This two-piece festival set pairs a flattering halter crop top with high-waist shorts that sport cool corset-style lace-up panels on the sides. You work flat pieces and seam them together, so no fancy in-the-round shaping shows up here. The golden yellow trim and little sun appliqué give it personality without extra hassle.
This intermediate pattern needs patience and accurate gauge. If you have made a few garments and feel okay with increases, decreases, and basic seaming, you can handle it. Let me walk you through every step.
What Makes This Set Stand Out
This coordinating set works perfectly for summer festivals, beach days, or just feeling cute in your backyard. The halter top uses two triangle panels that form a flattering V-neckline at the bottom hem. The shorts sit at a comfortable high waist with that eye-catching lace-up detail on both sides.
The whole set comes together in warm terracotta orange with pops of golden yellow. That little crocheted sun on the right cup? You work it separately as an appliqué and stitch it on at the end. Easy to move or skip if you want.
Total project time runs between 22 and 33 hours depending on your speed. The halter top takes roughly 8 to 12 hours, the shorts need 12 to 18 hours, and finishing adds another 2 to 3 hours.
Materials You Need
Yarn Requirements:
Yarn A (Main Color): Terracotta orange, worsted weight (Category 4), about 600 yards or 549 meters for the complete set
Yarn B (Contrast Color): Golden yellow, worsted weight (Category 4), about 150 yards or 137 meters for trim, lacing, ties, and sun appliqué
Yarn Suggestions:
Lion Brand Pound of Love in Terracotta and Mustard works great here. It shows stitches clearly and holds shape well in garments. Paintbox Yarns Simply DK worked doubled gives a softer drape. Cascade 220 Superwash in Ginger and Sunflower offers nice wool definition with easy machine washing.
Pick any worsted weight yarn that hits gauge. For festival or beachwear, acrylic or cotton-acrylic blends handle moisture and wash easily.
Hooks:
US Size J / 6.0 mm for main fabric
US Size I / 5.5 mm for trim and appliqué (optional, for tighter trim)
Additional Materials:
- Stitch markers (at least 8)
- Yarn needle for seaming and weaving ends
- Scissors
- Rust-proof pins for blocking
- 8 small gold or amber beads (optional, for bottom of lacing ties on shorts)
- Measuring tape
Gauge and Finished Measurements
18 single crochet (sc) by 22 rows equals 4 inches by 4 inches (10 cm by 10 cm)
Measure in single crochet worked flat, blocked.
Gauge is mandatory here. These garments fit close. Even a half-stitch difference per inch changes your finished size a lot. Work a swatch of at least 20 stitches by 24 rows, block it, and measure from the center.
This pattern fits size Small/Medium (US size 4/6) with customization notes later.
Halter Top:
Bust circumference: 32 to 34 inches (81 to 86 cm)
Length from neckline to hem: 10 inches (25.5 cm)
Width across widest point laid flat: 16 inches (40.5 cm)
Shorts:
Hip circumference: 34 to 36 inches (86 to 91 cm)
Waistband circumference unstretched: 26 inches (66 cm)
Rise from waistband to crotch: 10 inches (25.5 cm)
Inseam: 3 inches (7.5 cm)
Total length from waistband to hem: 13 inches (33 cm)
Abbreviations and Special Stitches
Here is every abbreviation you will see. Bookmark this if garment crochet feels new.
beg = beginning
BLO = back loop only (hook through just the back loop)
ch = chain (yarn over, pull through loop on hook)
cont = continue
dc = double crochet (yarn over, insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops)
dec = decrease
FLO = front loop only
hdc = half double crochet
inc = increase (work 2 sc in the same stitch)
MC = main color (Yarn A, terracotta orange)
CC = contrast color (Yarn B, golden yellow)
rem = remaining
rep = repeat
rnd = round
RS = right side
sc = single crochet (insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through both loops)
sc2tog = single crochet two together (insert hook in next st, pull up loop, insert hook in following st, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops)
sk = skip
sl st = slip stitch
sp = space
st(s) = stitch(es)
t-ch = turning chain
WS = wrong side
yo = yarn over
Special Stitches
Surface Slip Stitch (for lace-up channels on shorts sides):
With RS facing, insert hook from front to back through the fabric at the marked spot. Pull up a loop of yarn from behind. Insert hook into the next stitch or row end to the right. Pull up another loop and draw it through the loop on your hook. Keep going along the surface for a raised chain-like line. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Shell Edging (for hem of top and waist/leg edges of shorts):
Skip 1 stitch, work 5 dc in next stitch, skip 1 stitch, slip stitch in next stitch. This 4-stitch repeat needs stitch counts divisible by 4.
