Picture a little girl twirling in a soft lavender coat that looks like it fluttered straight out of a storybook. This free crochet pattern delivers a knee-length hooded coat with textured basket-weave panels, a flared A-line skirt, bell sleeves finished with scallops, and sweet butterfly appliques that perch on the hood and hip. You work it in pieces, seam everything at the end, and end up with something that feels both practical for chilly days and pure magic. Ready to hook one up?
Why You Will Love This Crochet Pattern
This coat hits that sweet spot between cozy and whimsical. The basket-weave bodice gives serious structure and that woven look that makes people ask how long it took you, while the single-crochet skirt swings with easy A-line movement.
Those butterfly appliques? Pure charm without going overboard. One lands on the hood like it just settled there, and the other peeks from the hip. Four sizes mean you can make it for a three-year-old or a six-year-old without rewriting the whole thing. IMO, that flexibility alone makes it worth the yarn.
You get a piece that works as a gift or a keep-forever wardrobe staple. And yes, it actually keeps kids warm.
Skill Level
Call this advanced beginner to intermediate. You need comfort with front and back post stitches because the basket-weave lives on them. Shaping stays straightforward once those posts click.
Never tried post stitches? Make a tiny practice square first. The rhythm settles in fast and turns almost calming. If you have already finished a couple of garments, you are good to go.
Time Estimate
Budget 15 to 22 hours total, seams and butterflies included. Break it into one- or two-hour sessions and most makers wrap it in about two weeks. Perfect weekend project if you stay consistent.
Finished Sizes for This Crochet Tutorial
The pattern covers four sizes with clear parenthetical adjustments:
- Size 3T: chest 22 in / 56 cm, length 20 in / 51 cm, sleeve 10.5 in / 27 cm
- Size 4T: chest 23 in / 58.5 cm, length 21 in / 53.5 cm, sleeve 11 in / 28 cm
- Size 5T: chest 24 in / 61 cm, length 22 in / 56 cm, sleeve 11.5 in / 29 cm
- Size 6: chest 25 in / 63.5 cm, length 23 in / 58.5 cm, sleeve 12 in / 30.5 cm
Instructions start with 3T and list the rest in parentheses. Measure the kid first so you pick the right one.
Materials Needed
Grab worsted-weight yarn, two hooks, and a few basics:
- Yarn A (main lavender): about 900–1200 yards depending on size
- Yarn B (white or cream for trim and butterflies): roughly 80 yards
- US G-6 / 4 mm hook for bodice and sleeves
- US H-8 / 5 mm hook for skirt and hood (extra drape)
- Four wooden shank buttons around 5/8 inch
- Yarn needle, stitch markers, scissors, pins for blocking, sewing needle and thread for buttons
Nothing fancy. Just solid supplies that let the texture shine.
Yarn Suggestions
Go for smooth, plied yarns that show off post stitches. Lion Brand Pound of Love in a soft purple delivers great definition and washes easily. Paintbox Simply DK doubled works if you want budget softness. Cascade 220 Superwash gives that polished, drapey finish that feels heirloom-ready.
Skip fuzzy or halo yarns. They hide the basket-weave. Always check yardage and swatch first. FYI, color consistency matters when the coat spans several skeins.
Gauge
Basket-weave with the G-6: 18 stitches and 14 rows equal 4 inches. Single crochet with the H-8: 16 stitches and 18 rows equal 4 inches.
Swatch, wash, and block before you trust the numbers. Garment fit lives or dies here. Adjust hooks if needed and keep tension even.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
You will see the usual suspects: ch, dc, sc, hdc, FPdc, BPdc, sc2tog, dc2tog, sl st, and the rest. Keep a quick reference nearby if post stitches still feel new. Turning chains do not count as stitches unless the pattern says otherwise.
Special Stitches Explained
Basket-Weave Panel
Alternate columns of four front-post and four back-post double crochets. The setup row is plain double crochet. Then you switch posts every four stitches and reverse on the wrong-side rows. It creates that woven fabric look without complicated cables.
Scallop Trim
Join the contrast yarn, single crochet, skip one, work five double crochets in the next stitch, skip one, single crochet, and repeat. Instant pretty edge for hems and cuffs. Make sure the edge stitch count divides by four for clean shells.
Front and Back Post Double Crochet
For FPdc insert the hook from front around the post. For BPdc come from the back. Yarn over and complete the double crochet as usual. Practice until the posts sit neatly.
