You know that moment when your favorite hoodie comes out of the wash looking like it belonged to a toddler? Yeah, that happened to me last fall. I stared at the sad, shrunken mess and decided I could whip up something way better. Something cropped, breathable, and full of those warm earthy tones that scream autumn without trying too hard.
This mesh cropped hoodie uses classic granny clusters in a modern, airy way. The colors move from burnt terracotta through caramel and taupe into soft cream. It looks polished but feels handmade in the best sense. Ready to grab your hook?
Why This Cropped Hoodie Belongs in Your Closet
This piece hits that sweet spot between cozy and lightweight. The granny mesh fabric lets air move through, so you can layer it over tanks or tees without overheating. Perfect for those in-between weather days when a full sweater feels like too much.
The fit stays relaxed and a little oversized. That makes it forgiving if your gauge drifts a bit, and it sits right above the natural waist. Pair it with high-waisted jeans or linen pants and you get that effortless look. Ribbed cuffs and hem give it structure so it does not flop around. The hood with a simple drawstring adds a casual athletic vibe that keeps the whole thing current.
What makes the stripes work so well? You just switch colors at the start of rounds. No complicated colorwork. The gradient does the heavy lifting and the fabric catches the light in a really pretty way.
Skill Level and How Long It Takes
Call this one intermediate. You need to feel comfortable working in the round, joining pieces, handling color changes, and picking up stitches. If you have already made a sweater or cardigan, you can handle this without stress. First garment? Take it slow and trust the process.
Plan for about 25 to 40 hours total. Break it up. Finish the body one week, sleeves the next, then the yoke and hood. It feels way more doable that way. FYI, rushing the color changes usually leads to more frogging later.
Materials You Need
Gather everything first so you can settle in and enjoy the rhythm of the stitches.
Yarn
You need worsted weight yarn (size 4) in six colors. Choose smooth or lightly twisted yarn so the granny mesh shows clearly. Total yardage runs about 1,400 yards or 1,280 meters across all colors.
Color A (Burnt Terracotta/Rust): 280 yards / 256 meters
Color B (Warm Caramel/Tan): 200 yards / 183 meters
Color C (Warm Taupe/Gray-Brown): 200 yards / 183 meters
Color D (Cream/Off-White): 300 yards / 274 meters
Color E (Medium Brown/Mushroom): 200 yards / 183 meters
Color F (Dusty Rose-Taupe): 100 yards / 91 meters
Colors E and F show up mostly on the sleeves and cuffs. Color D takes over the upper body and hood.
Good options include Lion Brand Pound of Love in terracotta, caramel, taupe, cream, and mushroom shades. Paintbox Yarns Simply DK worked doubled also gives a solid worsted weight with rich earthy neutrals. Or try a wool yarn with a soft halo if you want extra texture. Skip highly textured or bouclé yarns. They hide the mesh pattern.
Hooks and Notions
US Size J-10 / 6.0 mm for the main body and hood
US Size I-9 / 5.5 mm for the ribbed cuffs and hem band
You also need stitch markers (at least 8), a tapestry needle, scissors, about 60 inches / 152 cm of Color D yarn or cotton cord for the drawstring, plus blocking mats and pins.
Gauge and Finished Measurements
Gauge matters here. Do not skip the swatch if you want a hoodie that actually fits.
Main Stitch Gauge (granny mesh, worked in the round):
3 granny clusters x 4 rounds = 4 inches / 10 cm square
Ribbing Gauge (single crochet ribbing worked flat):
14 single crochet = 4 inches / 10 cm with the smaller hookToo big? Drop a hook size. Too small? Go up one.
This pattern is written for size Small/Medium with notes for adjustments.
