This bag stops people in their tracks. The crossed lattice texture, those raised wildflowers, and the sweet tassels on the drawstring make it look like you scored it at a fancy craft market. Spoiler: you made it yourself.
Fair warning—this one takes some time. Think 18 to 25 hours spread out. But every hour feels worth it when you finally pull the finished bag from your project tote and watch the compliments roll in.
If you want a project that shows off your skills and gives you something pretty to carry or gift, this is it. Let’s get into the details.
What Makes This Bag Special
The whole thing works in the round from the bottom up in soft sage green. The real showstopper is the diagonal lattice texture. You create it with crossed double crochet stitches that form raised diamond shapes all over the surface.
Dimensional wildflowers in purple and cream get crocheted separately, then sewn on. They sit right at the lattice intersections and give that scattered garden feel. A twisted rope drawstring runs through the top eyelets, and two wrapped tassels with striped collars finish it off.
The shape is gently rounded—wider in the middle and a bit narrower at the base and top. Classic pouch vibes with a modern handmade twist.
Skill Level and Finished Size
This sits at intermediate to advanced intermediate. You should feel solid working in the round, keeping careful stitch counts, and handling front and back post style stitches. The flower appliques stay pretty straightforward once you get the hang of them.
Don’t let the level scare you off. If you’ve already made a few round projects and want to level up the texture, this is a great next step.
Finished size lands around 10 inches wide at the widest point by 11 inches tall (not counting the drawstring or tassels). Circumference at the widest point hits about 31 inches. In metric that’s roughly 25.5 cm by 28 cm with a 79 cm circumference.
Materials You’ll Need
YarnMain Color (MC): Sage green, about 400 yards / 366 meters of worsted weight (Category 4)
Color A (CA): Light purple or lavender, about 80 yards / 73 meters worsted
Color B (CB): Cream or off-white, about 80 yards / 73 meters worsted
Yarn ideas that work well:
- A comfy cotton blend for nice stitch definition and a soft sheen (2 skeins MC, 1 each of CA and CB)
- A budget-friendly DK held double for worsted gauge (about 4 skeins MC, 1 each of the others)
- A cotton aran for extra structure (3 skeins MC, 1 each of CA and CB)
Any smooth worsted with good stitch definition works. Skip fuzzy or highly textured yarns—they hide the lattice. Cotton or cotton blends give a firmer bag than pure acrylic.
Hooks
US H-8 / 5.0 mm for the bag body
US G-6 / 4.0 mm for the flowers
Notions
Stitch markers (at least 4)
Yarn needle
Scissors
About 2 yards / 1.8 meters cream worsted or cotton rope for the drawstring
Optional blocking mats and pins
Gauge and Abbreviations
With MC and the 5.0 mm hook in single crochet in the round:
16 stitches x 18 rounds = 4 inches / 10 cm square
Make a quick swatch: chain 20 and work single crochet back and forth for 22 rows. Block lightly and measure the center 4 inches. Gauge matters here because the lattice runs denser than plain sc. Change hooks if needed.
Abbreviations you’ll see:
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
sc2tog = single crochet two together
dc = double crochet
hdc = half double crochet
inc = increase (2 sc in same stitch)
BLO = back loop only
ch-sp = chain space
st(s) = stitch(es)
rnd = round
rep = repeat
Special Stitch: Crossed Double Crochet (CrDC)
This creates the diagonal lattice. Each unit covers two stitches.
Step 1: Skip the next stitch. Insert hook into the stitch after the skipped one. Yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, draw through 2, yarn over, draw through remaining 2. That’s one dc.
Step 2: Insert hook into the skipped stitch, working in front of the dc you just made. Complete another dc.
One CrDC unit equals two dc stitches over two positions with the left one crossing in front. It makes a left-leaning cross.
Step-by-Step Pattern Instructions
Section 1: Oval Flat Bottom
The base is an oval worked in the round for that wider, rounded bottom.
With MC and 5.0 mm hook, chain 13.
