Grab your worsted cotton and a 6 mm hook. This Spring Garden Granny Tote brings soft pastel stripes and an open cream lattice into one roomy market bag that actually holds its shape. You start with a firm oval base, stack cheerful granny clusters in yellow, mint, pink and lavender, then finish with an airy cream section and a scalloped top. Ready to make something that feels like an Easter egg hunt in your grandma’s backyard?
Why This Tote Feels Like Spring in a Bag
The colors stack like tulips in a garden bed. Soft lavender, coral pink, mint green and buttery yellow sit under a cream lattice that lets light peek through. The structure stays firm enough for a farmers-market haul, yet the open mesh keeps it from feeling heavy.
You work the whole bag in the round from the bottom up. No sewing panels together. Just one continuous piece until you add the striped handles. Intermediate skill level means you should know color changes and consistent tension, but nothing here is fancy. Expect 12 to 18 hours, depending on how fast your hands fly.
Finished size lands around 14 inches wide, 10.5 inches tall for the body, and handles that drop about 9 inches. Perfect for groceries, yarn projects, or just looking cute on your shoulder.
Materials You’ll Actually Need
Worsted weight (category 4) cotton or cotton blend gives the best structure. Acrylic alone sags too much.
Yarn amounts:
- Color A (Cream): about 400 yards
- Color B (Lavender): about 150 yards
- Color C (Pink/Coral): about 80 yards
- Color D (Mint Green): about 80 yards
- Color E (Yellow): about 60 yards
Hook: US J/10 (6.0 mm)
Notions:
- Yarn needle
- Scissors
- 4 stitch markers
- Optional metal “Handmade” label and sewing needle
Good yarn picks include Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in Ecru, Lavender, Pink, Mint and Lemon. Paintbox Simply DK held double works if you want a softer feel. Skip pure acrylic. Cotton keeps the bag upright.
Gauge Check (Don’t Skip This)
One granny cluster (3 dc + ch-1) measures about 1.25 inches wide. Four rounds of the pattern equal roughly 2 inches tall. Make a quick 4-round flat swatch, block it, and adjust your hook if needed. Correct gauge keeps the finished bag from turning into a floppy mess.
Abbreviations and Special Stitches
Here’s every abbreviation you’ll meet:
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
hdc = half double crochet
st(s) = stitch(es)
sp(s) = space(s)
ch-sp = chain space
rep = repeat
pm = place marker
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
yo = yarn over
sk = skip
Granny Cluster (granny cl): Work 3 double crochet stitches into the same stitch or space. That group counts as one unit. Always work into the ch-1 space unless the pattern says otherwise.
Shell Stitch: 5 dc in the same stitch or space. Used for the scalloped border.
Granny Lattice: Simply (granny cl, ch 1) in each ch-1 space around. Join with a slip stitch. Repeat for the open mesh look.
Pattern Notes Before You Dive In
The bag is worked in the round the whole way. Only the handles are flat.
When you change colors, pull the new color through the last slip stitch. Carry short color runs loosely inside or cut and rejoin for longer gaps.
Never turn between rounds. Always work into the ch-1 spaces, not the tops of the double crochets.
Stitch counts talk about granny cluster units, not individual stitches. Weave ends as you go—cotton loves to loosen later. Wet blocking is your friend; it opens the lattice and sets the shape.
Step-by-Step Instructions
Base (Flat Oval)
The single-crochet base gives the tote its firm foundation.
Foundation Chain: Using Color A (Cream) and US J/10 hook, ch 25.