Important Pattern Notes
Read these before you start. They save headaches later.
- The halter top uses two mirrored triangle panels. Each works flat from the bottom point upward with increases. The panels join at the center front seam.
- The shorts use two identical panels from waistband to hem. Side edges stay partially open for corset lacing. Only the inseam and crotch curve get seamed.
- Work with MC (terracotta orange) unless the pattern says CC (golden yellow).
- Turning chains: At the start of every row, chain 1 and turn. This chain 1 does not count as a stitch. Work the first stitch of every row in the first stitch at the base of the turning chain.
- Mark the right side with a stitch marker from the first row. Always work trim rows with the right side facing out.
- The side lace-up panels come from leaving a 3-inch opening on each side edge instead of seaming those parts closed.
- Block all pieces before final seaming. Crochet fabric can grow or shrink up to 10 percent during blocking.
Part One: Halter Top Instructions
The halter top has two mirror-image triangle panels called the Right Cup and Left Cup. Work them separately, then seam them at the center front.
Right Cup Panel
This panel works flat from the bottom point upward. Increases happen only along the outer side edge. The inner edge stays straight and becomes your center front seam.
Foundation: With MC and size J hook, ch 3.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, turn. (2 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc to end, turn. (3 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc to last st, 2 sc in last st, turn. (4 sc)
Row 4: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc to end, turn. (5 sc)
Row 5: Ch 1, sc to last st, 2 sc in last st, turn. (6 sc)
Row 6: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc to end, turn. (7 sc)
Row 7: Ch 1, sc to last st, 2 sc in last st, turn. (8 sc)
Row 8: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc to end, turn. (9 sc)
Row 9: Ch 1, sc to last st, 2 sc in last st, turn. (10 sc)
Row 10: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc to end, turn. (11 sc)
Row 11: Ch 1, sc to last st, 2 sc in last st, turn. (12 sc)
Row 12: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc to end, turn. (13 sc)
Row 13: Ch 1, sc to last st, 2 sc in last st, turn. (14 sc)
Row 14: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc to end, turn. (15 sc)
Row 15: Ch 1, sc to last st, 2 sc in last st, turn. (16 sc)
Row 16: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc to end, turn. (17 sc)
Row 17: Ch 1, sc to last st, 2 sc in last st, turn. (18 sc)
Row 18: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc to end, turn. (19 sc)
Row 19: Ch 1, sc to last st, 2 sc in last st, turn. (20 sc)
Row 20: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc to end, turn. (21 sc)
Row 21: Ch 1, sc to last st, 2 sc in last st, turn. (22 sc)
Row 22: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc to end, turn. (23 sc)
Row 23: Ch 1, sc to last st, 2 sc in last st, turn. (24 sc)
Row 24: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc to end, turn. (25 sc)
Row 25: Ch 1, sc to last st, 2 sc in last st, turn. (26 sc)
Row 26: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc to end, turn. (27 sc)
Row 27: Ch 1, sc to last st, 2 sc in last st, turn. (28 sc)
Row 28: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc to end, turn. (29 sc)
Row 29: Ch 1, sc to last st, 2 sc in last st, turn. (30 sc)
Row 30: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc to end, turn. (31 sc)
Row 31: Ch 1, sc to last st, 2 sc in last st, turn. (32 sc)
Row 32: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc to end, turn. (33 sc)
Row 33: Ch 1, sc to last st, 2 sc in last st, turn. (34 sc)
Row 34: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc to end, turn. (35 sc)
Row 35: Ch 1, sc to last st, 2 sc in last st, turn. (36 sc)
Checkpoint: After Row 35, your Right Cup panel should measure about 6.5 inches (16.5 cm) wide and 6.5 inches (16.5 cm) tall along the outer angled edge.
Now work straight with no more increases for the top band section:
Rows 36 through 40: Ch 1, sc across all 36 sts, turn. (36 sc each row)
Top Shaping with decreases on the outer edge only:
Row 41: Ch 1, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog, turn. (35 sc)
Row 42: Ch 1, sc across, turn. (35 sc)
Row 43: Ch 1, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog, turn. (34 sc)
Row 44: Ch 1, sc across, turn. (34 sc)
Row 45: Ch 1, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog, turn. (33 sc)
Row 46: Ch 1, sc across, turn. (33 sc)
Row 47: Ch 1, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog, turn. (32 sc)
Row 48: Ch 1, sc across, turn. (32 sc)
Fasten off MC, leaving a 20-inch (51 cm) tail for seaming.
