wings a real pain.
Hook
Use a steel crochet hook size 7 (1.65 mm), or whatever size gets you the right gauge.
Findings and Embellishments (per earring)
You will need jewelry findings and beads for the body and antennae. Gather everything before you sit down to crochet.
Tools
Round-nose pliers, chain-nose pliers, a tapestry needle, and small sharp scissors round out your toolkit.
Gauge (And Why It Matters Here)
With a size 7 (1.65 mm) steel hook and size 10 crochet thread:
- 1 shell (5 double crochet) equals about 0.4 inches wide.
- 10 rows of double crochet equals about 1 inch tall.
Gauge is not critical for jewelry, as long as both earrings use the same hook and tension so they match. Still, correct gauge keeps your finished butterfly close to the stated dimensions.
Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions
Let me walk you through every abbreviation before we begin. No surprises later.
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet — insert your hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, draw through both loops
- hdc: half double crochet
- dc: double crochet — yarn over before inserting your hook, pull up a loop, then work off two loops twice
- tr: treble crochet
- sk: skip
- sp: space
- ch-sp: chain space
- st(s): stitch(es)
- rep: repeat
- beg: beginning
- yo: yarn over
- MR: magic ring, also called an adjustable ring
- pm: place marker
- rem: remaining
- RS: right side
- WS: wrong side
- rnd: round
- lp(s): loop(s)
Special Stitches You Will Use
These decorative stitches create the lovely wing texture. Practice them first if they are new to you.
Shell Stitch (shell)
Work 5 double crochet all into the same stitch or chain space. This creates a fan-shaped group that forms each wing lobe.
- Yarn over, insert hook into the indicated stitch or space.
- Pull up a loop. Yarn over, draw through 2 loops. That is your first dc.
- Repeat steps 1 and 2 four more times into the same stitch or space.
You now have 5 dc total in the same spot. That completes 1 shell.
Large Shell Stitch (lg-shell)
Work 7 double crochet all into the same stitch or chain space. Use this for the larger upper wing lobes. Follow the same method as above, but work 7 dc into the same location instead of 5.
Picot
Chain 3, then slip stitch into the first chain made (the chain closest to the hook). This creates a tiny decorative knot at the tip of each wing lobe. Think of it as a little crown.
V-Stitch (V-st)
Work (1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc) all into the same stitch or chain space. This creates a small V shape with an open center.
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
Read through these tips. They will save you frustration later.
- Each butterfly is made of two separate wing units: one upper and one lower. Join them at a central point, then add the body assembly (beads and wire).
- Each wing unit is crocheted flat in rows with turning chains.
- Attach the ear wire last, through a small loop at the top of the butterfly body assembly.
- The antennae come from silver headpins bent and shaped after assembly, not from crochet.
- When working with size 10 thread and a fine steel hook, pull your loops up slightly taller than usual. This prevents overly tight stitches that make the next row hard to work. Give yourself some breathing room.
- All counts in parentheses at the end of a row reflect total stitches or stitch groups across the working edge.
- The pattern is written for one butterfly (one earring). Repeat all steps for the second earring.
- Right side and wrong side matter here. The RS faces outward when worn. Both sides look nearly identical thanks to the lace structure, but the RS has a slightly cleaner stitch appearance.
Upper Wing Unit Instructions
The upper wing unit is made of two upper wings joined at the center. It is worked in rows. This is the larger of the two wing pieces.
Foundation: Ch 4, sl st to first ch to form a small ring. Alternatively, use a tight magic ring.
