Last summer I stood in the yarn shop clutching a skein of sage green cotton with zero plan. That yarn lived in my stash for months until a farmer’s market run forced the issue. I needed a bag that looked cheerful yet could handle produce and impulse buys. The result is this Mint Meadow Granny Square Tote—a sturdy box-bottom carryall covered in daisy sunburst squares that has become my everyday go-to.
About This Crochet Tote Bag Pattern
This granny square tote creates a roomy box-bottom bag that measures 12 × 12 × 4 inches deep with 9-inch straps for comfortable shoulder carrying. You build it from 27 cheerful daisy sunburst squares arranged in a checkerboard across five panels.
Construction stays simple. Make all the squares first—they travel beautifully in a project bag. Seam the panels, add a sturdy border, attach the straps, and finish with a button closure. Skill level sits at intermediate. If you already know basic stitches, rounds, color changes, and seaming, you are ready. Expect 12 to 18 hours total depending on your pace.
Materials You’ll Need
Gather everything before you start so the project moves smoothly.
Yarn
Use worsted weight cotton for crisp stitch definition and a body that holds its shape. Firm, low-stretch cotton works best.
- Sage Green: about 450 yards / 415 meters
- Cream or Ivory: about 260 yards / 240 meters
- Mint Green: about 220 yards / 200 meters
- White: about 120 yards / 110 meters
- Mustard: about 40 yards / 37 meters
Paintbox Yarns Cotton Aran, Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, or DROPS Paris all deliver solid results.
Tools and Notions
- 4.0 mm crochet hook (US G/6)
- Tapestry needle for weaving ends and seaming
- One 1¼ inch (3 cm) button
- Optional: lining fabric and plastic canvas base stiffener
Gauge
One finished square equals 4 inches (10 cm) across with a 4.0 mm hook. That works out to roughly 16 double crochet stitches and 8 rounds to 4 inches.
Make a test square before you commit to all 27. Too big? Drop a hook size. Too small? Go up. Matching squares are everything when you start seaming.
Abbreviations
This pattern uses US terms. UK equivalents appear where they differ.
- ch = chain
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet (UK: dc)
- hdc = half double crochet (UK: htr)
- dc = double crochet (UK: tr)
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- MR = magic ring
- sp(s) = space(s)
- beg = beginning
- rep = repeat
- RS/WS = right side / wrong side
- BLO = back loops only
Special Stitches
A few special moves show up often. Here is exactly how to work them.
Petal: Work (sl st, ch 3, 2 dc, ch 3, sl st) all in the same stitch. This creates one daisy petal.
Corner: Work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) all in the same stitch or space. This turns the circle into a square.
2-dc increase: Work 2 dc in the same stitch.
Pattern Notes
Keep these in mind as you work:
- Squares are worked in joined rounds with the right side always facing you.
- Each round begins with a join in the new color. Fasten off and weave ends as you go.
- The beginning ch-3 counts as the first dc throughout unless noted otherwise.
- Block your squares before seaming for the tidiest grid. Trust me—it makes assembly so much easier.
The Daisy Sunburst Square
This is the heart of the tote. You will make 27 squares total: 14 in Colorway A and 13 in Colorway B. Each finished square measures 4 inches (10 cm).
The instructions use role names for colors (Center, Petals, Ring, Background). Exact yarn colors for each colorway appear right after the basic rounds.
Round 1 (Center)
Into a magic ring: ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 11 dc into the ring. Pull closed and sl st to the top of the beg ch-3. (12 dc)
Round 2 (Petals)
Join your petal color in any stitch. Work a Petal in the same stitch, then sl st in the next stitch. Repeat around, working one petal in every other stitch. (6 petals)
Round 3 (Ring)
Fold the petals toward you so you can see Round 1 behind them. Working behind the petals into the Round 1 stitches: join your ring color in any dc, ch 3, dc in the same stitch, then work 2 dc in each stitch around. Sl st to join. (24 dc)
Round 4 (Ring)
Join your next ring color. Ch 3, dc in the same stitch, *dc in the next stitch, 2 dc in the next stitch; rep from * around. Sl st to join. (36 dc)
Round 5 (Corners)
Join your background color. Ch 3, dc in the next 3 stitches, work a Corner in the next stitch, *dc in the next 8 stitches, work a Corner in the next stitch; rep from * twice more, dc in the next 4 stitches. Sl st to join. (48 dc, 4 corners)
Round 6 (Square)
Ch 3, dc in each dc to the corner, work a Corner in each ch-2 corner space, continue around. Sl st to join. Fasten off. (64 dc, 4 corners)
You should now have 16 stitches along each side. That count is magic. Keep it consistent across all 27 squares so the seams and top border line up perfectly.
Two Colorways
The checkerboard effect comes from alternating two colorways. Mustard centers stay the same in both versions.
Colorway A (Make 14)
- Center: Mustard
- Petals: White
- Ring (Round 3): Sage
- Ring (Round 4) and Background: Mint
Colorway B (Make 13)
- Center: Mustard
- Petals: Sage
- Ring (Round 3): Mint
- Ring (Round 4) and Background: Cream
When you arrange these in a checkerboard, the sage-centered squares sit beside cream-centered squares and create that scattered meadow look.
Building the Panels
Once all 27 squares are complete and blocked, sort them into five panels. Alternate colorways in a checkerboard pattern within each panel.