Left Cup Panel
Work exactly as the Right Cup Panel through all 48 rows, but mirror the increases and decreases.
For the Left Cup, increases happen at the END of odd rows and BEGINNING of even rows:
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, turn. (2 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, sc to last st, 2 sc in last st, turn. (3 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc to end, turn. (4 sc)
Continue this mirrored increase pattern through Row 35 (ending with 36 sc), then work Rows 36 through 40 straight.
For Rows 41 through 48, work decreases at the BEGINNING of odd rows:
Row 41: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc to end, turn. (35 sc)
Row 42: Ch 1, sc across, turn. (35 sc)
Row 43: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc to end, turn. (34 sc)
Row 44: Ch 1, sc across, turn. (34 sc)
Row 45: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc to end, turn. (33 sc)
Row 46: Ch 1, sc across, turn. (33 sc)
Row 47: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc to end, turn. (32 sc)
Row 48: Ch 1, sc across, turn. (32 sc)
Fasten off MC, leaving a 20-inch (51 cm) tail for seaming.
Joining the Cup Panels
Lay the Right Cup and Left Cup with right sides together. The straight inner edges are your seam edges. Using the long tail from the Right Cup, whipstitch through both inner edges from the bottom point upward to the top. The seam runs about 6.5 inches (16.5 cm).
Turn right side out. The two triangle points meet at the center bottom hem.
Top Trim and Neckline Edge
With RS facing and CC, join yarn at the right side top outer corner.
Trim Row 1: Ch 1, sc evenly across the top edge of both cups, working about 1 sc per row end, for a total of 64 sc across. Turn. (64 sc)
Trim Row 2: Ch 1, sc across all 64 sts. Turn. (64 sc)
Fasten off CC.
Neckline Ties
Right Tie: With CC, ch 70 (about 13 inches), sl st to the right outer top corner. Fasten off.
Left Tie: With CC, ch 70, sl st to the left outer top corner. Fasten off.
Back Ties
With CC, ch 120 (about 22 inches). Join one end with a sl st to the right side edge at the midpoint of the angled edge (about at Row 22). Attach the other end to the left side edge at the same level. The excess chain on each side becomes the bow tie ends.
Bottom Hem Trim
With RS facing and CC, join yarn at the bottom left edge of the completed top.
Work 1 sc trim row along the entire bottom hem, about 32 sts along the V-shaped edge. Adjust to nearest multiple of 4.
Shell Edging Row: Ch 3, (sk 1 st, 5 dc in next st, sk 1 st, sl st in next st) 8 times. Fasten off CC.
Part Two: Sun Appliqué
Round 1: With CC, make a magic ring, ch 1, work 6 sc into the ring, sl st to first sc to join. (6 sc)
Round 2: Ch 1, work 2 sc in each sc around, sl st to first sc to join. (12 sc)
Round 3: Ch 1, (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) 6 times, sl st to first sc to join. (18 sc)
Round 4 (rays): Ch 1, (sc in next sc, ch 3, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in next ch, sl st in same sc at base) 18 times, sl st to first sc to join. Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch (30 cm) tail.
Block the appliqué flat. Position it on the Right Cup, about 3 inches (7.5 cm) up from the bottom hem tip. Whipstitch around the outer edge of the center circle. Leave the rays free for dimension.
Part Three: Shorts Instructions
Shorts Front Panel (make 1)
With MC and size J hook, ch 79.
Foundation Row: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (78 sc)
Rows 1 through 8: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn. (78 sc each row)
This sets up your waistband section.
Rows 9 through 30: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn. (78 sc each row)
Checkpoint: After Row 30, your panel should measure about 5.5 inches (14 cm) from the foundation edge.
Crotch Shaping:
Row 31: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog, turn. (76 sc)
Row 32: Ch 1, sc across, turn. (76 sc)
Row 33: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog, turn. (74 sc)
Row 34: Ch 1, sc across, turn. (74 sc)
Row 35: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog, turn. (72 sc)
Row 36: Ch 1, sc across, turn. (72 sc)
Row 37: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog, turn. (70 sc)
Row 38: Ch 1, sc across, turn. (70 sc)
Row 39: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog, turn. (68 sc)
Row 40: Ch 1, sc across, turn. (68 sc)
Row 41: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog, turn. (66 sc)
Row 42: Ch 1, sc across, turn. (66 sc)
Row 43: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog, turn. (64 sc)
Row 44: Ch 1, sc across, turn. (64 sc)
Inseam/Leg Section:
Rows 45 through 50: Ch 1, sc across, turn. (64 sc each row)
Fasten off MC, leaving a 24-inch (61 cm) tail for seaming.