Finished Bust: 40 inches / 102 cm (designed for 32 to 38 inch bust with 4 to 6 inches positive ease)
Finished Length (hem to underarm): 9 inches / 23 cm
Finished Length (hem to shoulder): approximately 16 inches / 41 cm
Sleeve Length (cuff to underarm): 14 inches / 35.5 cm
Hood Height: 11 inches / 28 cm
Hood Width: 12 inches / 30.5 cm
Abbreviations and Special Stitches
Here is every abbreviation used so you can keep this section open while you work.
beg: beginning
ch: chain
ch-sp: chain space
dc: double crochet
GC: granny cluster
hdc: half double crochet
pm: place marker
rep: repeat
rnd: round
RS: right side
sc: single crochet
sk: skip
sl st: slip stitch
sm: slip marker
sp: space
st(s): stitch(es)
t-ch: turning chain
WS: wrong side
yo: yarn over
Granny Cluster (GC)
Work 3 double crochet stitches into the same stitch or space. When the pattern says “GC into ch-sp,” insert your hook into the chain space (not the chain itself) and complete three full double crochets there.
Granny Mesh Round (worked in the round)
Start with chain 3 (counts as first dc of the first GC), then 2 dc into the same space. Then work [ch 1, skip to next ch-sp, GC into next ch-sp] around. End with ch 1 and slip stitch to the top of the beginning ch-3.
Granny Mesh Row (worked flat, for hood)
RS row: Ch 4 (counts as dc plus ch 1), turn. GC into first ch-sp, [ch 1, GC into next ch-sp] across to last ch-sp, ch 1, dc into top of turning chain. Turn.
WS row: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), turn. 2 dc into first ch-sp (completes first GC), [ch 1, GC into next ch-sp] across, dc into top of turning chain. Turn.
Single Crochet Ribbing
Chain the required number. Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and each ch across. Turn. Row 2 onward: Ch 1, sc in the back loop only of each sc across. Turn. Repeat Row 2.
Pattern Notes and Stripe Sequences
Read these before you start. They save headaches later.
- The body works as a seamless tube in the round from the hem upward. You add the ribbed hem band at the end by picking up stitches.
- The granny mesh creates an open fabric. Block it well before seaming so the holes open up nicely.
- Change colors at the beginning of a round or row. Carry unused yarn loosely inside when you reuse it within two rounds. Otherwise cut and rejoin.
- The ch-3 at the start of each round counts as the first dc of the first GC only when the instructions say so.
- The starting chain for the body must be a multiple of 6.
- Stitch counts in parentheses show the total GC units followed by the total chain spaces.
Stripe Sequence for Body (Bottom to Top)
Rounds 1 to 4: Color A (rust)
Rounds 5 to 6: Color B (caramel)
Rounds 7 to 8: Color C (taupe)
Rounds 9 to 12: Color D (cream)
Rounds 13 to 14: Color C (taupe)
Rounds 15 to 16: Color B (caramel)
Rounds 17 to 20: Color A (rust)
The yoke continues in Color A at the underarm, then moves through B, C, and D toward the neck.
Stripe Sequence for Sleeves (Cuff to Underarm)
Rounds 1 to 4: Color A (rust)
Rounds 5 to 6: Color B (caramel)
Rounds 7 to 8: Color E (mushroom brown)
Rounds 9 to 10: Color C (taupe)
Rounds 11 to 14: Color D (cream)
Step-by-Step Instructions
Ribbed Hem Band
Work this first as a long rectangle in single crochet ribbing, then seam it into a tube.
Using smaller hook and Color A, ch 9.
Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (8 sc)
Rows 2 onward: Ch 1, sc in back loop only of each sc across. Turn. (8 sc)
Continue until the band measures 40 inches / 102 cm long, about 140 rows. Seam the short ends with mattress stitch or slip stitch to form a tube. Set aside.
Body
Join larger hook and Color A to the seam of the ribbed hem band.
Setup Round: Work 60 sc evenly around the top edge of the ribbed hem band. Join with sl st. Do not turn. (60 sc)
Check the count. 60 sc gives 10 GC units per round.
Round 1 (establish granny mesh): Ch 3 (counts as first dc of first GC here and throughout body rounds). 2 dc in same st as join (first GC complete). [Ch 1, sk 2 sc, GC in next sc] 9 times. Ch 1, sk 2 sc, sl st to top of beg ch-3 to join. (10 GC, 10 ch-1 sp)
Round 2: Sl st into next ch-1 sp. Ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-1 sp (first GC). [Ch 1, GC in next ch-1 sp] 9 times. Ch 1, sl st to top of beg ch-3. (10 GC, 10 ch-1 sp)
Rounds 3 and 4: Repeat Round 2 in Color A.