Round 1: Starting in the second chain from hook, work 1 sc in each of the next 11 chains. Work 3 sc in the last chain (turning end). Rotate and work along the opposite side of the foundation chain. Work 1 sc in each of the next 10 chains. Work 2 sc in the last chain. Join with sl st to first sc. (26 sc)
Round 2: Ch 1. Work 2 sc in first st (inc). Sc in next 10 sts. Work 2 sc in each of next 3 sts (3 incs at oval end). Sc in next 10 sts. Work 2 sc in each of next 2 sts. Join with sl st to first sc. (32 sc)
Round 3: Ch 1. Work (sc 1, inc) in first 2 sts. Sc in next 10 sts. Work (inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc) across next 5 sts. Sc in next 10 sts. Work (sc 1, inc) in next 2 sts. Join. (38 sc)
Round 4: Ch 1. Sc in first 2 sts. Inc in next st. Sc in next 10 sts. (Inc, sc 1) 3 times. Inc. Sc in next 10 sts. Inc in next st. Sc in last st. Join. (44 sc)
Round 5: Ch 1. Sc in first 3 sts. Inc in next st. Sc in next 10 sts. (Inc, sc 2) 3 times. Inc. Sc in next 10 sts. Inc in next st. Sc in last 2 sts. Join. (50 sc)
Round 6: Ch 1. Sc in first 4 sts. Inc in next st. Sc in next 10 sts. (Inc, sc 3) 3 times. Inc. Sc in next 10 sts. Inc in next st. Sc in last 3 sts. Join. (56 sc)
Round 7: Ch 1. Sc in first 5 sts. Inc in next st. Sc in next 10 sts. (Inc, sc 4) 3 times. Inc. Sc in next 10 sts. Inc in next st. Sc in last 4 sts. Join. (62 sc)
Round 8: Ch 1. Sc in first 6 sts. Inc in next st. Sc in next 10 sts. (Inc, sc 5) 3 times. Inc. Sc in next 10 sts. Inc in next st. Sc in last 5 sts. Join. (68 sc)
Checkpoint 1: After Round 8 the oval base should measure about 8 inches long and 5 inches wide.
Section 2: Sides, Plain Transition Rounds
These build a straight tube up from the oval base.
Round 9: Ch 1. Working in BLO only, sc in each st around. Join. (68 sc)
Round 10: Ch 1. Sc in each st around (both loops). Join. (68 sc)
Round 11: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (68 sc)
Working Round 9 in the back loop only creates a neat fold line at the base edge.
Checkpoint 2: After Round 11 the tube should sit about 1 inch tall above the base fold line.
Section 3: Body Shaping, Increase Section
The bag widens a bit from the base to its widest point.
Round 12: Ch 1. (Sc in next 16 sts, inc in next st) 4 times. Join. (72 sc)
Round 13: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (72 sc)
Round 14: Ch 1. (Sc in next 17 sts, inc in next st) 4 times. Join. (76 sc)
Round 15: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (76 sc)
Round 16: Ch 1. (Sc in next 18 sts, inc in next st) 4 times. Join. (80 sc)
Round 17: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (80 sc)
Round 18: Ch 1. (Sc in next 19 sts, inc in next st) 4 times. Join. (84 sc)
Round 19: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (84 sc)
Round 20: Ch 1. (Sc in next 20 sts, inc in next st) 4 times. Join. (88 sc)
Round 21: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (88 sc)
Count carefully—you need exactly 88 stitches before the lattice starts.
Checkpoint 3: After Round 21 the bag should measure about 4.5 inches tall from the fold line.
Section 4: Lattice Body Pattern
This is the fun part. Stitch count stays at 88 the whole way.
Round 22 (Lattice Round): Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch). Work CrDC across all sts as follows: (Skip next st, dc in next st, dc in skipped st) 44 times. Join with sl st to first dc. (88 sts)
Round 23: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (88 sc)
Round 24 (Offset Lattice Round): Ch 1. Sc in first st. Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch). Work CrDC across next 86 sts: (skip next st, dc in next st, dc in skipped st) 43 times. Sc in last st. Join. (88 sts)
Round 25: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (88 sc)
Repeat Rounds 22 through 25 for the lattice.
Rounds 26-29: Repeat Rounds 22-25.
Rounds 30-33: Repeat Rounds 22-25.
Rounds 34-37: Repeat Rounds 22-25.
Rounds 38-41: Repeat Rounds 22-25.
Checkpoint 4: After Round 41 the body should measure about 8.5 to 9 inches tall from the base fold line. Confirm you still have 88 stitches.
Section 5: Top Decrease Section
These rounds taper the bag a little at the top.