Decreases stay simple: sc2tog or dc2tog when you need to shape.
Butterfly Applique Instructions
Each butterfly uses small and large wing pairs plus a simple body bar. Work the wings in the round from a magic ring, building petals with single and half-double crochet. Join the flat edges, wrap the body chain around the center, and curl the top for tiny antennae.
Make a smaller version for the hood and a larger one for the hip. A touch of contrast yarn adds extra sparkle if you want. Attach them after the coat is seamed so placement looks intentional.
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
Work everything flat: back and front bodices, skirt panels, two sleeves, and the hood. Block each piece, then seam. The bodice stays structured on the smaller hook; the skirt and hood use the larger hook for soft drape.
Sleeves get their bell shape from increases near the cuff. Button bands go on last. Place buttons on the right front for traditional girls’ styling. Wet-block everything—it transforms the texture and the flare.
Count stitches often, especially while the basket-weave is building. Markers are your friends.
How to Crochet the Back Bodice
Chain the foundation for your size and work a setup double-crochet row. Then launch into the alternating post-stitch pattern. Keep the stitch count steady until the piece reaches the right height for the armholes.
Armhole Shaping
Slip-stitch across the underarm stitches, continue the basket-weave across the center, and leave the same number unworked on the other side. A couple of decrease rows shape the armhole cleanly, then work even to the shoulder.
Shoulder and Neck Shaping
Split for the shoulders, work a few even rows on each, and leave the center stitches open for the neck. Fasten off. Both fronts mirror this logic with neck shaping added on the center edge.
How to Crochet the Right Front Bodice and Left Front Bodice
Each front is roughly half the back width. Work the same basket-weave height, shape the armhole on the side seam edge, then decrease gradually at the neck edge until the shoulder stitch count matches the back. Reverse the shaping for the left front so the button band sits correctly.
Check that both fronts match the back height before you move on.
How to Crochet the Back Skirt and Front Skirt Panels
Switch to the larger hook. Start with a single-crochet foundation at the waist and increase at the edges every right-side row to build the A-line flare. Work even once you hit the target stitch count, then add the scallop trim in the contrast color.
Front panels increase only on the side seam edge so the center front stays straight. Match the back length and finish with matching scallops.
How to Crochet the Sleeves (Make 2)
Start with basket-weave on the smaller hook for the upper sleeve. After a few rows, switch to the larger hook and single crochet, increasing at both edges to create the bell flare. Work to the finished length, adjust the final count for clean scallops, and add the trim.
Shape the sleeve cap by decreasing at both ends until it fits the armhole. Seam the underarm later.
Assembly and Finishing
Block every piece first. Seam the shoulders, attach the skirt panels at the waist, then join the side seams from underarm to hem. Set in the sleeves, matching the cap center to the shoulder. Add the button bands, work the buttonholes, sew on the buttons with regular sewing thread for security, and stitch the butterflies in place.
Weave the ends and give the whole coat one final light block. Done.
Tips for Success with This Beginner Friendly Pattern
Count every row—post stitches love to hide. Park stitch markers at the edges and at pattern repeats. Practice those FPdc and BPdc on a swatch until they feel automatic. Block generously; the coat rewards it. And take breaks so your tension stays even.
Work in short sessions and the hours disappear faster than you expect.
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FAQ’s
Can I use a different yarn weight?
Stick with worsted. Changing weight throws off the gauge and the finished size. If you must substitute, match the yardage and swatch carefully.
What if I have never done post stitches?
Make a four-inch practice square first. Once the front-to-back rhythm clicks, the bodice flies. You will thank yourself later.
How do I keep the butterflies from flopping?
Sew them firmly through several layers and weave the tails well. A tiny bit of fabric glue on the back (hidden) works if you want extra security for active kids.
Is the coat warm enough for real winter?
With a light layer underneath, yes. The basket-weave traps air and the length covers well. For deeper cold, choose a wool-blend yarn.
Can I skip the hood?
You can, but the hood plus the little butterfly is half the charm. If you omit it, just finish the neckline with a simple single-crochet edge.
How do I wash the finished coat?
Follow the yarn label. Most acrylic options handle a gentle machine wash and lay-flat dry. Wool versions prefer hand wash.
Final Thoughts
You end up with a coat that feels special every time a kid pulls it on. The texture, the swingy skirt, and those butterflies create something that looks far more complicated than the stitches actually are. Grab your hooks, pick a soft lavender, and start the foundation chain. You will love watching it come together.