- Front panel: 3 × 3 = 9 squares
- Back panel: 3 × 3 = 9 squares
- Side panels (make 2): 1 × 3 = 3 squares each
- Base panel: 3 × 1 = 3 squares
Joining the Squares
Join squares with right sides facing up using either a flat whipstitch or a sc-join through the back loops. Work through 16 stitches per seam edge. Sew within each panel first before assembling the box. This keeps things manageable and lets you check the layout as you go. Start front and back panels with a Colorway A square in one corner and alternate from there.
Box Assembly
Now turn the flat panels into a three-dimensional bag.
- Attach the base. Sew the base panel to the bottom edges of the front, back, and both side panels to form the box floor.
- Seam the sides. Sew each side panel between the front and back along the vertical edges.
- Turn and shape. Turn the bag right-side out and ease the corners square.
Your bag should now stand on its own. If it feels a little floppy, the border will add stability, and you can always drop in a stiffened base later.
Top Border, Straps, and Button Closure
Top Border
With Sage yarn and right side facing:
Round 1: Join at a top corner and sc evenly around the opening. You are working across 8 square-edges × 16 stitches. (128 sc)
Rounds 2-4: Ch 1, hdc in each stitch around, sl st to join. Fasten off after Round 4. (128 hdc)
Straps (Make 2)
With Sage yarn:
Row 1: Ch 91, sc in the 2nd chain from the hook and across. (90 sc)
Rows 2-7: Ch 1, turn, sc in each stitch across. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. (90 sc)
For extra firmness, work all rows in BLO or fold each strap in half lengthwise and whipstitch the long edges together. Finished strap measures about 22 inches (56 cm).
Button Loop
At the center front of the border, join Sage yarn. Ch 12, sl st to the base to form a loop, then sc around the loop for stability. Fasten off. Sew your button to the center back edge of the border so the loop reaches over to fasten.
Finishing Your Granny Square Tote
Almost done. These final steps pull everything together.
- Attach the straps. Pin straps to the inside of the border, aligned just inside each side seam. Whipstitch securely with several passes. These straps carry weight, so reinforce them well.
- Weave in all ends. Yes, all of them. Take the time now.
- Optional additions: Line the bag with fabric for a polished interior and add a plastic-canvas base for extra structure. Both are completely optional but nice upgrades.
Care Instructions
Cotton yarn is durable, but a little care keeps the tote looking fresh.
- Wash: Hand wash in cool water with mild detergent. Avoid wringing.
- Dry: Press out water in a towel, reshape, and dry flat away from direct heat.
- Avoid: Skip bleach and fabric softener to keep colors true.
- Store: Store stuffed lightly so the box shape holds over time.
Customization Ideas
Want to make this pattern your own? Easy modifications wait for you.
- Bigger tote: Add a column or row of squares to any panel. Each additional square adds about 4 inches (10 cm).
- Crossbody style: Lengthen the straps to your preferred drop before seaming. Just add more chain stitches at the start and work more rows.
- Firmer fabric: Drop to a 3.5 mm hook or hold your yarn doubled. Add a stiffened base for extra structure.
- Different yarn: Substitute any worsted or aran weight yarn. Check gauge carefully. Change hook size until one square measures 4 inches (10 cm), then carry on.
Tips for Success
After making several of these totes, here is what I have learned.
- Block religiously. Blocking squares before assembly makes seaming infinitely easier. Edges line up, corners stay crisp, and future you will thank present you.
- Count your stitches. That 16-stitch-per-side count is crucial. One square off throws everything out of alignment.
- Weave as you go. With five colors and 27 squares you will have a lot of ends. Weaving them as you finish each square keeps the task manageable.
- Reinforce those straps. The straps take all the stress when you carry a loaded bag. Sew them on securely and consider folding them double for extra strength.
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FAQ’s
Can I use acrylic yarn instead of cotton?
You can, but the bag will drape more and may lose structure under weight. Cotton gives better stitch definition and holds the box shape longer. If acrylic is what you have, double the yarn for the base and add a firm lining.
How do I keep the daisy petals looking even?
Work the petal stitches at a consistent height and keep your tension relaxed. Fold the petals forward when you work the ring rounds so they sit neatly on top. Practice a few on scrap yarn first if the motion feels new.
What if my squares end up different sizes?
Check gauge after the first couple of squares and adjust your hook. Lightly block every square to a true 4-inch size before joining. That step alone solves most alignment problems.
Is the button closure necessary?
No, but it keeps the top from gaping when the bag is full. Skip it if you prefer an open tote, or swap in a magnetic snap or zipper if that suits your style better.
How many ends will I really have to weave in?
Quite a few. Five colors and 27 squares add up. Weave ends as you finish each square and the final pile stays manageable instead of soul-crushing.
Can I make the straps longer for a deeper drop?
Absolutely. Add more chains at the start of each strap and work extra rows. Test the drop against your body before sewing them on permanently.
Final Thoughts
There is something deeply satisfying about turning a pile of colorful squares into a functional, beautiful bag. This Mint Meadow Granny Square Tote has become one of my favorite patterns to make and gift. The daisy motifs feel cheerful without tipping into cutesy, and the soft mint-and-sage palette works year-round.
Whether you are heading to the farmer’s market, the beach, or just running errands, this tote has you covered. The box bottom means it sits upright and holds its shape, and the button closure keeps everything secure. Take your time with the squares, embrace the repetition, and before you know it you will have a gorgeous handmade tote ready to show off. Happy crocheting.
