Navy Blue Elegant One Shoulder Top Free Crochet Pattern

Got a skein of navy yarn collecting dust in your stash? Yeah, that pretty one you keep saying you’ll use for something special. This is it. This elegant one-shoulder top with a fitted ribbed body and those 3D floral details cascading over the strap will finally give that yarn the spotlight it deserves.

You’ll start with a pretty scalloped hem, build the bodice up in the round, then crochet each rose, leaf, and tiny flower on its own before sewing them on. It’s not a beginner project, but if you’ve made a couple of garments and played with crochet flowers before, you can handle this. Ready to dive in?

What Makes This Navy Blue One-Shoulder Top Special

This fitted crop top has that cool asymmetrical one-shoulder look. The bodice hugs your body with a soft stretch thanks to the back-loop-only stitches. A scallop shell border at the bottom adds a feminine touch that looks fancy without being fussy.

The real star? The floral applique. Three rolled roses in different sizes sit on the shoulder. Tiny daisy-style flowers, long leaves, trailing vines, and a few sparkly beads fill everything out. You crochet each piece separately, then sew them on. It looks boutique-level when it’s done.

Skill Level: Advanced Intermediate to Advanced

Time Estimate: About 20 to 30 hours for a Small/Medium. The bodice takes 10 to 14 hours. Each big rose needs 45 to 60 minutes. Putting it all together and finishing takes another 2 to 4 hours.

Finished Measurements (Size Small):

  • Chest circumference: 30 inches / 76 cm unstretched (fits 32 to 34 inch bust nicely)
  • Bodice height: 10 inches / 25.5 cm
  • Strap length: about 12 inches / 30.5 cm

Honestly, once you wear it, you’ll wonder why you waited so long to use that navy yarn.

Materials You’ll Need

Grab these before you start so you’re not hunting mid-project.

Yarn: DK weight (CYCA #3 Light) cotton or cotton-blend in navy blue. You’ll need roughly 600 to 700 yards / 550 to 640 meters total.

Cotton works best here. It gives good drape, holds its shape, and shows off every stitch clearly.

Yarn ideas:

  • Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in Navy (4 skeins)
  • Paintbox Yarns Simply DK in Royal Blue or Midnight Blue (5 to 6 skeins)
  • Hobbii Twister Cotton in Navy (4 skeins)

Hooks:

  • US size E-4 / 3.5 mm (for bodice and leaves)
  • US size D-3 / 3.25 mm (for roses and small flowers)

Other stuff:

  • Stitch markers (at least 6)
  • Yarn needle
  • Small rhinestones or seed beads (about 20 to 30)
  • Beading needle and matching thread
  • Scissors
  • Measuring tape
  • Blocking board and T-pins
  • Spray bottle with water
  • Optional: 1/4 inch wide elastic for the hem

That’s everything. No fancy tools required.

Gauge and Why It Matters

Bodice gauge (E-4 / 3.5 mm hook, single crochet through back loop only):

  • 18 stitches = 4 inches / 10 cm
  • 20 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm

Check your gauge. Seriously. For a fitted top like this, even one extra stitch every 4 inches changes the fit a lot. Make your swatch in the round, not flat. Wash and dry it before measuring.

The flowers and leaves are more forgiving, but keep them tight so they don’t look floppy.

Abbreviations and Special Stitches

Here’s every abbreviation you’ll see, explained simply.

blo = back loop only. Look at the top of your stitch. You’ll see two loops. The back one is farthest from you. Stick your hook under just that one.

ch = chain. Yarn over and pull through the loop on your hook.

dc = double crochet. Yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2, yarn over and pull through the last 2.

MC = magic circle (or magic ring). Make an adjustable loop, work stitches into the middle, then pull the tail tight.

sc = single crochet. Insert hook, pull up a loop (2 loops), yarn over and pull through both.

sc2tog = single crochet two together. Insert in next stitch, pull up a loop, insert in the next one, pull up a loop (3 loops), yarn over and pull through all 3.

sk = skip

sl st = slip stitch. Insert hook, yarn over, pull through the stitch and the loop on your hook at the same time.

st(s) = stitch(es)

Special Stitches You’ll Use

Scallop Shell Stitch: Work 5 double crochets all in the same stitch. It makes a rounded fan for the hem.

Back Loop Only Single Crochet (BLO sc): This gives the bodice those nice horizontal ridges. You leave the front loop alone so it sticks out.

Surface Slip Stitch: For the vine details. Hold the yarn behind the fabric, poke your hook through from front to back, grab the yarn, and pull it to the front.

Easy enough once you try them a couple times.

Pattern Notes Before You Start

A few quick tips so you don’t get stuck later:

  1. The bodice is worked in the round. Join each round with a slip stitch. The chain 1 at the start does not count as a stitch.
  2. You make the scallop border first, then work the bodice upward from it. That keeps the bottom edge flat and pretty.
  3. When you work in the back loop only, don’t grab the front loop by accident. It messes up the texture.
  4. All the flowers and leaves are made separately. Pin them in place before you sew anything down.
  5. Add the beads last, one by one by hand.

Got it? Let’s crochet.

Section 1: Scallop Hem Border

This border becomes the bottom edge of your top. You work it as a flat strip, then join it into a circle.

With E-4 / 3.5 mm hook, chain 128.

Border Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (127 sc)

Border Row 2 (scallop row, RS): Ch 1, sc in first st, (skip next 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, skip next 2 sts, sc in next st) 21 times. Do not turn. (21 shells; 127 stitches used)

With right sides facing, fold the strip into a ring. Match the last stitch of Border Row 2 with the first stitch. Slip stitch through both to join.