Row 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), work 2 dc into ring, ch 2, work 3 dc into ring, turn. (6 dc, 1 ch-2 sp)
Row 2: Ch 3, dc into first dc (V-st started), dc into next dc, dc into next dc, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) into ch-2 sp (center shell over gap), dc into next dc, dc into next dc, 2 dc into top of turning ch, turn. (12 dc, 1 ch-2 sp)
Row 3: Ch 3, work lg-shell (7 dc) into first dc, sk 2 dc, sc into next dc, sc into next dc, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into ch-2 sp, sc into next dc, sc into next dc, sk 2 dc, lg-shell (7 dc) into last dc (top of turning ch), turn. (2 lg-shells of 7 dc each, 4 sc, 1 central group of 6 dc, 1 ch-2 sp)
Row 4: Ch 1, sc into first dc of lg-shell, ch 3, picot, ch 3, sk 3 dc of lg-shell, sc into center (4th) dc of lg-shell, ch 3, picot, ch 3, sk 3 dc of lg-shell, sc into last dc of lg-shell, ch 2, sk 2 sc, sc into first dc of center group, ch 1, (2 dc, ch 3, picot, ch 3, 2 dc) into ch-2 sp (center top arch), ch 1, sc into last dc of center group, ch 2, sk 2 sc, sc into first dc of second lg-shell, ch 3, picot, ch 3, sk 3 dc, sc into center dc of second lg-shell, ch 3, picot, ch 3, sk 3 dc, sc into last dc of second lg-shell. Do not turn.
Fasten off, leaving a 6-inch tail for joining.
Checkpoint: Your upper wing unit should measure about 1.75 inches wide and 0.75 inches tall. It should have two symmetrical wing lobes, each tipped with two picots, plus a small arch at the center top where the ear wire assembly will attach.
Lower Wing Unit Instructions
The lower wings are slightly shorter and rounder than the upper wings. They are worked similarly, but with standard shells instead of large shells.
Foundation: Ch 4, sl st to first ch to form a small ring.
Row 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), work 2 dc into ring, ch 2, work 3 dc into ring, turn. (6 dc, 1 ch-2 sp)
Row 2: Ch 3, dc into first dc, dc into next 2 dc, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) into ch-2 sp, dc into next 2 dc, 2 dc into top of turning ch, turn. (12 dc, 1 ch-2 sp)
Row 3: Ch 3, shell (5 dc) into first dc, sk 2 dc, sc into next dc, sc into next dc, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) into ch-2 sp, sc into next dc, sc into next dc, sk 2 dc, shell (5 dc) into top of turning ch, turn. (2 shells of 5 dc each, 4 sc, 1 central group of 4 dc, 1 ch-2 sp)
Row 4: Ch 1, sc into first dc of shell, ch 2, picot, ch 2, sk 2 dc of shell, sc into center (3rd) dc of shell, ch 2, picot, ch 2, sk 2 dc, sc into last dc of shell, ch 2, sk 2 sc, sc into first dc of center group, (dc, ch 2, dc) into ch-2 sp (V-st for lower center notch), sc into last dc of center group, ch 2, sk 2 sc, sc into first dc of second shell, ch 2, picot, ch 2, sk 2 dc, sc into center dc of second shell, ch 2, picot, ch 2, sk 2 dc, sc into last dc of second shell. Do not turn.
Fasten off, leaving a 6-inch tail for joining.
Checkpoint: Your lower wing unit should measure about 1.5 inches wide and 0.6 inches tall. It should be visibly smaller than the upper wing unit, with a rounder, more compact silhouette.
Joining the Wing Units Together
Hold the upper wing unit with the RS facing you and the center arch at the top. Hold the lower wing unit with the RS facing you and the V-stitch notch at the bottom.
Align the two units so the foundation rings stack on top of each other, upper wing unit in front.
Using the tail from either unit and a tapestry needle, whipstitch through both foundation rings 3 to 4 times to secure them firmly. The rings form the butterfly body center point.
Do not fasten off the tail yet. Use the remaining tail ends to tidy any gaps between the two units at the center seam. Weave in all thread ends securely.
Body and Antenna Assembly
This is where your butterfly really comes to life. Take your time with the wire work.
Step 1: Antennae
Take one silver headpin. Using round-nose pliers, create a tiny loop at the non-pointed end. This loop anchors the antennae to the body center.
Bend the headpin at a gentle V-angle about 0.5 inches from the loop end, forming two separate antenna arms.
Thread 1 crystal bicone bead onto each arm.