Rnd 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc 23 across to last ch. Work 3 sc in last ch (this is the first short end). Rotate work and sc 22 along the opposite side of the foundation chain. Work 2 sc in the same stitch as the first sc of the round (this is the second short end). Join with sl st to first sc. (50 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch here or throughout base). 2 sc in first st, sc 23, 2 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc 22, 2 sc in last st. Join with sl st. (54 sc)
Rnd 3: Ch 1. Sc in first st, 2 sc in next st, sc 23, 2 sc in next st, sc 1, sc 1, 2 sc in next st, sc 23, 2 sc in next st, sc in last st. Join with sl st. (58 sc)
Rnd 4: Ch 1. Sc 2, 2 sc in next st, sc 23, 2 sc in next st, sc 2, sc 2, 2 sc in next st, sc 23, 2 sc in next st, sc 2. Join with sl st. (62 sc)
Rnd 5: Ch 1. Sc 3, 2 sc in next st, sc 23, 2 sc in next st, sc 3, sc 3, 2 sc in next st, sc 23, 2 sc in next st, sc 3. Join with sl st. (66 sc)
Rnd 6: Ch 1. Sc 4, 2 sc in next st, sc 23, 2 sc in next st, sc 4, sc 4, 2 sc in next st, sc 23, 2 sc in next st, sc 4. Join with sl st. (70 sc)
Rnd 7: Ch 1. Sc 5, 2 sc in next st, sc 23, 2 sc in next st, sc 5, sc 5, 2 sc in next st, sc 23, 2 sc in next st, sc 5. Join with sl st. (74 sc)
Checkpoint: Your flat oval should measure approximately 9 inches (23 cm) long and 5 inches (12.5 cm) wide. It should lie perfectly flat without cupping or ruffling. If it cups, go up a hook size. If it ruffles, go down a hook size.
Do not fasten off.
Transition to Granny Cluster Pattern
Set-Up Round: Still using Color A (Cream). Ch 3 (counts as first dc of first cluster now and throughout). Work 2 more dc in the same stitch as ch-3 (first granny cl complete). Ch 1. Sk 2 sts. (Granny cl in next st, ch 1, sk 2 sts) around. Join with sl st to top of ch-3. (25 granny cl)
The 74 sc from the base divides into 24 complete groups of 3 (72 sts) plus 2 sts. Work 23 normal repeats of (granny cl, ch 1, sk 2), then at the end work 1 final granny cl into each of the last 2 sts, ch 1, join. This gives 25 granny clusters with 25 ch-1 spaces.
Lower Body: Striped Granny Cluster Section
Ten rounds of granny clusters in this stripe order:
Rounds 1–2: Color E (Yellow)
Rounds 3–4: Color D (Mint Green)
Rounds 5–6: Color C (Pink/Coral)
Rounds 7–10: Color B (Lavender)
Looking at the finished bag from bottom to top, your stripes will read: yellow, mint, pink, lavender.
To join a new color: At the end of the last round of a color, draw the new color through the final sl st join. Continue without turning.
Lower Body Round 1 (Color E, Yellow): Join Color E with sl st in any ch-1 sp. Ch 3, 2 dc in same sp (first granny cl). Ch 1. (Granny cl in next ch-1 sp, ch 1) around. Join with sl st to top of ch-3. (25 granny cl)
Lower Body Round 2 (Color E, Yellow): Sl st into first ch-1 sp. Ch 3, 2 dc in same sp. Ch 1. (Granny cl in next ch-1 sp, ch 1) around. Join with sl st to top of ch-3. (25 granny cl)
Lower Body Round 3 (Color D, Mint): Join Color D. Sl st into first ch-1 sp. Ch 3, 2 dc in same sp. Ch 1. (Granny cl in next ch-1 sp, ch 1) around. Join with sl st to top of ch-3. (25 granny cl)
Lower Body Round 4 (Color D, Mint): Sl st into first ch-1 sp. Ch 3, 2 dc in same sp. Ch 1. (Granny cl in next ch-1 sp, ch 1) around. Join with sl st to top of ch-3. (25 granny cl)
Lower Body Round 5 (Color C, Pink): Join Color C. Sl st into first ch-1 sp. Ch 3, 2 dc in same sp. Ch 1. (Granny cl in next ch-1 sp, ch 1) around. Join with sl st to top of ch-3. (25 granny cl)
Lower Body Round 6 (Color C, Pink): Sl st into first ch-1 sp. Ch 3, 2 dc in same sp. Ch 1. (Granny cl in next ch-1 sp, ch 1) around. Join with sl st to top of ch-3. (25 granny cl)
Lower Body Rounds 7 to 10 (Color B, Lavender): Join Color B. Repeat the same granny cluster round 4 times total. Each round: Sl st into first ch-1 sp. Ch 3, 2 dc in same sp. Ch 1. (Granny cl in next ch-1 sp, ch 1) around. Join with sl st to top of ch-3. (25 granny cl per round)
Checkpoint: After 10 rounds of striped lower body, the bag body from the base top should measure approximately 4.5 to 5 inches (11.5 to 12.5 cm) tall. Your stripes should be even and the bag should sit flat with a consistent oval circumference.