Checkpoint: You should have a scalloped ring about 28 to 29 inches around. Each shell should fan out nicely.

Section 2: Bodice

Now you work upward from the top of the scallop border using single crochet through the back loop only. That’s what makes the soft ribbed look.

Setup Round: Flip the border so the foundation chain edge faces up. Join yarn with a sl st into the first remaining loop of the foundation chain at the join. Ch 1. Work 1 sc into each remaining foundation chain loop around. Sl st to first sc to join. (127 sc)

Put a stitch marker in the first stitch and move it up every round.

Rnds 1-10: Ch 1, sc blo in each st around, sl st to first st to join. (127 sc)

Checkpoint: You should have about 2 inches above the scallop border with clean horizontal ridges.

Rnds 11-35: Keep going the same way. Ch 1, sc blo in each st around, sl st to first st to join. (127 sc each round)

Checkpoint: Bodice should measure about 7 inches above the scallop.

Rnds 36-37: Ch 1, sc blo in each st around, sl st to first st to join. (127 sc)

Round 37 is the last round of the tube. Fasten off and weave in the end.

Section 3: Upper Edge Finishing

Finish the top edge with one round of regular single crochet (through both loops) so it stays neat and strong.

Join yarn with sl st to any stitch at the top edge.

Upper Edge Round: Ch 1, sc in each st around through both loops, sl st to first sc to join. (127 sc)

Fasten off and weave in the end.

Checkpoint: Total bodice height from the top of the scallop to the upper edge should be about 8 to 9 inches.

Section 4: Shoulder Strap

The strap is worked flat in regular single crochet. It starts at the upper left edge of the bodice.

Lay the bodice flat, right side out. Find the left upper front edge. Count 10 stitches in from the left side seam. That’s where the strap begins.

Strap Row 1 (RS): Join yarn with sl st to the first of these 10 stitches. Ch 1, sc in each of the next 10 sts. Turn. (10 sc)

Strap Rows 2-54 (or until desired length): Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (10 sc)

Keep going until the strap measures 12 inches from where it leaves the bodice, or until it reaches comfortably over your shoulder to the upper back. Try the bodice on before you fasten off.

Strap Attachment: Pin the free end to the upper back edge, about 10 stitches in from the left side seam at the back. Sew it securely with whip stitch or mattress stitch. Weave in all ends.

Section 5: Floral Applique Pieces

You’ll make three large rolled roses, two small accent flowers, several leaves, and some vine chains. Use the smaller D-3 / 3.25 mm hook for the flowers.

Large Rolled Rose (Make 3)

These start as flat strips that you roll up.

With D-3 hook, chain 48.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, (hdc in next 2 ch, dc in next 2 ch, 2 dc in next ch) repeat across, ending with sc in last 2 ch. Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

Start from the end with the smaller stitches and roll the strip tightly. The taller stitches will spiral outward into petals. Use the tail to sew through the base a few times to lock it. Hide the tail inside.

Make three roses in slightly different sizes by changing your tension. Pull tighter for smaller ones, looser for bigger ones.

Small Accent Flower (Make 2)

With D-3 hook, make a magic circle.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, 5 sc into the ring, sl st to first sc to join. (5 sc)

Rnd 2: (Ch 3, 2 dc in same st, ch 3, sl st in same st, sl st in next st) 5 times. Fasten off.

These little five-petal flowers fill the gaps perfectly.

Elongated Leaf (Make 8 to 10)

With E-4 hook, chain 12.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next 2 ch, tr in next 3 ch, dc in next 2 ch, hdc in next ch, 3 sc in last ch. Working down the opposite side of the chain, hdc in next ch, dc in next 2 ch, tr in next 3 ch, dc in next 2 ch, hdc in next ch, sc in last ch. Sl st to first sc to join. Fasten off.

Vine Chains

Chain 20 to 30 stitches and fasten off. Make several in different lengths for trailing details.

Section 6: Putting It All Together

Pin every floral piece to the shoulder strap and upper bodice before you sew anything. Put the three roses as the main focus, with the biggest one in the center of the shoulder. Tuck leaves behind and around them. Drop the small flowers into any empty spots. Let the vine chains trail down the upper bodice on a diagonal.

When you like the look, sew each piece down securely with matching yarn and a yarn needle. Take your time. Good placement is what makes this top special.

Bead Embellishments: Using a beading needle and thread, sew rhinestones or seed beads among the flowers and along the vines. A little sparkle goes a long way.

Blocking: Wet block the finished top by pinning it flat on blocking mats and misting with water. Let it dry fully. This evens out the stitches and helps the shape stay put.

Tips for a Better Result

Tension counts. Keep the bodice stitches even but not tight so you still get some stretch. For the flowers, work tighter so they keep their shape.

Try it on as you go. Fit is everything. Check the bodice before you finish the top edge, and test the strap length before you sew it down.

Don’t rush the flowers. Lay everything out, step back, move things around. That cascading diagonal look is what makes people stop and stare.

IMO, the beads are optional but they give a polished finish that feels expensive.

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Final Thoughts

This navy blue one-shoulder top is a project you’ll remember. The ribbed texture, the sculptural roses, the graceful one-sided design—it all comes together into something you’ll want to wear again and again. Whether you’re making it for a special night out or just because you deserve a pretty handmade piece, enjoy every stitch.

Save this pattern so you can find it later. And if you make one, I’d love to hear how it turned out. Happy crocheting from the Sumara Patterns crew!

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