Round 5: Join Color B with sl st into any ch-1 sp. Ch 3, 2 dc in same sp. [Ch 1, GC in next ch-1 sp] 9 times. Ch 1, sl st to top of beg ch-3.
Round 6: Repeat Round 5 in Color B.
Round 7: Join Color C. Work as Round 2.
Round 8: Repeat in Color C.
Round 9: Join Color D. Work as Round 2.
Rounds 10 through 12: Continue in Color D.
Round 13: Join Color C. Work as Round 2.
Round 14: Continue in Color C.
Round 15: Join Color B. Work as Round 2.
Round 16: Continue in Color B.
Round 17: Join Color A. Work as Round 2.
Rounds 18 through 20: Continue in Color A.
After Round 20 the body tube should measure about 9 inches / 23 cm in height from the base of the mesh. Circumference should sit around 40 inches / 102 cm. Do not cut yarn yet.
Divide for Front and Back Yoke
The tube has 10 GC units and 10 ch-1 spaces. Front and back each take 5 GC units.
Mark the ch-1 space between GC 5 and GC 6 as the first underarm. Mark the ch-1 space between GC 10 and GC 1 as the second underarm. Set the body aside and work the sleeves.
Sleeves (Make 2)
Ribbed Cuffs
Using smaller hook and Color A, ch 9.
Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and each ch across. Turn. (8 sc)
Row 2 onward: Ch 1, sc in back loop only across. Turn. (8 sc)
Work until cuff measures 8 inches / 20.5 cm, about 28 rows. Seam short ends into a tube. Set aside.
Sleeve Body
With larger hook and Color A, join yarn to the seam of the cuff.
Sleeve Setup Round: Work 36 sc evenly around the top edge of the cuff. Join with sl st. (36 sc)
36 sc sets up 6 GC per round.
Sleeve Round 1: Ch 3, 2 dc in same st. [Ch 1, sk 2 sc, GC in next sc] 5 times. Ch 1, sk 2 sc, sl st to top of beg ch-3. (6 GC, 6 ch-1 sp)
Sleeve Round 2: Sl st into first ch-1 sp. Ch 3, 2 dc in same sp. [Ch 1, GC in next ch-1 sp] 5 times. Ch 1, sl st to top of beg ch-3.
Sleeve Rounds 1 to 4: Color A, work as Sleeve Round 2 without increases.
Sleeve Round 5 (increase): Join Color B. Sl st into first ch-1 sp. Ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, ch 1, GC in same sp (adds 1 GC). [Ch 1, GC in next ch-1 sp] 5 times. Ch 1, sl st to top of beg ch-3. (7 GC, 7 ch-1 sp)
Sleeve Round 6: Continue in Color B.
Sleeve Round 7 (increase): Join Color E. Work increase as Round 5. (8 GC, 8 ch-1 sp)
Sleeve Round 8: Continue in Color E.
Sleeve Round 9: Join Color C. Work as Sleeve Round 2, no increase.
Sleeve Round 10: Continue in Color C.
Sleeve Rounds 11 through 14: Join Color D. Work as Sleeve Round 2, no increase.
The sleeve should measure about 14 inches / 35.5 cm from the top of the cuff. Top circumference around 13.5 inches / 34 cm. Do not fasten off. Make the second sleeve the same way.
Join Sleeves to Body for Yoke
Body has 10 GC. Each sleeve has 8 GC. Total before underarm skips: 26 GC. Skip 1 ch-1 sp from body and 1 from each sleeve at the underarms. Adjusted start: 22 GC, 22 ch-1 sp.
With Color A continuing from the body, start at the right front underarm join point.