Fasten off Color B. Join Color A.
Upper Body: Cream Granny Lattice Section
Upper Body Rounds 1 through 14 (Color A, Cream):
Round 1: Join Color A in any ch-1 sp. Ch 3, 2 dc in same sp. Ch 1. (Granny cl in next ch-1 sp, ch 1) around. Join with sl st to top of ch-3. (25 granny cl)
Repeat this exact round 13 more times for a total of 14 rounds.
Checkpoint: After all 14 cream rounds, your total bag height from base top should be approximately 10.5 inches (26.5 cm). The cream section should look airy and open, with clusters stacking in neat vertical columns.
Scalloped Top Border
Border Round 1 (Color B, Lavender): Join Color B in any ch-1 sp. Ch 1 (does not count as st). Work 2 sc in each ch-1 sp around. Join with sl st to first sc. (50 sc)
Border Round 2 (Color B, Lavender): Ch 1. Sc in each sc around, increasing 2 sc evenly spaced (1 increase at each short end of oval). Join with sl st to first sc. (52 sc)
Border Round 3 (Color C, Pink/Coral): Join Color C. Ch 1. (Sk 1 sc, 5 dc in next sc, sk 1 sc, sc in next sc) 13 times around. Join with sl st to first sc. (13 shells)
Border Round 4 (Color B, Lavender): Join Color B. Ch 1. Working behind the shells, sl st into each sc of Round 2 (the sc between shells) to create a clean lavender outline behind the scallops. Join with sl st. Fasten off.
This final round is optional but creates that beautiful lavender line visible just below the pink shells.
Handles (Make 2)
Each handle is worked flat as a long strip of single crochet in a matching stripe sequence.
Foundation: Using Color B (Lavender) and US J/10 hook, ch 7.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (6 sc)
Rows 2 to 4 (Color B, Lavender): Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn at end of each row. (6 sc per row)
Rows 5 to 6 (Color C, Pink): Join Color C. Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn. (6 sc per row)
Rows 7 to 8 (Color D, Mint): Join Color D. Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn. (6 sc per row)
Rows 9 to 10 (Color E, Yellow): Join Color E. Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn. (6 sc per row)
Rows 11 to 12 (Color D, Mint): Join Color D. Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn. (6 sc per row)
Rows 13 to 14 (Color C, Pink): Join Color C. Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn. (6 sc per row)
Rows 15 to 20 (Color B, Lavender): Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn. (6 sc per row)
Continue repeating the stripe sequence (Lavender, Pink, Mint, Yellow, Mint, Pink, Lavender) until the handle measures approximately 26 inches (66 cm) total length. Fasten off.
Handle Assembly: Fold the handle strip in half lengthwise with wrong sides together. Using your yarn needle and Color B, whip stitch the long edges together along both sides.
Handle Attachment: Position each handle so the ends are approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm) apart on each side of the bag top opening. Center one handle on the front panel and one on the back. Sew each handle end to the inside of the top border, stitching through multiple layers securely. Work a box stitch pattern for durability: stitch around the perimeter of the handle end, then an X across the middle.
Finishing and Blocking
Weave in every end with a tapestry needle, working a figure-eight path through the back of the stitches. Trim close.
If you want a metal label, stitch it to the front center about 1 inch above the stripe-to-cream join.
Wet block: soak the bag in cool water for 15 minutes, squeeze gently (no wringing), stuff with plastic bags or a towel to keep the oval shape, pin the base flat, and let it dry 24–48 hours. The lattice opens up and the bag holds its form.
Size Tweaks and Care
Want it smaller? Start with ch 19 and skip two base increase rounds. You’ll get about 11 inches wide. Need more height? Add extra cream lattice rounds—two rounds equal roughly one extra inch.
A fabric lining is smart if you carry small items; the open mesh can let coins slip through.
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, lay flat to dry. Never wring or machine dry. If it loses shape later, re-stuff and air dry again.
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You Just Made a Garden in a Bag
There it is—a cheerful, sturdy tote that looks like spring and works hard all year. The stripes, the open cream mesh, the soft scallops—everything comes together in a bag you’ll reach for again and again. Share a photo when you finish; seeing your versions is the best part of free patterns. Happy stitching from Sumara Patterns!