Shorts Back Panel (make 1)
Work exactly the same as the Shorts Front Panel, all 50 rows.
Seaming the Shorts
Step 1: Crotch Seam. Place Front and Back Panels with right sides together. Whipstitch along the crotch curve, starting at center bottom and seaming across 20 stitches toward the left inseam. Mirror on the other side.
Step 2: Inseam. Join the front panel leg edge to the back panel leg edge for the 6-row inseam section (Rows 45 through 50). This creates about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of inner leg seam at each leg.
Step 3: Side Seams with Lacing Opening. On each side, seam from the waistband downward for 5 inches (12.5 cm), then leave a 3-inch (7.5 cm) opening for lacing, then resume seaming for the remaining length to the leg hem.
Reinforce the edges at the top and bottom of each opening with a sl st using CC.
Corset Lacing
Along both vertical edges of each side opening, work a row of Surface Slip Stitches in CC about 0.5 inch (1.25 cm) from each edge.
Cut 4 lengths of CC yarn, each 36 inches (91 cm) long. Lace through the surface stitch columns in a criss-cross pattern from top to bottom. Tie off at the bottom and add a gold bead to each yarn tail if desired.
Waistband Trim
With RS facing and CC, join yarn at the right back waistband edge.
Trim Row 1: Ch 1, sc evenly around the entire waistband opening. Total should be about 156 sc around. Sl st to first sc to join. (156 sc)
Trim Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, sl st to first sc to join. (156 sc)
Shell Edging Rnd: Ch 3, (sk 1 st, 5 dc in next st, sk 1 st, sl st in next st) 39 times, sl st to base of starting ch 3. Fasten off CC.
Leg Hem Trim
With RS facing and CC, join yarn at the inseam of the right leg opening.
Work 1 sc per stitch around the leg hem, about 64 sc around.
Shell Edging Rnd: Ch 3, (sk 1 st, 5 dc in next st, sk 1 st, sl st in next st) 16 times, sl st to base of starting ch 3. Fasten off CC.
Repeat for the left leg opening.
Part Four: Finishing and Blocking
Wet blocking works best for both pieces.
- Weave in all remaining ends securely, working in at least two directions.
- Fill a basin with lukewarm water. Submerge both pieces completely. Gently press to saturate. Do not wring or twist.
- Press out excess water between clean towels.
- Lay flat on a blocking surface. Pin the halter top to 16 inches (40.5 cm) wide and 10 inches (25.5 cm) long. Pin the shorts to 13 inches (33 cm) long and 17 to 18 inches (43 to 46 cm) wide at hips.
- Allow to dry completely (24 to 48 hours).
- Attach the sun appliqué and add the corset lacing.
Size Customization Tips
To size down to XS (US 0/2): Chain 77 instead of 79 for shorts (76 sc). Work top cup panels through Row 32 instead of Row 35 before straight rows. Reduce ties by 10 chains each.
To size up to Large (US 12/14): Chain 83 instead of 79 for shorts (82 sc). Work top cup panels through Row 39 instead of Row 35. Add 10 chains to ties.
To size up to XL (US 16/18): Chain 87 for shorts (86 sc). Work top cup panels through Row 43 instead of Row 35. Add 20 chains to ties.
General Rule: Every 4 stitches added to the shorts waist adds about 0.9 inch (2.25 cm) to circumference. Every 2 extra rows on top cup panels increases cup width by about 0.5 inch (1.25 cm).
For longer shorts inseam: Add rows at the inseam section before leg hem trim. Every 4 rows adds about 0.75 inch (2 cm).
Care Instructions
For acrylic or acrylic-blend yarn, machine wash on gentle cycle in cold water and lay flat to dry. Do not tumble dry, iron, or dry clean.
For superwash wool, hand wash in cool water with gentle wool wash. Press out excess water in a towel and lay flat to dry.
Store folded flat rather than hung. Avoid long exposure to direct sunlight to keep colors bright.
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- Lavender Dreams Butterfly Halter Top Free Crochet Pattern
- Sage Green Mesh Crochet Cropped Shrug Free Pattern
Wrap-Up
There you have it—your own Sunset Orange Festival Crochet Set ready for sunny days and good times. The lace-up details and that cheerful sun make it feel special without too much extra work. FYI, blocking really does make the difference in how the pieces sit on the body.
Once you finish, wear it proudly. These kinds of projects remind me why crochet stays fun—you end up with something unique that no store sells. Happy stitching from all of us at Sumara Patterns!
