You know that feeling when a crochet bag looks like it took a pro weeks to make, but the stitches are actually pretty friendly? This Ocean Blue Coastal Tote is exactly that kind of project. It has a sturdy herringbone texture, solid handles, and a diagonal line of spiral roses that fade from deep teal to soft white. The finished bag stands up on its own and holds its shape like a champ. Ready to hook one up?
Why This Tote Steals the Show
This bag mixes real structure with a coastal vibe that feels fresh every time you look at it. The herringbone half double crochet creates a dense fabric that keeps its shape without any lining or interfacing. You can add a lining later if you want, but the bag works great right out of the gate.
Those spiral roses? They look fancy but start as simple strips you roll up and sew on. If you can chain and work basic stitches, you can make them. The gradient colors move from dark teal at the top down to white at the bottom corner. It gives the front a polished, designed look that draws the eye right across the panel.
IMO, this is one of those projects that makes people ask, “Wait, you made that?” And you get to smile and say yes.
Skill Level and How Long It Takes
This sits in the advanced beginner to intermediate zone. The main challenge is keeping even tension with the herringbone stitch. It likes to pull a bit tighter than regular half double crochet. Make a small swatch first and you will be fine.
Plan on about 12 to 18 hours for the main bag, depending on how comfortable you are with the stitch. The roses and leaves add another 3 to 5 hours. Not a weekend project, but totally doable over a week or two of evening sessions. Grab your favorite show, a cup of tea, and just keep going.
Finished Measurements
Your completed Ocean Blue Coastal Tote will measure:
- Width at opening: approximately 14 inches / 35.5 cm
- Width at base: approximately 11 inches / 28 cm
- Height (body only): approximately 10 inches / 25.5 cm
- Handle height above opening: approximately 5 inches / 12.5 cm
- Total height including handles: approximately 15 inches / 38 cm
- Depth: approximately 4 inches / 10 cm
Nice everyday size that holds a water bottle, book, and a few extras without feeling bulky.
Materials You Need
Yarn
Main Color (MC): Approximately 650 yards / 595 meters of worsted weight cotton yarn in steel blue
Accent Color A: Approximately 60 yards / 55 meters of worsted weight cotton yarn in dark teal
Accent Color B: Approximately 60 yards / 55 meters of worsted weight cotton yarn in medium teal
Accent Color C: Approximately 40 yards / 37 meters of worsted weight cotton yarn in light mint
Accent Color D: Approximately 30 yards / 27 meters of worsted weight cotton yarn in white
Recommended Yarn Options
- Option 1: Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in Cornflower (MC), Jade (A), Spearmint (B), Mint (C), White (D). This mercerized cotton holds structure beautifully.
- Option 2: Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK used doubled throughout. Slightly softer hand but excellent stitch definition.
- Option 3: WeCrochet Dishie in Clarity (MC) with accent colors in Haze (A), Mint (B and C), and Bare (D). Lovely matte finish and widely available.
Important note: Stick with 100 percent cotton or cotton blend yarn. Avoid acrylic or superwash wool as the bag will lose its structure. Do not substitute with bulkier yarn as it will significantly alter the finished dimensions.
Hooks
US size G-6 / 4.0 mm (for body and handles)
US size F-5 / 3.75 mm (optional, for tighter roses and leaves)
Notions
- Yarn needle for seaming and weaving ends
- Stitch markers (at least 4)
- Scissors
- Pins for blocking and applique placement
- Optional: lining fabric and needle and thread
Gauge and Abbreviations
18 hbhdc x 13 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm, worked in rounds with MC and a US G-6 / 4.0 mm hook, after blocking.
To make a gauge swatch: Chain 22. Work herringbone half double crochet flat for 15 rows. Block flat. Measure the center 4 inches.
Gauge matters here. Wrong gauge changes the finished size and throws off the ratio between the body and handles.
Abbreviations
- beg = beginning
- BLO = back loop only
- ch = chain
- ch-sp = chain space
- dc = double crochet (yarn over, insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops twice)
- hbhdc = herringbone half double crochet (see special stitches below)
- hdc = half double crochet (yarn over, insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops)
- inc = increase (2 hbhdc in same stitch)
- pm = place marker
- rnd = round
- RS = right side
- sc = single crochet (insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over and pull through both loops)
- sk = skip
- sl st = slip stitch
- sp = space
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- WS = wrong side
- yo = yarn over
Special Stitches You Will Use
Herringbone Half Double Crochet (hbhdc)
This is the star of the show. It creates that beautiful diagonal texture across the fabric. Here is how to work it:
Step 1: Yarn over.
Step 2: Insert hook into the next stitch.
