Ever spotted a bag so chic that strangers stop you just to ask where you bought it? This Navy Nautical Floral Bucket Bag delivers exactly that boutique look—with cable texture, cheerful daisy appliques, brass anchor charms, and a real leather strap. You make the whole thing yourself with a hook and some cotton yarn. Ready to create a coastal-vibe accessory that actually holds its shape? Let’s get started.
What Makes This Bucket Bag Stand Out
This project skips the usual floppy crochet bag vibe. You build it from the bottom up in the round, starting with a solid circular base, moving into dense single crochet sides, then shifting into a mock cable texture that looks woven and twisted. No cable needle needed—just front post and back post stitches.
The daisy appliques go on after the body is finished, so you control exactly where they sit. Those little brass anchor charms on the drawstring? They seal the nautical deal without overdoing it. The result feels polished, structured, and ready for summer outings.
IMO, the mock cable is the real star. Once you get the rhythm, it flies.
Skill Level and How Long It Takes
This pattern sits at intermediate to advanced. You need comfort with continuous rounds, post stitches, and putting a few pieces together. If you’ve handled amigurumi and front post double crochet before, you can handle this.
Plan on 14 to 20 hours if you’re an experienced intermediate crocheter. The cable section speeds up once you find the groove. Leave extra time for blocking the daisies, sewing them on, and attaching the hardware.
Finished Size
Your finished bag measures roughly:
- 10 inches wide at the base (25.5 cm)
- 11 inches tall at the center back, not counting drawstring loops (28 cm)
- 13 inches wide at the opening rim (33 cm)
- Base circumference around 31.5 inches (80 cm)
- Opening circumference about 40 inches (101.5 cm)
It gives that classic bucket shape—wider at the bottom, gently narrowing, then flaring open at the top.
Materials You Need
Yarn
Yarn A (Navy): About 550 yards (503 m) of medium weight cotton yarn, 4-ply worsted, in navy blue.
Yarn B (White): About 80 yards (73 m) of medium weight cotton yarn in white. Use it for the drawstring channel, daisy petals, and cord.
Yarn C (Gold/Mustard): About 20 yards (18 m) of medium weight cotton yarn in golden yellow for the daisy centers.
Good options include Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in Navy, White, and Goldenrod; Paintbox Yarns Simply DK Cotton in Sailor Blue, Paper White, and Daffodil Yellow; or Drops Paris in Navy Blue, Off White, and Yellow. Stick with smooth, 4-ply worsted or heavy DK cotton. Fuzzy yarns hide the cable and daisy details. Cotton beats acrylic here because it holds shape better.
Hooks
US size G-6 (4.0 mm) for the main body and daisies.
US size H-8 (5.0 mm) only for the drawstring cord.
Notions
- Stitch markers (at least 4)
- Yarn needle
- Scissors
- 2 antique brass anchor charms with jump rings, about 0.75 inch (2 cm) each
- 1 pre-made navy leather or faux-leather adjustable crossbody strap, about 48 inches (122 cm) long with antique brass swivel clasps and D-rings
- 4 antique brass D-rings, 0.75 inch (2 cm)
- 4 antique brass rivets or split rings
- Leather punch or awl
- Stiff non-woven interfacing or craft foam circle, 10 inches (25.5 cm) diameter for base stiffening (optional but recommended)
- Blocking mat and pins
- Spray bottle with water
Gauge
With the G-6 (4.0 mm) hook and Yarn A in single crochet:
18 stitches x 20 rows = 4 inches x 4 inches (10 cm x 10 cm)
Make a swatch: Chain 22. Single crochet in the second chain from the hook and each chain across (21 sc). Turn and work 22 rows total. Block gently with water spray. Measure the center 4 inches.
Gauge matters. Even a half-stitch difference changes the finished size a lot. Check it.
Abbreviations
beg: beginning
BLO: back loop only
BPdc: back post double crochet (yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around the post of the stitch below, yarn over and pull up a loop, then complete as a regular double crochet)
ch: chain
dc: double crochet (yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through two loops twice)
FPdc: front post double crochet (yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch below, yarn over and pull up a loop, then complete as a regular double crochet)
hdc: half double crochet
inc: increase (2 single crochet stitches in the same stitch)
MR: magic ring
pm: place marker
rep: repeat
rnd: round
RS: right side
sc: single crochet (insert hook, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops)
sc2tog: single crochet two together (pull up a loop in each of two stitches, yarn over and pull through all three loops)
sk: skip
sl st: slip stitch
sp: space
st(s): stitch(es)
WS: wrong side
yo: yarn over
Special Stitches
Front Post Double Crochet (FPdc)
Yarn over. Insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch below. Yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through two loops. Yarn over and pull through the last two. One FPdc done.
Back Post Double Crochet (BPdc)
Yarn over. Insert your hook from back to front to back around the post of the stitch below. Yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through two loops. Yarn over and pull through the last two. One BPdc done.
