Want a wrap that stops people in their tracks? This sunset ombre butterfly wrap does exactly that. Soft gradients shift from deep rose through coral, peach, golden yellow, and cream, while the feather-and-fan stitch fans out into dramatic wing panels. Spread your arms and those wings open like real butterfly wings. Ready to make one?
What Makes This Butterfly Wrap Special
This piece drapes from your shoulders and opens into two symmetrical wing panels. The radiating stitch motifs create a layered, petal-like texture that looks good from every angle. A central spine of decorative picots runs down the back and neatly divides the two wings.
You work the entire wrap top-down in one flat piece. No seaming. The construction feels straightforward once you catch the rhythm of the increases and the feather-and-fan repeat. If you have finished a lace shawl before, you already own the skills for this project.
Finished measurements after blocking: wingspan stretches about 68 inches (173 cm) from tip to tip. Length from the top of the neckline to the hem at center back measures roughly 28 inches (71 cm).
Skill level: Advanced intermediate. You need comfort with long foundation rows, large stitch counts, and consistent lace repeats. Most makers finish it in 20 to 35 hours.
Materials You Will Need
Gather everything before you start so the color flow stays smooth.
Yarn: Approximately 1200 to 1400 yards (1097 to 1280 meters) of DK weight yarn (CYCA 3 Light) in a gradient colorway.
If you use a single gradient cake, aim for about 1300 yards.
If you prefer separate skeins:
- Color A (Deep Rose): approximately 200 yards (183 meters)
- Color B (Coral): approximately 250 yards (229 meters)
- Color C (Peach): approximately 250 yards (229 meters)
- Color D (Golden Yellow): approximately 250 yards (229 meters)
- Color E (Cream): approximately 300 yards (274 meters), includes the border
Hooks:
- US Size G-6 / 4.0 mm (primary hook for the body)
- US Size F-5 / 3.75 mm (optional, for tighter tension on the neckline rows)
Extra supplies:
- Tapestry needle for weaving ends
- Rust-proof blocking pins (at least 50)
- Blocking mats or foam boards
- 6 locking stitch markers
- Scissors
Yarn suggestions: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK in a gradient set works well and keeps stitch definition crisp. WeCrochet Chroma DK comes in convenient gradient cakes that block beautifully. Lion Brand Pound of Love in coordinated tones stays budget-friendly and machine-washable. Skip fuzzy or heavily textured yarns—they hide the feather-and-fan detail.
Gauge and Why It Matters
18 stitches and 10 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in the feather and fan pattern, blocked, using US G-6 / 4.0 mm hook and DK weight yarn.
Chain 40 and work the feather and fan stitch for 14 rows. Fasten off, wet block the swatch, and measure the center 4 inches once it dries.
Gauge controls the final size. Going up half a hook size can add 4 to 6 inches to the wingspan. Check it before you commit to the full project.
Abbreviations and Special Stitches
Here is every abbreviation you will meet:
- beg: beginning
- ch: chain
- ch-sp: chain space
- dc: double crochet
- dec: decrease
- dec-cl: decrease cluster (3 dc worked together into 3 consecutive stitches)
- hdc: half double crochet
- inc: increase
- lp(s): loop(s)
- rem: remaining
- rep: repeat
- RS: right side
- sc: single crochet
- sk: skip
- sl st: slip stitch
- sp(s): space(s)
- st(s): stitch(es)
- t-ch: turning chain
- tog: together
- tr: treble crochet
- WS: wrong side
- yo: yarn over
Feather and Fan Unit
This stitch creates the radiating petal look that defines the whole wrap. It works over a multiple of 18 stitches plus 2 edge stitches.
Step 1: Work a 3-dc cluster over the next 3 stitches: yo, insert hook in next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops. Repeat in the next 2 stitches, then yo and pull through all 4 loops on the hook.
Step 2: Ch 2, skip 0 stitches, dc in next stitch.
Step 3: (dc in next st, ch 1) 5 times, dc in next st. This forms the open fan.
Step 4: Work another 3-dc cluster over the next 3 stitches to close the fan.
Picot: Ch 3, sl st in the 3rd chain from the hook.
Shell: (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) all in the same stitch or space.
V-Stitch (V-st): (dc, ch 2, dc) all in the same stitch or space.
Increase Fan (inc-fan): Work (dc, ch 1) 5 times then dc all into the same stitch or space (6 dc total with 5 ch-1 spaces).
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
Read these once so you avoid frogging later.