Step 3: Yarn over and pull up a loop. Here is where it differs from regular hdc. Instead of leaving three loops on your hook, immediately draw this new loop through the first loop on your hook only. You now have two loops on your hook.
Step 4: Yarn over and draw through both loops on hook. One hbhdc complete.
The twist happens because you pull the first yarn over through immediately. This creates that distinctive diagonal herringbone line. Keep your tension consistent throughout as this stitch naturally pulls tighter than standard half double crochet.
Spiral Rose
Each rose is worked in rows and then rolled into a coil:
Row 1: Ch 36. Sc in second ch from hook, (sc, hdc, dc, dc) in next ch, (sc, hdc, dc, dc) in next ch. Repeat from parentheses across until 1 ch remains. Sc in last ch. Fasten off leaving a 12-inch tail.
To assemble: Starting from one end of the strip, roll the strip tightly on itself, coiling in a spiral. Use the yarn tail to sew through the base several times to secure the coil. The finished rose measures approximately 0.75 inch / 2 cm in diameter.
For gradient roses, hold two strands of different accent colors together while working the strip.
Leaf
Ch 9. Sl st in second ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next 2 ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, sl st in last ch. Working along opposite side of foundation chain: sl st in next st, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next st, sc in next st, sl st in last st. Fasten off. (18 sts total, flat leaf shape)
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
- The bag body is worked in joined rounds throughout. Join each round with a slip stitch to the first stitch of that round. Chain 2 at the beginning of each round counts as the first hbhdc.
- Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round to track the beginning. Move the marker up each round.
- The base is a flat oval. Stitches are worked along both sides of the foundation chain, with increases at each short end to curve the oval.
- When working in the round, all rounds are worked from the right side. Do not turn between rounds.
- Count carefully at the end of each base round. The increases set up your entire body stitch count.
Step by Step Crochet Pattern Instructions
Base
The base is a flat oval worked in joined rounds.
Foundation: Ch 23 with MC and G-6 hook.
Round 1: Starting in the second ch from hook, work 1 hbhdc in each of the next 21 ch. Work 4 hbhdc in the last ch (corner). Rotate work to work along the opposite side of the foundation chain. Work 1 hbhdc in each of the next 20 ch. Work 3 hbhdc in the first ch (corner). Join with sl st to the top of ch-2 from beg. (48 hbhdc)
Round 2: Ch 2 (counts as first hbhdc throughout). Work 1 hbhdc in next 20 sts. Work 2 hbhdc in each of next 4 sts (corner increase). Work 1 hbhdc in next 20 sts. Work 2 hbhdc in each of next 3 sts (corner increase). Join. (56 hbhdc)
Round 3: Ch 2. Work 1 hbhdc in next 20 sts. (Work 2 hbhdc in next st, work 1 hbhdc in next st) 4 times (corner increase). Work 1 hbhdc in next 20 sts. (Work 2 hbhdc in next st, work 1 hbhdc in next st) 3 times. Join. (63 hbhdc)
Round 4: Ch 2. Work 1 hbhdc in next 20 sts. (Work 2 hbhdc in next st, work 1 hbhdc in next 2 sts) 4 times. Work 1 hbhdc in next 20 sts. (Work 2 hbhdc in next st, work 1 hbhdc in next 2 sts) 3 times. Join. (70 hbhdc)
Round 5: Ch 2. Work 1 hbhdc in next 20 sts. (Work 2 hbhdc in next st, work 1 hbhdc in next 3 sts) 4 times. Work 1 hbhdc in next 20 sts. (Work 2 hbhdc in next st, work 1 hbhdc in next 3 sts) 3 times. Join. (77 hbhdc)
Round 6: Ch 2. Work 1 hbhdc in next 20 sts. (Work 2 hbhdc in next st, work 1 hbhdc in next 4 sts) 4 times. Work 1 hbhdc in next 20 sts. (Work 2 hbhdc in next st, work 1 hbhdc in next 4 sts) 3 times. Join. (84 hbhdc)
Checkpoint: After Round 6, your oval base should measure approximately 11 inches / 28 cm long and 4 inches / 10 cm wide. If your base is smaller, your tension is too tight. If larger, your tension is too loose. Adjust hook size before proceeding.
Body
Continue working in joined rounds. Do not increase during the body section. Work all stitches in hbhdc throughout.
Rounds 7 through 30: Ch 2. Work 1 hbhdc in each st around. Join. (84 hbhdc)
Repeat this round 24 times total, working Rounds 7 through 30.
Checkpoint: After Round 30, the body should measure approximately 10 inches / 25.5 cm from the base. The opening circumference should measure approximately 28 inches / 71 cm. The fabric should feel firm and hold its shape when set upright.