Round 42: Ch 1. (Sc in next 20 sts, sc2tog) 4 times. Join. (84 sc)
Round 43: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (84 sc)
Round 44: Ch 1. (Sc in next 19 sts, sc2tog) 4 times. Join. (80 sc)
Round 45: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (80 sc)
Round 46: Ch 1. (Sc in next 18 sts, sc2tog) 4 times. Join. (76 sc)
Round 47: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (76 sc)
Section 6: Drawstring Channel
Round 48 (Eyelet Round): Ch 1. (Sc in next 3 sts, ch 2, skip next 2 sts) 15 times. Sc in last st. Join. (46 sc + 15 ch-2 spaces = 76 stitch positions)
Round 49: Ch 1. (Sc in next 3 sc, work 2 sc into ch-2 sp) 15 times. Sc in last sc. Join. (76 sc)
Round 50: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (76 sc)
Round 51: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (76 sc)
Section 7: Top Ruffle Edging
This gives a lightly gathered look at the opening.
Round 52: Ch 1. (Sc in next st, inc in next st) 38 times. Join. (114 sc)
Round 53: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join. (114 sc)
Round 54: Ch 1. Hdc in each st around. Join. (114 hdc)
Round 55: Ch 1. Sl st in each st around. Fasten off and weave in end. (114 sl st)
Checkpoint 5: Finished bag body should measure about 11 inches tall and 10 inches wide at the widest point.
Flower Motifs
Make about 22 to 24 flowers total. The sample uses roughly 12 purple (CA) flowers with cream centers and 11 cream (CB) flowers with purple centers.
With 4.0 mm hook and your chosen petal color, make a magic ring.
Round 1: Ch 1. Work 10 sc into the magic ring. Pull ring closed. Join with sl st to first sc. (10 sc)
Round 2 (Petals): For each petal: sl st into next sc, ch 3, work 2 dc into the same stitch at the base of the ch-3, work 2 dc into the next sc, ch 3, sl st back into the same sc as the last dc. Repeat 5 times total for 5 petals. Join with sl st to base of first petal. (5 petals)
Round 3 (Center): Join center color into the center magic ring from the front. Work 5 sc into the center ring. Join. Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch tail for sewing.
Finished flowers measure about 1.25 to 1.5 inches across.
Assembly, Finishing, and Care
Blocking
Wet blocking is strongly recommended. Submerge the bag body in cool water, gently squeeze to saturate, and roll in a clean dry towel. Shape over a rounded form or stuff with plastic bags wrapped in a towel. Allow to dry completely for 24 to 48 hours.
Block flowers flat on a blocking mat, pinning each petal open while wet.
Flower Placement
Pin flowers to the body at the intersections of the lattice diamond pattern. Aim for the center of each diamond, not the lattice lines. Alternate CA and CB flowers across the surface.
Using the long yarn tails and a yarn needle, sew each flower with small invisible stitches. Don’t pull too tightly or the fabric will pucker.
Drawstring
Cut 4 lengths of cream yarn, each about 120 inches long. Fold in half so you have 8 working ends. Hold the looped end and attach to a fixed point.
Divide into 2 groups of 4 strands. Twist Group 1 tightly clockwise until it wants to kink. Do the same with Group 2. Hold both together and let them twist around each other counter-clockwise. Tie an overhand knot at each end.
Thread through the eyelet round, weaving in and out through all the ch-2 spaces.
Tassels
Make 2 tassels by winding cream yarn 35 times around a 3-inch piece of cardboard. Slip off and tie at the top. Attach to the drawstring ends. Wrap the tassel neck with alternating stripes of cream and sage green yarn for the striped collar effect. Trim the bottom evenly to about 2 inches.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap. Do not machine wash or tumble dry. Reshape while damp and air dry flat or stuffed. Do not bleach or iron directly.
Size Customization Tips
To make the bag taller: Work extra repeats of Rounds 22 through 25 before the decrease section. Each full repeat adds about 1 inch of height.
To make it wider: After Round 21, keep increasing by 4 stitches every 2 rounds for 2 to 4 more rounds before the lattice. Keep the total divisible by 8.
To make it smaller: Stop the increase section earlier—for example at Round 18 with 84 stitches.
Related Articles:
- Autumn Harvest Granny Square Handbag Free Crochet Pattern
- Ocean Blue Floral Granny Pouch Free Crochet Pattern
- Spring Garden Granny Square Tote Free Crochet Pattern
Final Thoughts
This bag is one of those projects that feels special from the first lattice round to the last tassel. The texture, the little flowers, the way it cinches closed—it all comes together into something you’ll actually want to use or gift.
Take your time with the stitch counts and the flower placement. The result is worth every minute. Happy crocheting from the Sumara Patterns team—can’t wait to see what you create!