- The wrap works from the top down, starting at the center back neckline.
- Four increase points stay active the whole time: far left edge, left wing-to-spine junction, right wing-to-spine junction, and far right edge. You add 8 stitches every RS row (2 at each point).
- The center spine runs vertically from neckline to hem and separates the two wings.
- The yoke (first 10 rows) uses a V-stitch mesh for open lace at the shoulders.
- The main body (rows 11 through 56) uses the feather and fan pattern.
- Color transitions if using separate skeins: Color A (Rose) Rows 1-10, Color B (Coral) Rows 11-22, Color C (Peach) Rows 23-34, Color D (Golden Yellow) Rows 35-46, Color E (Cream) Rows 47-56 plus all border rows. Change color by working the last stitch until 2 loops remain, then draw the new color through both loops.
- WS rows work even with no increases.
- Place stitch markers at all four increase points and move them up as you go.
- All rows turn at the end. Ch 3 counts as the first dc throughout.
Step-by-Step Instructions
Yoke Section (Rows 1 through 10, Color A)
Foundation: With Color A and G-6 hook, chain 78.
Row 1 (RS): Dc in 4th ch from hook (ch-3 counts as first dc). Dc in each ch across. Turn. (76 dc)
Row 2 (WS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next 2 sts, ch 2, sk 2 sts, (V-st in next st, ch 1, sk 2 sts) 23 times, V-st in next st, ch 2, sk 2 sts, dc in last 3 sts. Turn. (24 V-sts, plus 6 edge dc)
Place stitch markers in the two ch-2 spaces near each edge. These mark your future increase junction points.
Row 3 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next 2 dc, (3 dc in ch-2 sp, V-st in ch-2 sp of next V-st, ch 1) across to last edge section, 3 dc in final ch-2 sp, dc in last 3 sts. Increase 8 sts evenly across (2 sts at each marker point). (84 sts)
Row 4 (WS): Work even in V-st mesh pattern. (84 sts)
Row 5 (RS): Increase 8 sts at 4 marker points. (92 sts)
Row 6 (WS): Work even. (92 sts)
Row 7 (RS): Increase 8 sts at 4 marker points. (100 sts)
Row 8 (WS): Work even. (100 sts)
Row 9 (RS): Increase 8 sts at 4 marker points. (108 sts)
Row 10 (WS): Work even in V-st mesh. Transition to Color B at final yo of last st if using separate skeins. (108 sts)
Checkpoint: The piece should measure approximately 4 inches (10 cm) from the foundation edge and span approximately 24 inches (61 cm) across.
Body Section (Rows 11 through 56, Colors B through E)
Now the feather and fan pattern begins. At row 11 your 108-stitch count divides evenly into 6 complete repeats.
Row 11 (RS, Color B): Ch 3 (counts as dc).
Edge: dc in first 2 sts.
Feather and fan sequence: (dec-cl over next 3 sts, ch 2, dc in next st, (ch 1, dc in next st) 5 times, ch 2, dec-cl over next 3 sts) 5 times, dec-cl over next 3 sts, ch 2, dc in next st, (ch 1, dc in next st) 5 times, ch 2, dec-cl over next 3 sts.
Edge: dc in last 2 sts.
At the two center-spine markers, work an additional (ch 2, dc, ch 2) cluster. At the two edge markers, work 2 dc instead of the standard dec-cl. (116 sts)
Row 12 (WS): Ch 3, dc in each st and ch-1 sp across. Do not dc into the larger ch-2 spaces at spine junctions; instead ch 2 over those. (116 sts)
Continue the feather and fan pattern with increases at the 4 marked positions on every RS row:
Rows 13-22: Continue pattern as established.
Row 13: (124 sts)
Row 14: (124 sts)
Row 15: (132 sts)
Row 16: (132 sts)
Row 17: (140 sts)
Row 18: (140 sts)
Row 19: (148 sts)
Row 20: (148 sts)
Row 21: (156 sts)
Row 22: Transition to Color C. (156 sts)
Checkpoint after Row 22: Piece should measure approximately 10 to 11 inches (25 to 28 cm) from neckline. Wingspan should be approximately 35 inches (89 cm).