Cable Panel (worked over 4 stitches)
Skip the next 2 stitches. FPdc around each of the following 2 stitches. Working behind the stitches you just made, FPdc around each of the 2 skipped stitches. One 4-stitch cable cross complete. This cross leans right when viewed from the right side.
It feels tricky at first. After a few repeats, it clicks. Just reach behind those first two post stitches.
Pattern Notes
- Work the bag body in continuous rounds from the bottom up. Do not join rounds unless the pattern says so. Mark the first stitch of each round and move the marker up.
- The base uses joined rounds. From Round 7 onward, switch to continuous spiral rounds.
- The cable is a mock cable made with post stitches—no cable needle.
- Make the daisy motifs separately and sew them on after the body is done.
- Keep the right side facing outward. Work all post stitches with the right side facing.
- For a clean color change to Yarn B on the drawstring channel, finish the last yarn-over of the final stitch of the previous round with Yarn B.
Section 1: The Base
Work the base as a flat circle with joined rounds, increasing every round.
Round 1: With Yarn A and G-6 hook, make a magic ring. Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch). Work 6 sc into the magic ring. Pull tail to close. Join with sl st to first sc. (6 sc)
Round 2: Ch 1. 2 sc in each st around. Join with sl st to first sc. (12 sc)
Round 3: Ch 1. (Sc 1, 2 sc in next st) around. Join. (18 sc)
Round 4: Ch 1. (Sc 2, 2 sc in next st) around. Join. (24 sc)
Round 5: Ch 1. (Sc 3, 2 sc in next st) around. Join. (30 sc)
Round 6: Ch 1. (Sc 4, 2 sc in next st) around. Join. (36 sc)
Round 7: Ch 1. (Sc 5, 2 sc in next st) around. Join. (42 sc)
Round 8: Ch 1. (Sc 6, 2 sc in next st) around. Join. (48 sc)
Round 9: Ch 1. (Sc 7, 2 sc in next st) around. Join. (54 sc)
Round 10: Ch 1. (Sc 8, 2 sc in next st) around. Join. (60 sc)
Round 11: Ch 1. (Sc 9, 2 sc in next st) around. Join. (66 sc)
Round 12: Ch 1. (Sc 10, 2 sc in next st) around. Join. (72 sc)
Round 13: Ch 1. (Sc 11, 2 sc in next st) around. Join. (78 sc)
Round 14: Ch 1. (Sc 12, 2 sc in next st) around. Join. (84 sc)
Checkpoint: After Round 14 the base should measure about 9 to 9.5 inches (23 to 24 cm) across. Too big? Drop a hook size. Too small? Go up a size and restart.
Do not fasten off. Keep going into the sides.
Section 2: Lower Side Body (Rounds 15 to 28)
Stop joining at the start of Round 15 and work in a continuous spiral. Place a marker in the first stitch of Round 15 and move it up each round.
Round 15: Sc in each st around. (84 sc)
Round 16: (Sc 13, 2 sc in next st) around. (90 sc)
Round 17: Sc in each st around. (90 sc)
Round 18: (Sc 14, 2 sc in next st) around. (96 sc)
Round 19: Sc in each st around. (96 sc)
Round 20: (Sc 15, 2 sc in next st) around. (102 sc)
Round 21: Sc in each st around. (102 sc)
Round 22: (Sc 16, 2 sc in next st) around. (108 sc)
Round 23: Sc in each st around. (108 sc)
Round 24: (Sc 17, 2 sc in next st) around. (114 sc)
Round 25: Sc in each st around. (114 sc)
Round 26: (Sc 18, 2 sc in next st) around. (120 sc)
Round 27: Sc in each st around. (120 sc)
Round 28: Sc in each st around. (120 sc)
Checkpoint: After Round 28 the sides should stand about 3 inches (7.5 cm) tall from the base join line with no big flare.
Section 3: Transition to Double Crochet Cable Texture (Round 29)
This round creates the posts you will work around next.
Round 29: Dc in each st around. (120 dc)
It sits a little taller than the single crochet below—that’s normal.
Section 4: Cable Texture Body (Rounds 30 to 50)
Alternate Rib Rounds (FPdc and BPdc) with Cable Cross Rounds.
Round 30 (Rib Round): (FPdc around next dc, BPdc around next dc) around. (120 sts)
Round 31 (Cable Cross Round): Work Cable Panel over every 4 stitches around: (skip 2, FPdc around each of next 2 sts, FPdc around each of the 2 skipped sts) around. (120 sts)
Round 32 (Rib Round): (FPdc around next st, BPdc around next st) around. (120 sts)
Round 33 (Cable Cross Round): (Skip 2, FPdc in each of next 2, FPdc in each of 2 skipped sts) around. (120 sts)
Keep alternating:
Even rounds (34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50) = Rib Round
Odd rounds (35, 37, 39, 41, 43, 45, 47, 49) = Cable Cross Round
Checkpoint: After Round 50 the whole body from base to top measures about 9 to 9.5 inches (23 to 24 cm). The cable section alone is roughly 5.5 to 6 inches (14 to 15 cm).