Yoke Row 1 (RS): Work across front: GC into each of the 5 front body ch-1 sp, ch 1 between. Bridge underarm with ch 1. Work across right sleeve: GC into each of the 8 sleeve ch-1 sp. Bridge next underarm. Work across back: GC into each of the 5 back body ch-1 sp. Bridge. Work across left sleeve: GC into each of the 8 sleeve ch-1 sp. End with ch 1, dc into top of starting ch. Turn.
Mark the 4 raglan points (between front and sleeve, sleeve and back, back and other sleeve, sleeve and front).
Yoke Row 2 (WS, no decrease): Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch-1). Turn. [GC into next ch-1 sp, ch 1] across, dc into top of t-ch. Turn.
Yoke Row 3 (RS, decrease row): Ch 4, turn. Work across, skipping the ch-1 sp at each of the 4 raglan markers. (22 GC)
Yoke Row 4 (WS, no decrease): Continue as established.
Yoke Row 5 (RS, decrease row): Decrease at 4 raglan points. (18 GC)
Yoke Row 6 (WS, no decrease)
Yoke Row 7 (RS, decrease row): (14 GC)
Yoke Row 8 (WS, no decrease)
Yoke Row 9 (RS, decrease row): (10 GC)
Yoke Row 10 (WS, no decrease)
Color changes for yoke: Rows 1–2 Color A, 3–4 Color B, 5–6 Color C, 7–10 Color D.
After Yoke Row 10 the neckline should span about 12 inches / 30.5 cm with 10 GC units. Yoke height from underarm about 7 inches / 18 cm.
Hood
With larger hook and Color D, work a foundation row of sc across the top of the yoke neckline.
Hood Foundation Row: Sc evenly into every available stitch and ch-sp. Aim for about 60 sc. Turn.
Hood Row 1 (RS): Ch 3, 2 dc in same st (first GC). [Ch 1, sk 2 sc, GC in next sc] 9 times. Ch 1, dc in last sc. Turn. (10 GC, 10 ch-1 sp)
Hood Row 2 (WS): Ch 4. [GC in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 9 times. GC in last ch-1 sp, dc into top of t-ch. Turn.
Hood Rows 3 through 16: Alternate RS and WS rows as established. Stay in Color D.
At Hood Row 16 the hood should measure about 20 inches / 51 cm wide when flat and 11 inches / 28 cm tall.
Fold the hood in half along the top edge. Seam across the top with sl st through both layers on the WS. Turn right side out.
Work one round of sc evenly around the front opening of the hood (about 1 sc per dc and 1 sc per ch-1 sp). Join and fasten off.
For the drawstring channel, work surface slip stitches about 1 inch down from the front edge on each side, or simply weave the cord through the existing ch-1 spaces. Thread the 60-inch cord through and knot the ends.
Finishing and Size Tips
Weave in all ends securely on the wrong side, working them through the structure of the mesh. Seam the underarms with slip stitch or mattress stitch, aligning the skipped ch-1 spaces and working a few stitches to secure.
Wet block by soaking in cool water for 20 minutes, pressing out excess water in a towel, then pinning to the finished measurements. Let it dry fully (24 to 48 hours).
To go up one size (Large/XL): Hem band 44 inches / 112 cm, setup 66 sc (11 GC). Add one extra GC unit and one extra increase round to each sleeve.
To go down one size (XS/S): Hem band 36 inches / 91 cm, setup 54 sc (9 GC). Reduce sleeve top to 7 GC.
Add extra granny mesh rounds before the underarm divide to lengthen the body. Each two rounds adds about 1 inch. Lengthen sleeves by adding rounds after the cuff setup.
For acrylic, machine wash cold on gentle and lay flat to dry. For wool, hand wash in cool water with wool wash. Fold for storage so the mesh does not stretch.
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Ready to Wear Your New Favorite Hoodie?
There is something really satisfying about watching those earthy stripes build round after round. The first time you slip this on and feel the perfect cropped length with the airy mesh is pure joy.
I hope you enjoy making this as much as I did designing the original idea. Share your finished piece with the Sumara Patterns community if you feel like it. Pin this pattern so it is ready when your next free weekend rolls around. Happy hooking!