Rows 23-34 (Color C):
Row 23: (164 sts)
Row 24: (164 sts)
Row 25: (172 sts)
Row 26: (172 sts)
Row 27: (180 sts)
Row 28: (180 sts)
Row 29: (188 sts)
Row 30: (188 sts)
Row 31: (196 sts)
Row 32: (196 sts)
Row 33: (204 sts)
Row 34: Transition to Color D. (204 sts)
Checkpoint after Row 34: Piece should measure approximately 15 to 16 inches (38 to 41 cm). Wingspan should be approximately 46 inches (117 cm).
Rows 35-46 (Color D):
Row 35: (212 sts)
Row 36: (212 sts)
Row 37: (220 sts)
Row 38: (220 sts)
Row 39: (228 sts)
Row 40: (228 sts)
Row 41: (236 sts)
Row 42: (236 sts)
Row 43: (244 sts)
Row 44: (244 sts)
Row 45: (252 sts)
Row 46: Transition to Color E. (252 sts)
Checkpoint after Row 46: Piece should measure approximately 21 to 22 inches (53 to 56 cm). Wingspan should be approximately 57 inches (145 cm).
Rows 47-56 (Color E):
Row 47: (260 sts)
Row 48: (260 sts)
Row 49: (268 sts)
Row 50: (268 sts)
Row 51: (276 sts)
Row 52: (276 sts)
Row 53: (284 sts)
Row 54: (284 sts)
Row 55: (292 sts)
Row 56: Do not fasten off. (292 sts)
Final checkpoint: Piece should measure approximately 27 to 28 inches (69 to 71 cm) from neckline. Wingspan should be approximately 65 to 66 inches (165 to 168 cm) before the border.
Border
The border uses two passes in Color E.
Border Round 1 (foundation): With RS facing, join yarn at bottom right corner of right front edge. Ch 1.
Right front edge: Sc evenly up the right front edge, approximately 1 sc per row end (approximately 56 sc). Place marker at top right corner.
Neckline: Sc across the foundation chain edge (76 sc). Place markers at each top corner.
Left front edge: Sc evenly down (approximately 56 sc). Place marker at bottom left corner.
Hem: Sc across the lower hem, working 1 sc into each st and each ch-1 sp (approximately 292 sc). Work 3 sc into each corner wingtip. Sl st to first sc. (Approximately 482 sc total)
Border Round 2 (picot-shell edging): With RS facing, sl st to first sc of right front edge.
Shell-picot sequence: (sk 2 sc, shell in next sc, sk 2 sc, sc in next sc) around entire perimeter.
At the neckline: (sc in next sc, picot, sc in next sc) across.
At each wingtip corner: work 2 shells separated by a picot.
Continue up the left front edge to mirror the right. Sl st to first st to close. Fasten off.
Center Spine Picot Column
Add this decorative line after the main body is complete.
With Color E, work a surface slip stitch chain along the center spine ch-2 spaces from neckline to hem.
Insert hook into first spine ch-2 sp at neckline, draw up a loop of Color E, (ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook to form picot, sl st into next spine ch-2 sp) down the entire column. Fasten off. Repeat on the opposite face.
Size Customization Tips
To make smaller: Work fewer body rows and stop when you reach the length you want. Each pair of rows adds roughly 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) in length and 0.9 inch (2.3 cm) in wingspan.
To make larger: Continue the feather and fan rows beyond Row 56. Budget about 50 extra yards per color section.
To adjust width: Increase the starting foundation chain by a multiple of 18 for each extra feather and fan repeat.
Finishing and Blocking
Weave in all yarn ends securely—at least 2 inches in one direction, then back. Trim close.
Wet blocking is strongly recommended:
- Submerge the wrap in cool water with gentle wool wash. Press gently to saturate. Do not wring.
- Roll in a clean dry towel and press firmly to remove excess water.
- Lay on blocking mats, RS up. Pin the center neckline first, then the two front edges. Pin the wingtips out to the full 68-inch span. Pin the hem edge and gently stretch the scallops.
- Allow to dry completely, 12 to 24 hours.
- Remove pins. Your feather and fan pattern should now open fully and look stunning.
Care instructions:
For superwash wool or wool-blend: Hand wash in cool water with gentle wool wash. Lay flat to dry.
For acrylic or acrylic blend: Machine wash on gentle cycle in a mesh bag. Tumble dry on low or lay flat.
Do not hang to dry. Do not iron directly. Store folded flat or rolled.
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Final Thoughts
You just created a wearable piece of sunset art. The moment you spread your arms and watch those ombre wings open, every stitch feels worth it. Wear it to the farmers market, a summer evening out, or simply around the house when you want to feel a little extra. Happy crocheting from Sumara Patterns!