Fasten off and weave in end.
Top Edge Finishing
With RS facing and MC, join yarn to any stitch at top opening.
Round 31: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off. (84 sc)
This round stabilizes the top edge for handle attachment and rose placement.
Handles
Make 2 handles.
Handle Strip: With MC and G-6 hook, ch 7.
Row 1: Hbhdc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 2, turn. (6 hbhdc)
Row 2: Hbhdc in each st across. Ch 2, turn. (6 hbhdc)
Repeat Row 2 until handle strip measures 14 inches / 35.5 cm total length from start.
Fasten off, leaving a 24-inch sewing tail.
Fold the strip in half lengthwise so the long edges meet. Using the yarn tail and yarn needle, whipstitch the long edges together firmly to create a rounded tube. The seam runs along the bottom of the handle.
Handle Attachment: Position each handle with the outer edges spaced approximately 3.5 inches / 9 cm apart, centered on the front panel. The opposite handle is placed identically on the back panel.
Pin handle ends to the inside top edge of the bag, tucking the raw ends approximately 1 inch / 2.5 cm down into the top edge. Sew securely through all layers using whipstitch, stitching around all four sides of each handle base. Reinforce with a second pass of stitching.
Spiral Roses
Make the following quantities:
- 3 roses in Color A (dark teal) only
- 4 roses in Color A and Color B held together
- 5 roses in Color B (medium teal) only
- 4 roses in Color B and Color C held together
- 3 roses in Color C (light mint) only
- 2 roses in Color C and Color D held together
- 3 roses in Color D (white) only
Total roses: 24
Leaves
Make approximately 30 leaves total in Colors A and B. Approximately 18 leaves in Color A and 12 leaves in Color B.
Applique Placement
Top Border Row of Roses: Arrange 12 roses evenly along the top opening, spanning both front and back panels, positioned just below the sc finishing round. Begin with 3 Color A roses at the center back, alternating with Color B roses, ending with Color A at the sides. Place one leaf behind each rose, fanning outward. Pin in place before sewing.
Sew each rose and leaf using the yarn tail. Pass the needle through the base of the rose and into the bag fabric several times to secure. Leaves should peek out behind the roses.
Diagonal Stripe of Roses (Front Panel Only): The diagonal stripe begins at the upper left corner of the front panel, just below the top rose border, running diagonally to the lower right corner.
Arrange the remaining 12 roses from upper left to lower right:
- Positions 1 and 2 (upper left): Color A roses
- Positions 3 and 4: Color A and B gradient roses
- Positions 5 and 6: Color B roses
- Positions 7 and 8: Color B and C gradient roses
- Positions 9 and 10: Color C roses
- Position 11: Color C and D gradient rose
- Position 12 (lower right): Color D rose
Space roses approximately 1.25 inches / 3 cm apart center to center. Place 2 leaves behind each rose, alternating leaf colors. Pin the entire arrangement before sewing anything down. Step back and view from a distance to confirm the diagonal line looks straight.
Finishing, Blocking, and Care
Weave in all remaining ends securely.
To block: Wet the finished bag thoroughly in cool water. Gently squeeze out excess water without wringing. Stuff the interior firmly with plastic bags or towels to achieve the final shape. Pin the base flat. Allow to dry completely, 24 to 48 hours.
Once dry, the herringbone stitch fabric will set into a firm structure that holds the bag shape beautifully when filled.
Care Instructions: Hand wash in cool water with mild detergent. Do not machine wash. Do not wring. Lay flat or stuff and reshape while damp. Do not put in dryer. Do not iron directly on roses. Store stuffed with tissue paper to maintain shape.
Size Customization Tips
- To make the bag taller: Continue working even rounds in the body section. Each additional round adds approximately 0.33 inches / 0.8 cm to the height.
- To make the bag wider: Increase the foundation chain by multiples of 2 stitches, adding corresponding increases at each short end of the base oval.
- To make a shallower bag: Begin with a shorter foundation chain. Reducing the chain by 4 stitches reduces the depth by approximately 0.75 inches / 2 cm.
- To add a zippered top: Work Rounds 31 through 33 in sc before adding the zipper. Sew a zipper by hand to the inside of the sc top border before adding roses.
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You Made It!
There you go—your own Ocean Blue Coastal Tote ready for market runs, beach days, or just looking cute on a shelf. The herringbone texture and those little spiral roses make it feel special without any fancy tricks. FYI, once you finish one, you might find yourself planning the next color combo already. Drop a photo if you make one. Happy stitching from the Sumara Patterns crew!