Using chain-nose pliers, bend each arm tip slightly outward to create a natural antenna curve and to keep the crystal beads from sliding off. If needed, add a tiny drop of jewelry adhesive to the bead hole to lock it in place.
Step 2: Body
Cut a second headpin to about 1 inch.
Thread in this order: 2 silver seed beads, 1 turquoise nugget bead, 2 silver seed beads. This forms the butterfly body.
Step 3: Attach Antennae and Body
Pass the looped end of the antenna headpin through the center of the joined wing units from front to back.
Pass the body headpin through the same center point, layered directly behind the antenna headpin.
Using round-nose pliers, create a wrapped loop or simple loop at the bottom of the body headpin to secure all components together. Trim any excess wire.
Step 4: Ear Wire
Open the loop on the French hook ear wire slightly using chain-nose pliers.
Slip the loop at the top of the antenna headpin (or attach through the top center arch of the upper wing unit) onto the ear wire loop. Close the ear wire loop firmly.
Assembly checkpoint: the finished earring should hang freely with the body centered, wings splayed symmetrically, the turquoise bead visible at center front, and antennae angled upward and outward. The ear wire exits from the top center.
Size Customization Tips
Want to adjust the size? Here are your options.
- Larger butterflies: switch to size 3 crochet thread (bedspread weight) and a size 2 (2.2 mm) steel hook. Add one extra row to both wing units before the picot edging row. This yields a butterfly about 2.5 inches wide.
- Smaller butterflies: switch to size 20 crochet thread and a size 10 (1.30 mm) steel hook. Omit Row 3 and work the picot edging directly onto Row 2. This yields a miniature butterfly about 1.25 inches wide.
- Wider wings: work a lg-shell (7 dc) in place of a standard shell (5 dc) in the lower wing unit too.
Finishing and Blocking
Thread crochet pieces benefit hugely from wet blocking or starch stiffening. This step makes a real difference in the final look.
Method 1 (Wet Block): soak the finished crocheted butterfly (before attaching hardware) in cool water for 5 to 10 minutes. Gently squeeze out excess water in a clean towel. Pin the butterfly flat on a blocking board, spreading each wing lobe to its fullest natural shape. Let it dry completely, several hours or overnight.
Method 2 (Stiffening): mix 1 part craft glue with 1 part water. Dip the crocheted butterfly and wring gently. Pin into shape on a non-stick surface like wax paper. Let it dry completely. This method produces a stiffer earring that holds its shape better with wear and movement.
Once dry, attach all hardware as described above. Weave in any remaining thread ends securely with a tapestry needle before attaching hardware. Trim ends close to the fabric.
Care Instructions
Hand wash gently in cool water with mild soap if the earrings get soiled. Avoid submerging stiffened butterflies, since water may dissolve the craft glue stiffener.
Lay flat to dry. Do not tumble dry, iron, or use high heat.
Store in a small jewelry pouch or box to protect the antennae wire from bending out of shape. Gently reshape antennae with pliers if they get distorted.
Related Articles:
- Lavender Garden Butterfly Free Crochet Pattern
- Lavender Dreams Butterfly Crochet Dress Free Pattern
- Ocean Blue Butterfly Boho Bracelet Free Crochet Pattern
Final Thoughts
These Ocean Blue Butterfly Dangle Earrings are the kind of project that makes you fall in love with thread crochet. The wings come together quickly, the variegated thread creates stunning color transitions with zero effort, and the finished earrings are genuinely wearable.
IMO, they make wonderful gifts for butterfly lovers, jewelry fans, or anyone who appreciates handmade accessories. You could easily customize the colors to match a favorite outfit, or make a whole collection in different colorways.
Thank you so much for following along with this pattern. I hope you enjoy making these as much as I enjoyed sharing them. If you create your own pair, I would love to see them — tag Sumara Patterns on Instagram or share a photo in our Facebook group.
If this pattern is going to sit in your project queue for a bit, save it to your Pinterest boards so you can find it easily later. And please drop a comment below if you make these butterflies. I love hearing about your finished projects and seeing how you put your own spin on the design.