Section 5: Drawstring Channel (Rounds 51 to 53)
Switch to Yarn B (White) on the last pull-through of the final stitch of Round 50.
Round 51: With Yarn B, sc in each st around, working into the tops of the post stitches. (120 sc)
Round 52 (Eyelet Round): (Sc 3, ch 2, sk 2) around. (24 ch-2 spaces)
Round 53: Sc in each sc around and 2 sc in each ch-2 space around. (120 sc)
Do not cut Yarn B. Move straight to the rim.
Section 6: Rim (Rounds 54 to 56)
Round 54: Sc in each st around. (120 sc)
Round 55: Sc in each st around. (120 sc)
Round 56: Sl st in each st around. Join with sl st to first sl st. Fasten off Yarn B and weave in ends.
The final slip-stitch round gives a neat, slightly rolled top edge.
Section 7: Daisy Appliques (Make 8)
Make 4 for the front and 4 for the back.
Daisy Center
With Yarn C (Gold) and G-6 hook, make a magic ring.
Round 1: Ch 1. 6 sc into magic ring. Pull tail to close. Join with sl st to first sc. Do not fasten off. (6 sc)
Round 2: Ch 1. 2 sc in each st around. Join with sl st. Fasten off Yarn C, leaving a 6-inch tail. (12 sc)
Daisy Petals
Join Yarn B (White) with a standing sc in any stitch of Round 2 of the daisy center.
Petal Round: In each stitch of Round 2 work: (sc 1 in current st, ch 4, sl st in second ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sl st in same st at base of ch).
You get 12 petals. Join with sl st to the first sc. Fasten off Yarn B, leaving a 10-inch tail for sewing.
Finished daisy measures about 2.5 inches (6.5 cm) across.
Placement
Place the daisy band about 4 inches (10 cm) down from the top rim, centered in the cable section. Space 4 daisies evenly across the front half and 4 across the back. With 120 stitches and 8 daisies, space them roughly 15 stitches apart.
Sew each daisy firmly through the center disc with your yarn needle. Use the petal tail to tack down any petals that want to curl.
Section 8: Drawstring Cord
Crocheted Twisted Cord (Recommended)
With Yarn B held double and H-8 hook, chain 120. Sl st in second ch from hook and in each ch across. Fasten off.
This makes a firm, slightly twisted cord about 24 inches (61 cm) long. Make 2 cords.
Attaching Anchor Charms
Open the jump ring on each anchor charm. Thread it through the knotted end of one cord. Close the jump ring. Attach one charm to the lower end of each cord.
Threading the Drawstring
Thread one cord through the eyelet round (Round 52), starting at the left side. Go through every other eyelet (12 of the 24) all the way around and exit at the left again.
Thread the second cord from the right side through the remaining 12 eyelets. Pull both cords at once and the bag closes from both sides. The anchors hang at the front center when closed.
Section 9: Strap Attachment
D-Ring Tabs
Cut 2 strips of navy leather or faux leather, each 1 inch wide by 3 inches long. Fold each strip through a D-ring and align the cut ends. Punch 2 holes through both layers. Insert brass rivets and set them.
Attaching Tabs to Bag
At each side of the bag, pierce 2 holes with the awl about 0.75 inch apart vertically, just below the drawstring channel. Thread the flat end of the D-ring tab from outside to inside and back out through the second hole. Secure the tab flat against the inside with 2 more rivets or heavy thread.
Clip the swivel clasps of your crossbody strap to the two D-rings. Adjust the length as needed.
Section 10: Base Stiffener (Optional)
Cut a circle of stiff interfacing or craft foam about 9.5 inches (24 cm) to match the base. Cover it with scrap fabric if you like and whipstitch the edges. Drop it into the base. It sits snug with no sewing required.
Tips for a Smooth Project
Keep tension even, especially in the cable section. Loose stitches? Drop a hook size. Tight? Go up one.
Block the daisies before sewing so the petals lie flat.
Pin all 8 daisies in place first and check from every angle before you sew.
Post stitches can tire your hands. Set a timer and stretch every 30 minutes. FYI, it really helps.
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You Finished It!
You now have a structured navy bucket bag with rich cable texture, bright daisy accents, and those charming anchor details. It looks store-bought but you made every stitch. Carry it to the market, the beach, or just around town and enjoy the compliments.
This is the kind of project that rewards patience with a bag you’ll actually use. If you make one, share a photo—seeing finished versions always makes the day better. Happy stitching from the Sumara Patterns crew!
